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Track geometry

Old 05-26-09 | 01:50 AM
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Track geometry

I really like the steep geometry of my EAI Bareknuckle and I would like to get another frame with similar geo. How are the NJS frames in terms of tight geometry? How about Pista Concepts? If I do start looking for an NJS frame what is a truly reasonable price for one, i.e. minus the current fixie tax?
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Old 05-26-09 | 04:43 AM
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I don't think you are going to get any real responses to your questions.

Let me Google that for you
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Old 05-26-09 | 05:45 AM
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Are you looking for tight tire/frame clearance, or steep angles? If the former, be aware that too tight a clearance on a bike designed for smooth tracks can be a problem on a rough street as the fork flexes. I have seen front tire/frame interactions. My Nagasawa comes very close.

You will pay dearly for NJS, although if you're very patient or are lucky enough to fit the most common size(s), you may find a good deal. Stay clear of rusty/dented frames. You may want to consider a semi-custom Panasonic. Use caution when selecting a frame, as the rear spacing varies from the common 120/100 with a 10mm axle rear/9mm front to the 110/100mm NJS requiring an 8mm axle front and rear. This will require additional cost and time sourcing compatible hubs.
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Old 05-26-09 | 08:16 PM
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I'm looking for steep angles and a short wheel base. Thanks for the info on different sized axles. I didn't know that.
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Old 05-26-09 | 08:31 PM
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NP.

BTW, Phil hubs will fit the 100/8mm front off the shelf. Their hub bolts on the front are all 8mm. This can cause issues with NJS frames that are intended for 9mm front axles. A lot of NJS frames have minimal clearance between the fork crown and the tire. If you use a Phil hub on a fork intended for 9mm, you reduce the clearance, potentially causing problems if you use a 23mm tire instead of 19. I ran into that on my Nagasawa. I had to work the fork crown slightly to increase the clearance, or else the tire scraped the crown.

Some on here will hate on NJS, but I have 2 of them, and I can tell you that the ride feels head and shoulders above my other bikes (I own 7 high end bikes total, 4 of which are track, 2 are full carbon road, 1 titanium mtb). The stability and handling at speed is phenomenal. Best of luck in your search.

Oh yeah, beware the 27.0mm seatpost requirement on some NJS frames. You can't force a 27.2, and good ones are hard to come by and not cheap. Last summer, I couldn't get one in a hurry when I needed it, and I did manage to source a Dura Ace directly from the Canadian distributor. It cost me >$300CDN.

Last edited by krusty; 05-26-09 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 05-26-09 | 09:56 PM
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those njs frames are nice and tight and make me feel like im riding it for the very first time every time i get up in one.
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Old 05-26-09 | 10:33 PM
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Bikes: Waterford - Reynolds 853; Shimano 105 Head Set, Velocity Deep V Rims, Shimano Ultegra Crank, Milwaukee Bicycle Co. Front Hub, ENO Adjustable Rear Hub, Michelin Carbon Tires, Dimension Stem, 42/13 Ratio

my rides one of these.... very tight... nice and aggressive...
https://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=1t7laa&s=4
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Old 05-26-09 | 10:37 PM
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Bikes: Presto NJS build, Specialized Allez Pro w/ full Dura Ace and Ksyrium SLs, 1990something Specialized Sirrus

your mom feels nice and tight every time i get up in her....OOOOOOOOO
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Old 05-26-09 | 10:50 PM
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Bikes: Waterford - Reynolds 853; Shimano 105 Head Set, Velocity Deep V Rims, Shimano Ultegra Crank, Milwaukee Bicycle Co. Front Hub, ENO Adjustable Rear Hub, Michelin Carbon Tires, Dimension Stem, 42/13 Ratio

correction.
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Old 05-27-09 | 02:11 AM
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Bikes: 82 Bianchi ECO Pista, Pake, Kilo TT, some *** bmx i found underneath an old house

Vivalo has lost their NJS certification, so their frames can be had on the cheap, relatively speaking. So, no longer NJS, but it is still a Vivalo. Cheaper than going for a 3Rensho, Kalavinka, Makino, etc.
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Old 05-27-09 | 03:08 AM
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your general 80s italian lugged track frames have the usual steep geometry... colnago, guerciotti, pinarello, etc

and keep in mind clearance between the front tire and downtube have absolutely no bearing or indication (to a degree) of how aggressive the geometry on a bike truly is. it's the seattube and headtube angles along w/ the length of the toptube and chainstays that really classify it's geometry and it's potential dexterity when mated w/ a proper track fork.
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