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anything wrong with using a double crank?
I am considering buying a dura ace double crank on ebay (its only $30!!!) are there any problems using a double crank on a track bike? (chainline etc...)
I have truvativ touros on there now (which have the bosses for other rings) and they are sh*t and the stupid "powerspline" BB is giving out, and is impossible to find (at a halfway decet price) so i need some new cranks and bb and dura ace for 30$ is not bad |
As long as you can get the chainline straight a DA crank is as good/better than most of the track cranks out there.
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Track cranks are made from the same forgings as road cranks; they're just machined slightly differently.
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i thought the thread was gonna be about thishttp://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/i...e50896f1d2.jpg
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Chainline will be a bit trickier and you'll be pushing the rotating weight of the extra chainring... whatever that's worth. But as mentioned, DA stuff will be better quality than most of the other parts out there. At that price, I'd say go for it.
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i so wanted this thread to be about that.
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lol@bart
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that pic makes me dizzy
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Originally Posted by JacoKierkegaard
(Post 8760205)
Chainline will be a bit trickier and you'll be pushing the rotating weight of the extra chainring... whatever that's worth. But as mentioned, DA stuff will be better quality than most of the other parts out there. At that price, I'd say go for it.
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that blue bike would be even better with the cranks in the same position ala' kangaroo bike
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wait... is that possible? Using two drive-side crank arms? Wouldn't you need 2 right side pedals as well, and wouldn't one be likely to unscrew?
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i am using a double crank, i have my outer ring taken off. and a wide bb, to get my chain ring lined up
http://stupidhurts.org//cpg14/albums...s/_MG_3062.jpg |
My set of 600 cranks is working out very well. I moved the outside ring to the inside. You can hardly tell it's supposed to be a road crank set.
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as i've said previously, i've had excellent luck with a campy carbon square taper road double...
centaur crank, matching 111mm centaur BB, both ramped/pinned road rings removed / sold / replaced with a 1/8" miche ring in the outside position. chainline was very close (probably acceptable to most), but i'm a perfectionist and am running a completely 1/8" drivetrain (less flexible), so i added a 1mm spacer behind the rear cog. still plenty of thread engagement on both the cog and the lockring. no chainstay clearance issues at all. thousands of miles on the setup with zero issues. |
Originally Posted by igknighted
(Post 8763206)
wait... is that possible? Using two drive-side crank arms? Wouldn't you need 2 right side pedals as well, and wouldn't one be likely to unscrew?
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as mentioned above, you'll likely have to use a different length BB, or one with an adjustable spindle, to get the chainline straight. you may also encounter clearance issues between the material beyond the pedal thread (especially on longer arms) or on the tabs for the inner ring.
I have a DA 7400 double set up with a sugino messenger ring and a miche BB and it's a nice, light crank, but the clearance is so tight that under hard pedaling the crankarm lightly taps the chainstay. |
Originally Posted by dookie
(Post 8764292)
as i've said previously, i've had excellent luck with a campy carbon square taper road double...
centaur crank, matching 111mm centaur BB, both ramped/pinned road rings removed / sold / replaced with a 1/8" miche ring in the outside position. chainline was very close (probably acceptable to most), but i'm a perfectionist and am running a completely 1/8" drivetrain (less flexible), so i added a 1mm spacer behind the rear cog. still plenty of thread engagement on both the cog and the lockring. no chainstay clearance issues at all. thousands of miles on the setup with zero issues. http://middlepath.gotdns.com/bikes/jamis.jpg http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/5901/img3796.jpg |
Related question, so please excuse the hijack...
If I were looking at Dura Ace road cranks, do I want to stick to an older one that works with a square taper bottom bracket, or is the range of Octolink bottom bracket sizes good enough so that I will be able to get the chainline right? Lots of DA 7700 cranks with Octolink on ebay that are much cheaper than the 'proper' DA track cranks. (and no, I don't like the look of running on the inside ring, would rather have it on the outside and move the whole crank) |
i've got an ultegra octalink double on my girl's bike with the matching bb (109 i think)... chainline matches up with the chainring on the inside.
on mine i've got an 80's superbe pro double with a 111 campagnolo veloce bb, chainline is about 2mm off right now... |
well, I scored the cranks for 30$! but now i need a better chainring (all I have is a rocket ring which I think might be sacrilege to put on a dura ace crank) and an octalink BB (dura ace or ultegra i think). I officially have the upgrade bug! (so far for the pista is a dura ace caliper, dura ace crank, carbon seatpost selle italia flite saddle, dura ace cog and lockring and kmc superlite 1/8th inch chain, now I "need" a nicer stem (mutant or thomson perhaps?) and a good chainring
anybody have suggestions for a good chainring? i like the look of the FSA thicker ones |
Originally Posted by JonnyHK
(Post 8767462)
Related question, so please excuse the hijack...
If I were looking at Dura Ace road cranks, do I want to stick to an older one that works with a square taper bottom bracket, or is the range of Octolink bottom bracket sizes good enough so that I will be able to get the chainline right? |
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