Gear Ratio
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
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Gear Ratio
I know that this is a really noobish question to ask, but how do i find out what my gear ratio is?
I'm pretty sure whatever ratio i have now is not right for my riding conditions (lots of hills), so how do I change it?
Thanks
I'm pretty sure whatever ratio i have now is not right for my riding conditions (lots of hills), so how do I change it?
Thanks
Last edited by Barnaby1; 07-11-09 at 07:28 PM.
#2
your gear ratio is (the number of teeth on your front chainring)/(the number of teeth on your rear cog)
to make it easier to pedal, you either increase the number of teeth up front or decrease the number of teeth in the back
to make it easier to pedal, you either increase the number of teeth up front or decrease the number of teeth in the back
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Athens, Ohio
Bikes: Fuji Track, Half built 70s Azuki
I'd recommend getting a bigger cog. How hilly is the area you live? You want a ratio that is low enough to get up hills but at the same time you won't be spinning out while going downhills.
#9
chickenosaurus
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Boston, MA
Bikes: 2010 Motobecane Team Track, 1997 GT Edge, 2012 Kilo TT Stripper
wrong way, increasing the number of teeth on the chainring will make pedaling harder.
#11
haha my bad. i don't even remember making this post. i broke my jaw a few days ago and i'm pretty drugged on oxy right now. but yeah, replace "easier" with "harder" in my earlier statement.
#13
Senior Member
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From: dirty meda
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle, 1981 Gios Aerodynamic, Giant Boulder
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Seattle
Bikes: Masi & Peugeot
If I were you I'd go get a 15t or 16t cog, 16t being easier one to start to learn how to skid on (also gives you more skid patches than 15t). Going to be cheaper than buying a new chainring and I never like going to low on chainring size, the smaller they are the quicker they wear out.
#18
Member
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Atlanta
Fewer skid patches = more tire wear in the same places which translates to more flats and more money spent on tires. If you must skid you can throw a 17t cog on the back and then you've got 17, learn to skid ambidextrously and you've got 34. However a 42/17 will be quite a bit easier / you'll spin out everywhere.
#19
Oh, you know...
Joined: May 2009
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From: DC
Bikes: '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
Hope this doesn't need saying, but the "more tire wear" thing is only true if you skid.
If you run a brake and actually use it (aka you like going fast) then you don't need to worry about skid patches at all.
If you run a brake and actually use it (aka you like going fast) then you don't need to worry about skid patches at all.
#23
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Atlanta
Steve098 the only time I have ever heard anything like that is in regards to those using vertical dropouts having issues with chain tension, and I can't vouch for that. Barnaby1 I would recommend riding with a front brake regardless, riding fixed no brakes fast is dangerous. As for how long your tires will last, that depends on how hard you are on them, how often you skid, what kind of tires you have, etc..




