I use one because it makes it easier for me to get consistent chain tension before/after taking the back wheel off. I could do without it, but it makes tire changes a little bit less of a hassle.

Can we get some moderator action on this? Christ.

I agree. Someone said you don't need it if you make the bolts tight, but IMO that's exactly why you need it, to get the bolts tight because otherwise the wheel will move while you're turning the bolts as hard as you can.

I just wanted to confirm that this setup is really the most robust for getting the chain tension precise and securing it in that precise position. So far no one has said otherwise except that forward facing horizontal dropouts might be okay with a specially designed chain tug if the dropouts are long enough and horizontal enough to get the right adjustment, but I don't see too many like that.

Method/advantage/disadvantage:

Chaintug/precision adjustment/extra bits to fiddle with or break
Semi-horizonal drop with stops/precision adjustment/sometimes too short for changing gear ratios, stops can break
Semi-h drops or track end, no tugs or stops/easy adjustment/easier to skew wheel placement
Vert-drops with magic ratio/street cred/no adjustibility
Vert-drop with pulley tensioner/wide gear ratio possibility/singlespeed only


Engineering... seriously... What branch? Please god, don't try and tell us mechanical or civil, because a even a rural traffic engineer could figure this stuff out.

Makes sense dude. Thanks

You aren't turning bolts, you're turning nuts. Fail #1.
If you turn the nuts as hard as you can you'll either strip the threads or the outside of the nut. Fail #2.

Clifton: he claims to be an electrical engineer.

That depends on the wrench you're using. The point is that before it gets tight enough not to slip it is tight enough to slip, which means that it slips while you're tightening it. That's why I use chain tugs, so it doesn't slip while I'm turning the nuts on the bolts. Jeeze (some bolts have heads that you turn, I know not the kind on bike wheels, but still, take it easy).

Still not a bolt. Its an axle.

Bigvegan's right, this thread is hilarious: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=303648

There are really only two methods of tensioning a chain.

1) "Walk" method, tighten one nut, shift the wheel back on the dropouts, tighten the other. loosen the first nut, shift the wheel back in the dropouts. Wash rinse repeat. Advantages: simplest method, quickly learned, requires only one wrench of the proper size, will work on fixed wheel bikes. Disadvantage: imprecise in the hands of an amateur, can cause chain binding on a fixed wheel bike.

2) Mechanical Methods. Include, but are not limited to; Surly Tug Nut and other drop-out chain tensioners, derailleur hanger pulley tensioner, built-in dropout tensioner bolts. Advantages: can be used by anyone with patience and a little mechanical knowledge, more precise in the hands of an amateur, consistent results. Disadvantages: requires more tools, costs money, not all types of tensioners will work with all bikes.

Pulley spring tensioners will NOT work with fixed wheel bikes.
Screw type tensioners (Surly Tug Nut, etc) may not be compatible with your dropouts or your axle.


that being said...

makeinu, you're doing it again. Its one thing to be an iconoclast and prove everyone wrong by showing that the world is in fact round. Its an entirely other thing to play the weeping victim while engaging in crappy behavior at THE SAME TIME. Grow up.

I think that trolling is a good thing.
It keeps me on my toes, laughing, and only seems to really bother people who take themselves a bit too seriously. Troll on rocker!

The first BMX bike I ever had was equipped with chain tensioners / horizontal dropouts...
Even as a kid I took 'em off.

Guys, don't be sharing PM content publically, unless you have the OK of all parties involved. PM means private. If you have concerns about a PM, you can forward it to a moderator or Admin, though.

Looks like this thread has hit it's useful limit, too.