Rookie Chain Question.
#1
Thread Starter
huffy owns
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Pennsylvania.
Bikes: Catrike Expedition, KHS XC 204 mountain bike, Nashbar SS Road Bike
Rookie Chain Question.
I just got my conversion kit, including my single speed chain. I have a master link here... do I need that? Can I just use a chain break tool to size the chain the same way I do with a geared chain? I just didn't want to break the chain (ignoring the master link) only to realize I actually "broke" the chain...
#2
Spawn of Satan

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 765
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From: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
You do not need the masterlink.
Some people use them, some people don't. If you use them it makes cleaning the chain easier if you want to take it off the bike.
Some people think masterlinks are a weak point and can release while riding. This can be very bad on a fixed gear.
What kind of chain (1/8" or 3/32 & brand)? What kind of masterlink?
Some people use them, some people don't. If you use them it makes cleaning the chain easier if you want to take it off the bike.
Some people think masterlinks are a weak point and can release while riding. This can be very bad on a fixed gear.
What kind of chain (1/8" or 3/32 & brand)? What kind of masterlink?
#3
Thread Starter
huffy owns
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 572
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From: Pennsylvania.
Bikes: Catrike Expedition, KHS XC 204 mountain bike, Nashbar SS Road Bike
#4
Spawn of Satan

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
I've never used it.
You can never go wrong with riveting the chain. You will probably have no issues with the masterlink either.
If you are riding brakeless fixed I would rivet, otherwise, I don't think it matters...
You can never go wrong with riveting the chain. You will probably have no issues with the masterlink either.
If you are riding brakeless fixed I would rivet, otherwise, I don't think it matters...
#5
never go wrong? yes, actually, you can go wrong with just reconnecting a pin. If you do so incorrectly (bend the plates, repeatedly pushing the pin, etc.) the link will be very weak and prone to failure. Just the same with masterlinks; user-error will cause failure while correct installation should increase your odds of having a strong chain. One method of connecting the chain is neither stronger nor weaker than the other; Strength is determined by how well you, the user, made the connection.
#6
Thread Starter
huffy owns
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Pennsylvania.
Bikes: Catrike Expedition, KHS XC 204 mountain bike, Nashbar SS Road Bike
I'm not so sure what riveting is and all of that bs, so to keep it simple and to the point - Can I throw the masterlink in my parts box, not use it, and just use my chain break tool to resize the chain accordingly?
I just wasn't sure if I could treat a "single speed" chain in the same manner as I can with the geared chain that came on my bike.
I just wasn't sure if I could treat a "single speed" chain in the same manner as I can with the geared chain that came on my bike.
#7
Banned
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never go wrong? Yes, actually, you can go wrong with just reconnecting a pin. If you do so incorrectly (bend the plates, repeatedly pushing the pin, etc.) the link will be very weak and prone to failure. Just the same with masterlinks; user-error will cause failure while correct installation should increase your odds of having a strong chain. One method of connecting the chain is neither stronger nor weaker than the other; strength is determined by how well you, the user, made the connection.
#8
Thread Starter
huffy owns
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Pennsylvania.
Bikes: Catrike Expedition, KHS XC 204 mountain bike, Nashbar SS Road Bike
So, I got some luck tonight. I put on my single cog on the rear of my 26" hardtail along with my 32T chainring. Well, I got a brand new single speed chain. This chain seemed to require a tensioner. So I put the tensioner on that came with my kit. Well, it skipped about 10 times in the driveway alone, so I knew I had to do something. The tension of the tensioner itself was pretty damn good. I think it was the fact that I'm using a single speed chain, which likes deep toothed cogs, with a tensioner that has small flat teeth on its plastic cog. I could easily see that's what the issue was.
So what I did was is I put the chain on the chainring, but NOT on the rear cog... then I put the chain back together. When I pushed the chain by hand onto the gear. It felt really tight at first, but it felt do-able, so I put a little more pressure on it and BAM... I popped the chain on the rear cog. Keep in mind, I have a typical hardtail diamondback that does not have horizontal dropouts, so this was pretty exciting.
But this got me thinking... what if my chain stretches a bit? After all, it's new. It could stretch a bit, right? Also, what do you guys think of half link chains? I don't mean chains with a half link... but chains made ENTIRELY out of half links. My buddy speaks highly of them, but he's the only one I heard ANYTHING about with half link chains. He's suggesting to me I get a half link chain and that way if my chain stretches to the point where it skips off the cog, that's a sign to me that I can remove a half link on the chain. After all, if there's enough play for it to skip, there's enough play for 1 half link to be removed.
Anyway, any thoughts on this?
P.S. - So far I friggen love SS'ing! There's something about hopping a curb silently and problem-free that puts a smile on my face.
EDIT - Also I hear a LOT about the Rennen Chain Tensioner... but it has a roller... is a roller not... noisy? I just don't see how it would be completely silent...
So what I did was is I put the chain on the chainring, but NOT on the rear cog... then I put the chain back together. When I pushed the chain by hand onto the gear. It felt really tight at first, but it felt do-able, so I put a little more pressure on it and BAM... I popped the chain on the rear cog. Keep in mind, I have a typical hardtail diamondback that does not have horizontal dropouts, so this was pretty exciting.
But this got me thinking... what if my chain stretches a bit? After all, it's new. It could stretch a bit, right? Also, what do you guys think of half link chains? I don't mean chains with a half link... but chains made ENTIRELY out of half links. My buddy speaks highly of them, but he's the only one I heard ANYTHING about with half link chains. He's suggesting to me I get a half link chain and that way if my chain stretches to the point where it skips off the cog, that's a sign to me that I can remove a half link on the chain. After all, if there's enough play for it to skip, there's enough play for 1 half link to be removed.
Anyway, any thoughts on this?
P.S. - So far I friggen love SS'ing! There's something about hopping a curb silently and problem-free that puts a smile on my face.
EDIT - Also I hear a LOT about the Rennen Chain Tensioner... but it has a roller... is a roller not... noisy? I just don't see how it would be completely silent...
Last edited by Roasted; 06-27-09 at 07:49 PM.
#9
Riveting is putting the chain back together and leaving it as one seamless unit, but you'll have to break the chain if you ever want to take it off.
Master links will let you put the chain back together, after you break it and get it to the correct size, and take the chain off without having to break the chain.
I'd go with the master link because the fewer times you have to break the chain, the fewer times you have a chance to mess up the chain. You shouldn't have any worries of a master link coming off, and if you are worried then be sure to have a brake.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
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A 1/8 chain will work with anything in any combination - period. A 3/32 will not work with 1/8 parts. Now, there are arguments that all advancements in chains are first seen on 3/32 because that is by far the largest market with the deepest pockets. Also, and because of market share 3/32 is available everywhere where 1/8 can be a hit or miss affair. Master links are not what one would consider a weak link but in the fixed gear world where losing your chain can be the difference in your status as a living, breathing human being a certain paranoia creeps in. I run 1/8 without a master link and instead of a normal chain break tool I use the ******** expensive Park plier type chain breaker. It save me from myself as it is the as close to automated removal/installation as you are going to get. If you are smart enough to fit the roller into the pocket the tool does the rest. No need to think about a thing or have the slightest skills. Love it to death but have your girlfriend/boyfriend/wife/husband get you one for a birthday present or something because they sure as hell aren't giving them away.
#11
Thread Starter
huffy owns
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 572
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From: Pennsylvania.
Bikes: Catrike Expedition, KHS XC 204 mountain bike, Nashbar SS Road Bike
I really have no idea what the scoop is on this 1/8 and 3/32 talk. In fact, I didn't even do any matching when I bought the stuff. I converted a hardtail mountain bike. I simply just ordered chainrings and cogs that fit my bike and ordered a single speed chain "designed for BMX and single speeds." Evidently I have a 1/8 (???) from the looks of it. This is what I got.
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._200276_200425
Also - Any Rennen owners here - Is your Rennen silent? For some reason I just can't get out of my head that the Rennen would be kind of noisy when dealing with the chain actually going over the roller, but with it's remarkably good reviews I'm sure I'm wrong. But I just wanted to hear it from someone who owns one.
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._200276_200425
Also - Any Rennen owners here - Is your Rennen silent? For some reason I just can't get out of my head that the Rennen would be kind of noisy when dealing with the chain actually going over the roller, but with it's remarkably good reviews I'm sure I'm wrong. But I just wanted to hear it from someone who owns one.





