differences between chain tensioning methods
 

What are the advantages/disadvantages of the various methods for tensioning chain (magic ratio, idler, etc)?

NO TROLLS ALLOWED :mad:

Horizontal dropouts and track ends work the same way, and you don't need a tensioner if you know what you are doing. Horizontal dropouts typically require fewer brake adjustments (if you are running a rear brake) when you change the position where the wheel is bolted (eg: changing ratio and thus changing chain length) because the pad contacts the rim in nearly the same place. Also, removing a wheel with a fender installed is much easier when you have horizontal dropouts. This is why I will eventually be ordering my custom single speed frame with horizontal dropouts instead of track ends.

Even with very little drivetrain wear, a magic ratio will lose its tension rather quickly.

Some chain tensioners either give too much tension or not enough in certain circumstances. I was trying to setup a bike with vertical dropouts and a chain tensioner, and eventually had to change gear ratios in order for the tensioner to find a sweet spot. Pushing down, not enough teeth were engaged and pushing up caused the chain the bind. This was the Surly chain tensioner. Some people might say that a chain tensioner doesn't look as good.

Also, you're probably not going to find the answer you're looking for in this thread, either.

...Although if someone were to insist to me that they wanted to just run their drivetrains into the ground (which is what you appear to do), I'd recommend either track ends or horizontal dropouts as a tensioning method. The magic gear ratio requires much more frequent replacement of chains (which you hate), and chain tensioners on vertical dropouts will allow the chain to jump teeth eventually when the chain and chainrings are worn out.


ALSO: It may be useful to note that you are looking to find the best way to run your system of running unlubed chains and simply wearing out your drivetrain until it becomes unusable. I say this because if someone finds this thread in a future search, they should be given the context of this discussion and the recommendations presented in it.

I generally use something as a lever, pulling the rear wheel back in the fork ends while I tension the nuts. I find it easier than using the "walking back the wheel" method

Horizontal dropouts or track/fork ends allow you to tension your chain without a derailleur or other type of spring operated chain tensioner device. Bolt your wheel down tight enough and the chaintug is not needed. Eccentric BBs or hubs are another means to adjust chain tension. Thats it. The magic ratio is not a chain tensioning method because there's no way to adjust tension.

Lube your chain and you won't need to think about this as often.

If chain tugs are useless as some of you seem to suggest then why do they exist and why mostly only for track fork ends?

Also, why do I never see completely horizontal dropouts which are perfectly horizontal like track fork ends?

Because they make your brake pads go out of alignment with your rims. Imagine how much of a pain it would be to re-adjust your brakes whenever you needed to retention your chain?

So after supplying the OP with a few good answers, they PM'd me accusing me of trolling. I'm pretty sure that they don't care about any real answers.

You noobs are getting trolled. Come on, this is blatant.

I guess I want to believe that people actually want to support information exchange, but you are right.

OP is a troll.
See: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=528280 among many other trolltastic threads.

^ It's hard to tell if they are a troll or just too damned stubborn.

Intent matters not, result is the same.

Time to get back on track (no pun intended):

It is, especially with OP's other current thread on the irrelevance of chain oil - http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=528280

Stop posting trolls.

For more perspective, it takes OP 5 hours to change a flat: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=527902 (his post on 04-06-09, 08:10 AM )

And here's another dude having the same problem with the same bike:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=527902

So you can stop trolling now.

Wow, a troll thread for sure. :rolleyes:

Stop trolling

Oh makeinu, you're the best! You start with what sounds like an honest question, and slowly drive everyone toward the abyss where madness lies.

As the creator of the most epic of all the bikeforums troll threads, the infamous

"breaking chain without a chain tool" thread, you're my new hero.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=303648

(Seriously people, if you haven't read this one, set aside 10 minutes and go through it, it's probably the funniest thread on the forum, hands down.)

If chain tugs are useless as some of you seem to suggest then why do they exist and why mostly only for track fork ends?

I don't think troll means what you think it means, makeinu.
For example, linking examples of someone's past posts is not trolling. It is providing information to people not familiar with makeinu's history.

How long do you all think this thread will remain open?

I'm interested in seeing someone answer this. I've never used them or had any use for them, so if nothing else from this thread I'd be inclined to find out what the purpose of those is.

An Internet troll, or simply troll in Internet slang, is someone who posts controversial, inflammatory, irrelevant or off-topic messages in an online community, such as an online discussion forum or chat room, with the primary intent of provoking other users into an emotional response or to generally disrupt normal on-topic discussion.

Inflammatory- check
Irrelevant- check
Off-topic- check
Disruptive- check
Emotional/Personal- (via dredging up personal history) check

Yup, no doubt about it you're a troll currently in the act of trolling. No doubt about it at all.