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Candidate for fixed gear conversion - thoughts, advice?

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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Candidate for fixed gear conversion - thoughts, advice?

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Old 04-09-09 | 07:02 PM
  #26  
niteridar
 
Joined: May 2008
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From: sfbay area

Bikes: giant fixed gear and a cannondale road bike

3/32 chainrings should be compatible with 1/8th chains, but 1/8th chains are not compatible with 3/32 cogs. you can either buy a new 1/8th kmz chain...its like 10 bucks at walmart. you can also buy a 3/32 kmz chain from there for like 5 bucks.
or you can replace the cog to a 3/32 for 15 bucks....
if you plan on replacing your cog...i'd be interested in buying it from you if you want to sell it.
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Old 04-09-09 | 07:04 PM
  #27  
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From: Van BC
I don't think you will be able to find a bmx chainring in that six bolt pattern. Just put a 1/8" chain on, it will fit your current chainring.
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Old 04-09-09 | 07:41 PM
  #28  
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From: San Francisco, CA
Originally Posted by soul05
if you plan on replacing your cog...i'd be interested in buying it from you if you want to sell it.
cool, i'll keep that in mind.

Originally Posted by mander
I don't think you will be able to find a bmx chainring in that six bolt pattern. Just put a 1/8" chain on, it will fit your current chainring.
sorry if this is a noob question - i don't have much experience with bmx / 1-piece chainrings. my understanding is that the bolt pattern won't matter if i take off the existing chainring, put the new chainring between the bracket housing and the pedal arm, and fit the peg that comes out of the right pedal arm into that hole for that 1-piece chainrings have. is this incorrect?

i was thinking of getting something like this:



https://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...oducts_id=4327

Last edited by laundromatt; 04-09-09 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 04-09-09 | 10:34 PM
  #29  
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Have you checked how straight your chainline is or is likely to be yet?

It may not matter what chainring/cog you have if your chainline isn't straight, as you'll be in danger of snapping your chainring or throwing your chain and having bad things happen.

If I were you, I'd probably go with a 3/32 cog, as you can always put a 1/8 chain on a 3/32 cog, but you can't do the reverse.

Make sure your chainline is straight (within .5-2mm), or figure out how you can get it straight (spacers, etc.) - https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ch.html#chainline, before spending any more money on parts.
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Old 04-10-09 | 12:08 PM
  #30  
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thanks for the heads-up. i just checked the chainline, and things look straight. I just need to decide whether to go 1/8th chain or 3/32 cog... I guess it'll depend on which one is cheaper route when I hit the local bike shops this weekend.
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Old 04-10-09 | 12:25 PM
  #31  
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How straight is your chainline? You need to make sure that's straight, and/or get a bottom bracket/crank that will make it straight. Once you do that, you should go for a 3/32 cog and call it a day.
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Old 04-11-09 | 12:52 AM
  #32  
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From: San Francisco, CA
a quick update -

i decided to go with the 1/8th chain, because 1) it was cheaper than the cheapest 3/32 cog i could find.

here are some latest pics.

i may chop up the drops and turn them into bullhorns. haven't decided yet.
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IMG_3512_1.JPG (47.0 KB, 12 views)

Last edited by laundromatt; 04-15-09 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 04-17-09 | 01:33 PM
  #33  
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From: San Francisco, CA
hi all,

i have a question about the one-piece crank. can i use any pedals with them, or are there special ones for one piece cranks? the current ones don't allow for any sort of clips or straps, and i would like to swap them out for something that can.

thanks!
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Old 04-17-09 | 02:47 PM
  #34  
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From: RVA
I had a roommate with a bottom bracket like that, and it was BAAAAAAAAAD news. It seems that it was a cheap(er) bike in its day and the BB is not meant to hold up to the stress of fixed gear. The constant forward and backwards stress of accel. and deccel. eventuallly broke the BB so that the pedals acted as if there was a fulcrum in the BB and the see-sawed when you applied force to the pedals. Im sure skidding or trackstanding would only serve to exacerbate the problem. That being said I wouldn't use that frame. Go to your local parts co-op and see if you cant grab a free frame with at least a 168mm square taper BB and decently tight geometry. You'll thank yourself later.
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