anything wrong with using a double crank?
#1
Thread Starter
the barbarian
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Evanston, IL
Bikes: Independent Fabrications Crown Jewel, Surly Steamroller(FG), Abici Podium (road)
anything wrong with using a double crank?
I am considering buying a dura ace double crank on ebay (its only $30!!!) are there any problems using a double crank on a track bike? (chainline etc...)
I have truvativ touros on there now (which have the bosses for other rings) and they are sh*t and the stupid "powerspline" BB is giving out, and is impossible to find (at a halfway decet price) so i need some new cranks and bb and dura ace for 30$ is not bad
I have truvativ touros on there now (which have the bosses for other rings) and they are sh*t and the stupid "powerspline" BB is giving out, and is impossible to find (at a halfway decet price) so i need some new cranks and bb and dura ace for 30$ is not bad
#5
Fixed-gear roadie
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 0
From: Wilmington, NC
Bikes: 2008 Masi Speciale Fixed
Chainline will be a bit trickier and you'll be pushing the rotating weight of the extra chainring... whatever that's worth. But as mentioned, DA stuff will be better quality than most of the other parts out there. At that price, I'd say go for it.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 0
You take off the inner ring..
#13
Gentlemen.
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 0
From: Chico, CA
Bikes: S-Works e5 Aerotech with 2009 Veloce and a Fulcrum 5s
My set of 600 cranks is working out very well. I moved the outside ring to the inside. You can hardly tell it's supposed to be a road crank set.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 13
as i've said previously, i've had excellent luck with a campy carbon square taper road double...
centaur crank, matching 111mm centaur BB, both ramped/pinned road rings removed / sold / replaced with a 1/8" miche ring in the outside position. chainline was very close (probably acceptable to most), but i'm a perfectionist and am running a completely 1/8" drivetrain (less flexible), so i added a 1mm spacer behind the rear cog. still plenty of thread engagement on both the cog and the lockring. no chainstay clearance issues at all.
thousands of miles on the setup with zero issues.
centaur crank, matching 111mm centaur BB, both ramped/pinned road rings removed / sold / replaced with a 1/8" miche ring in the outside position. chainline was very close (probably acceptable to most), but i'm a perfectionist and am running a completely 1/8" drivetrain (less flexible), so i added a 1mm spacer behind the rear cog. still plenty of thread engagement on both the cog and the lockring. no chainstay clearance issues at all.
thousands of miles on the setup with zero issues.
Last edited by dookie; 04-20-09 at 12:08 PM.
#15
2 possible solutions...use a tandem crank or swap the spindle in a pedal.
__________________
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
#16
out of shape
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,456
Likes: 0
From: va
as mentioned above, you'll likely have to use a different length BB, or one with an adjustable spindle, to get the chainline straight. you may also encounter clearance issues between the material beyond the pedal thread (especially on longer arms) or on the tabs for the inner ring.
I have a DA 7400 double set up with a sugino messenger ring and a miche BB and it's a nice, light crank, but the clearance is so tight that under hard pedaling the crankarm lightly taps the chainstay.
I have a DA 7400 double set up with a sugino messenger ring and a miche BB and it's a nice, light crank, but the clearance is so tight that under hard pedaling the crankarm lightly taps the chainstay.
#17
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,013
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
as i've said previously, i've had excellent luck with a campy carbon square taper road double...
centaur crank, matching 111mm centaur BB, both ramped/pinned road rings removed / sold / replaced with a 1/8" miche ring in the outside position. chainline was very close (probably acceptable to most), but i'm a perfectionist and am running a completely 1/8" drivetrain (less flexible), so i added a 1mm spacer behind the rear cog. still plenty of thread engagement on both the cog and the lockring. no chainstay clearance issues at all.
thousands of miles on the setup with zero issues.

centaur crank, matching 111mm centaur BB, both ramped/pinned road rings removed / sold / replaced with a 1/8" miche ring in the outside position. chainline was very close (probably acceptable to most), but i'm a perfectionist and am running a completely 1/8" drivetrain (less flexible), so i added a 1mm spacer behind the rear cog. still plenty of thread engagement on both the cog and the lockring. no chainstay clearance issues at all.
thousands of miles on the setup with zero issues.

#18
Senior Member


Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,423
Likes: 204
From: London
Bikes: Baum Romano, Brompton S2, Homemade Bamboo!
Related question, so please excuse the hijack...
If I were looking at Dura Ace road cranks, do I want to stick to an older one that works with a square taper bottom bracket, or is the range of Octolink bottom bracket sizes good enough so that I will be able to get the chainline right?
Lots of DA 7700 cranks with Octolink on ebay that are much cheaper than the 'proper' DA track cranks. (and no, I don't like the look of running on the inside ring, would rather have it on the outside and move the whole crank)
If I were looking at Dura Ace road cranks, do I want to stick to an older one that works with a square taper bottom bracket, or is the range of Octolink bottom bracket sizes good enough so that I will be able to get the chainline right?
Lots of DA 7700 cranks with Octolink on ebay that are much cheaper than the 'proper' DA track cranks. (and no, I don't like the look of running on the inside ring, would rather have it on the outside and move the whole crank)
#19
i've got an ultegra octalink double on my girl's bike with the matching bb (109 i think)... chainline matches up with the chainring on the inside.
on mine i've got an 80's superbe pro double with a 111 campagnolo veloce bb, chainline is about 2mm off right now...
on mine i've got an 80's superbe pro double with a 111 campagnolo veloce bb, chainline is about 2mm off right now...
#20
Thread Starter
the barbarian
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Evanston, IL
Bikes: Independent Fabrications Crown Jewel, Surly Steamroller(FG), Abici Podium (road)
well, I scored the cranks for 30$! but now i need a better chainring (all I have is a rocket ring which I think might be sacrilege to put on a dura ace crank) and an octalink BB (dura ace or ultegra i think). I officially have the upgrade bug! (so far for the pista is a dura ace caliper, dura ace crank, carbon seatpost selle italia flite saddle, dura ace cog and lockring and kmc superlite 1/8th inch chain, now I "need" a nicer stem (mutant or thomson perhaps?) and a good chainring
anybody have suggestions for a good chainring? i like the look of the FSA thicker ones
anybody have suggestions for a good chainring? i like the look of the FSA thicker ones
#21
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 30
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Related question, so please excuse the hijack...
If I were looking at Dura Ace road cranks, do I want to stick to an older one that works with a square taper bottom bracket, or is the range of Octolink bottom bracket sizes good enough so that I will be able to get the chainline right?
If I were looking at Dura Ace road cranks, do I want to stick to an older one that works with a square taper bottom bracket, or is the range of Octolink bottom bracket sizes good enough so that I will be able to get the chainline right?





