any reason for conventional cog over bolt on?
10-21-09, 10:01 AM
#26
18 dog baby
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i'm in Korea, and the fixed scene has a bit of a lag. getting a bolt-on cog was looking tough (without having it shipped in), so i decided to stay with the conventional set-up for now.
10-21-09, 03:45 PM
#27
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That must be why the chainrings on every bike ever made anywhere keep popping off! I have been looking for a reason for this!
10-21-09, 04:03 PM
#28
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Im surprised no one has mentioned the miche cogs. You use them on standard screw on hubs, you screw on a holder and the cog slips over that, and the lock ring holds it all in place. You dont have to change your hubs and it allows you to only carry one tool (lockring tool) if you want to swap out cogs. Granted, a lockring tool is more of a hassle to carry around than an allen key or whatever you would use for the bolt on. i've been using them for about 2 years and havnt had an issue, but after a while i havnt really found a need to swap out cogs all that often so it's in a way useless for me... the holder is about 10 dollars and is a one time purchase type thing, and the cogs run around 15 a piece, so its not a huge waste of money to try out.
10-21-09, 04:06 PM
#29
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that is why I don't ride or drive cars, busses, plains or trains cuz the bolts be fallin off when they be spinning my brothrs uncles cuz had that happen back when he was in hs and flipd his monte carlo, at was a sweet carlo man,
10-21-09, 04:45 PM
#30
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10-21-09, 04:47 PM
#31
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I use this system on one of my bikes with a normal DuraAce lockring. There have been reports of the tiny amount of play between the cog and the carrier working the lockring loose, but I have found this not to be the case.
Once you buy the carrier, the cogs cost about half as much as a normal cog. After the cog is worn you can flip it around and have an essentially new cog, so you can get double mileage out of each cog. If you flip the cog around, the operating cost of this system is ~25% of using normal cogs. This system is great if you change gears often and/or put a lot of wear and tear on your DT from high mileage or bad weather and want to get the maximum mileage out of each part.
It is also a good solution for someone with partially damaged threads....red loctite the carrier on and you can still change cogs without risk of killing your hub.
The lockring is vital with this system...if the lockring comes loose or falls off, the cog will also fall off the carrier, so make sure your lockring is correctly installed!
Once you buy the carrier, the cogs cost about half as much as a normal cog. After the cog is worn you can flip it around and have an essentially new cog, so you can get double mileage out of each cog. If you flip the cog around, the operating cost of this system is ~25% of using normal cogs. This system is great if you change gears often and/or put a lot of wear and tear on your DT from high mileage or bad weather and want to get the maximum mileage out of each part.
It is also a good solution for someone with partially damaged threads....red loctite the carrier on and you can still change cogs without risk of killing your hub.
The lockring is vital with this system...if the lockring comes loose or falls off, the cog will also fall off the carrier, so make sure your lockring is correctly installed!
Im surprised no one has mentioned the miche cogs. You use them on standard screw on hubs, you screw on a holder and the cog slips over that, and the lock ring holds it all in place. You dont have to change your hubs and it allows you to only carry one tool (lockring tool) if you want to swap out cogs. Granted, a lockring tool is more of a hassle to carry around than an allen key or whatever you would use for the bolt on. i've been using them for about 2 years and havnt had an issue, but after a while i havnt really found a need to swap out cogs all that often so it's in a way useless for me... the holder is about 10 dollars and is a one time purchase type thing, and the cogs run around 15 a piece, so its not a huge waste of money to try out.
