Very stuck cog...
#1
Thread Starter
bike n00b
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4
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From: Monroe, NC
Bikes: Motobecane 29er, 1990 Diamondback Interval, Fongers Champion, Motobecane Fantomcross Uno
Very stuck cog...
I was trying to remove the cog on my Motobecane Messenger today to put on a newer cog, removed the lockring and put the whip on and couldn't budge it no matter how hard I tried. So I put the wheel back on to reverse rotafix it and the chain snapped on me. Haven't had the bike for more than 6 months and it only has 2-300mi on it so far. The lockring was loctited on and I can only assume that the cog is too. Is there any way I can get this off without going through more chains?
Thanks for any help,
John
Thanks for any help,
John
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 185
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From: New Gersey
Bikes: 199X Bicycle Corporation of America Rival Road Bike, 1970s Auto-Mini Junior, 2009 Windsor Hour
What kind of loctite did you use? I'm pretty sure if you are using red loctite, you have to heat it up to loosen its grip.
#3
Thread Starter
bike n00b
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4
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From: Monroe, NC
Bikes: Motobecane 29er, 1990 Diamondback Interval, Fongers Champion, Motobecane Fantomcross Uno
I wasn't the one that applied the loctite. It was that way from the factory. The lockring was on there with red loctite. Thanks for the advice.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Knoxville, TN
Bikes: Schwinn Paramount P15, Fisher Montare, Proteus, Rivendell Quickbeam
If it isn't red loctite, I use the same trick that I use with freewheels. I lean the wheel into a door frame and hold it with my hands. I then take the chainwhip and wrap it on good. Then I put my foot on it and then lightly jump to remove.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: New Gersey
Bikes: 199X Bicycle Corporation of America Rival Road Bike, 1970s Auto-Mini Junior, 2009 Windsor Hour
**************
How can I remove Loctite Threadlockers?
Blue: Can be removed with hand tools
Red: Apply heat to remove
Green: Apply heat to remove
**************
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,401
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Putting Kroil on a red Loctited cog will result in a stuck cog with Kroil on it. If some moron really did red Loctite the cog, it's going to take heat, which will screw up the grease in the hub. So after you heat up the cog and remove it, you get to repack the hub as well. There's no reason to use any kind of Loctite on a cog.
Oh, and if your chain broke from any amount of force you could generate with your arms your chain needed to be replaced anyway.
So far... new cog, new chain, repack hub, smack some moron for using Loctite on a fixed gear.
HTH!
Oh, and if your chain broke from any amount of force you could generate with your arms your chain needed to be replaced anyway.
So far... new cog, new chain, repack hub, smack some moron for using Loctite on a fixed gear.
HTH!
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
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i remember when i tried to take the cog off of my motobecane messenger.
the lockring was no problem but i think i bloodied every single knuckle trying to get the effing cog off. it was the first time i ever attempted this, but i had to wrap rubber bands around the chain whip and handle to get enough coverage to get it to work right. after that, i had a rubber mallet and hit it quite a few times.
but ya, i havent heard anyone one else mention this specific problem, so i thought i was the only one. so to summarize, the chain kept slipping when i was using the chain whip as intended, so i bound the chain whip to the cog so it couldnt slip and gently hammered away
the lockring was no problem but i think i bloodied every single knuckle trying to get the effing cog off. it was the first time i ever attempted this, but i had to wrap rubber bands around the chain whip and handle to get enough coverage to get it to work right. after that, i had a rubber mallet and hit it quite a few times.
but ya, i havent heard anyone one else mention this specific problem, so i thought i was the only one. so to summarize, the chain kept slipping when i was using the chain whip as intended, so i bound the chain whip to the cog so it couldnt slip and gently hammered away
#10
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Judging by the amount of hack mechanics in this thread, I would say they weren't totally unjustified in putting red loctite on the parts. Although it is a little excessive. Either that or you start warrantying a bunch of stripped rear hubs because people don't maintain their ****.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: New Gersey
Bikes: 199X Bicycle Corporation of America Rival Road Bike, 1970s Auto-Mini Junior, 2009 Windsor Hour
Well, yeah, red loctite is fine if you're running a suicide hub but I don't really get why anyone would put loctite on a proper fixed gear hub with threads for both the cog and lockring. In this case, its like the loctite is the answer to a problem that doesn't exist.
#12
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,301
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clamp the cog horizontally in a bench vice. only the teeth should touch the vice and you shouldn't need to really crank on the vice to hold it securely (or you'll be buying a new cog). then you can use the entire diameter of the wheel as a lever. works great.
#15
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,307
Likes: 5,211
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Fit the cog vise onto the cog teeth:

Clamp into bench vise:

Using the wheel for leverage, unscrew the cog from the hub, leaving the cog undamaged in the vise:
#17
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
I'm guessing you didn't even bother reading any of the previous posts. Red loctite is only removeable using heat. That suggestion was given in post #6.




