jinx_removing

I'm just wondering what you all think would be the best solution to my chainline problem. I'm off by a few millimeters and I could adjust the spacers on my rear hub to make it even but it's a flip flop and that would pretty much render one side useless. I could also add new chainring bolts with spacers but I've heard that this is an undesirable thing to do. I also could replace the BB but I have a Shimano UN-73 that is fairly new so I kinda want to stick with that. What do you think?

stevo

1. Since you feel putting spacers on the hub will offset the flop side, I'm presuming youre actually talking about axle spacers. You could put a spacer on the hubbody itself (freewheel spacer on the inside of the cog).

2. When you heard chainring spacers are undesireable, did you ask as to why? (I hate misinformation).

3. few mms? Are you talking a few mms from being operable? Or a few mms from being perfect? If the latter, you're ~probably~ just fine.

HereNT

It wouldn't really be useless, would it?

You'd just have to move the spacers to the other side when you flip it. Yeah, it could be a pain to take the bolts ALL the way off, but since you'd already be taking off the wheel anyways, it wouldn't take more than a minute longer...

jinx_removing

1. Yeah axle spacers. My fault. 8 AM in Boston.

2. The Harris Cyclery webpage: "For budget road-to-fixed conversions, a quick and dirty way to make the chainline work is by spacing the chainwheel inward from the crank spider."

3. A few mm from being operable. Chain is wicked loud when pedaling.

RainmanP

Which way are you off? Are you using a single or double crank? If using a single chainring on a double crank how about moving the chainring to the other side? I have run both fixed gear and ss freewheel with chainring on inside of different double cranks on different bikes. Chainline was always acceptable.
FWIW,
Raymond

familyman

I think he's just saying that it works just fine but it's ugly. Good ol' Sheldon likes bike to be pretty.

captsven

You really need to know how far you are off first. Then you can leave it alone or adjust one way or the other.

Find a straight edge (level, ruler) and measure how far you are off. Lay the straight edge along your chainring and see where it lines up in reference to your cog. Chain should not be on CR or cog.

jinx_removing

Good point. It's the easiest fix and no trip to the LBS. I probably won't be using the freewheel side that much anyway!

Cynikal 

If you are using rear brakes you would also need to redish your wheel. That is not something you can do on the trail. Best bet, find a gear you are happy with, remove the flop, respace and redish the wheel.

legalize_it

ive always had that problem with converted roadies, and never even threaded a freewheel on the flop side. i just live with my hub only being a flip, not a flip-flop. if i try to space in my chainring far enough, then the ring hits the chainstay.

did you even think about cold-setting your rear triangle? that would surely solve the problem.

fixedgearhead

I have 2 bikes that have flip/flop and flip/flip. Both of the sides work when reversed. If you set it up correctly for one side then the other side will work. That is the idea for flip/flop.


fixedgearhead

stevo

"I have 2 bikes that have flip/flop and flip/flip. Both of the sides work when reversed. If you set it up correctly for one side then the other side will work"

Not true if he's playing with axle spacers to achieve proper chainline.

jinx_removing

The plan is to add chainring spacers. I would like to do this in the "cleanest" way possible but replacing the BB (which I assume is the "cleanest" way) is out of the question at this point. I did adjust the axle spacers as a quick fix so I can ride until Saturday when I will ride down to Harris Cyclery (my LBS) and pick up what I need. Thanks for the input.

fixedgearhead

If he is playing with axle spacers he is is trying to adjust it to the improperly spaced b/b length spindle. If he has the appropriate length spindle which will yield a 42mm chain line, then the spacer issue is moot and therefor resolved. If he is trying to jury rig the thing to save himself from buying the appropriate length b/b spindle than all bets are off and he will have to unnecessarily complicate a rather simple approach to the unnecessary chain-lineline issue. Just buy and use the appropriate b/b length spindle and all will be well without resorting to unnecessary convolutions.

fixedgearhead

jinx_removing

Fixedgearhead:

You're right. I realize now that I'm trying too hard to work around this. I should just stop being cheap and replace the BB. I love my bike and although it is not the nicest bike in the world I should only give it the best. The only thing that sucks is I'm going to have a really nice BB lying around now. Oh well.

stevo

jinxie,

which way are you trying to move the chain (i.e., are you needing a longer BB or shorter?)?

jinx_removing

shorter

fixedgearhead

I'm glad you have seen the light. It constantly amazes me the lengths people go to to try to beat the devil. Don't worry about the b/b. You will find another frame you love and then you will be able to use it and be money ahead of the game. Believe me, if I obsessed about all the "extra" parts I have lying around, I would freak out at the money laying there because of projects that, for some reason, didn't work out. Then I get a wild hair up my bottom/bracket and look through the parts bin and, low and behold, there it is, the solution to the parts quandary, and the bike is up and running. Good Luck..


fixedgearhead

braddk

Has anyone ever tried swapping the BB axle to fix chainline. Road BBs are usually asymetrical.

jimv

Absolutely....It's a good first thing to try.

Jim

jfmckenna

So what problem are you having w/ the chain line? A couple mm's is nothing. Are you bending your chainring? I've got big ass spacers on the inside of my sugino double road cranks to get the best possible chainline and it works just fine. Also if you run a 1/8th chain you can get away with a little more slop: some one correct me if I'm wrong.
btw I have a Suzie FF but I don't flip it to ss whats the point no but if you did and used the spacers on the chain ring then all should be close enough for good. I think?

sckot

What's the difference between flip/flop and flip/flip?

Another day of crazy pissing rain here. Blech.

progre-ss

One would believe a flip/flop has both fixed and free while the flip/flip has only fixed on either side. Am I correct? What did I win? I wouldn't mind a Langster...or a workstand and a pro set of tools!

jinx_removing

I would say that was what he meant. The thing I never really understood was that you can thread a freewheel onto fixed threading so why aren't all flip hubs threaded for a lockring on both sides. It just doesn't make any sense to me. Maybe it's a cost issue. If there is a good reason for this I would love it if someone were to enlighten me.

Also, Is it true that you get a little extra leeway with 1/8" chain. 1/32 of and inch can't be that much can it?

jim-bob

I'm not familiar with the distinction. My hub has lockring threads on both sides, and i've always referred to it as 'flip-flop'.