Thanks for posting the link guys. :)

it there any chance that the fork can be drilled for a front brake?

http://s3.amazonaws.com/advrider/ear.gif

Cringe! :eek:

There is a single speed version

You have a pic of said SS Panasonic track frame?

it looks the same, but is has cable mounts on the top tube for running the brake and has holes drilled front and rear.

i'm aware of that, but don't care for the bosses on the frame for the rear brake. just need a front brake.

lets try to keep the wiseass comments to a minimum :D

just use a clamp on front brake if you get an undrilled fork.

I didn't know such a thing existed. Could you please provide a link or photo? Thanks.

tejano- http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=3749

It clamps onto both fork blades. Easy to remove, and you don't need any drillings for it to work. Kinda pricey, tho.

OK, I get it, looks like it would work perfectly on my 1976 Schwinn Paramount P14 steel track bike which has round fork blades. Not too crazy about those clamps gouging the paint though.

There was talk on here about clamp-on brakes not being very safe for everyday usage. Something about a fork not being built to handle the stress from a brake being clamped onto the blades instead of the bridge. Too lazy to look for it, but it's on here.

So, wouldn't that mean that cantilever brakes are also unsafe, because they mount directly to the fork blades?

well, I would think brazed-on studs would be stronger than clamps. I would also think the design of a fork meant to work with canti-brakes differs from that of a fork not meant to have any brake mounted period. but I'm not talking from any sort of informed perspective, so I don't have an answer for you.

The deal is that track forks are rounded to resist lateral flexing when sprinting. Regular road forks are usually ovalized to handle the fore and aft stresses of a front brake.

Well, in that case it really would not matter where the brake was mounted; the bending stress in the fork blades due to braking forces would be the same.

OMG who gives a ****! for the love of god and everything you hold holy! get the ****ing drilled fork!

the clamp on brakes would transfer the stress to the blades because that where they're clapmed. getting a fork drilled would transfer it to the crown, which seems more suited for handling that kind of stress.

I think you are confusing local stresses with global flexural bending stress that is the result of the bending moment in the blades that occurs from the braking reaction force at the bottom of the tire where it meets the pavement. The bending stress is dependent only on the amount of braking force generated and the vertical distance from the pavement to the top of the fork legs. Again, the local stresses from the clamps would be no worse than those caused by cantilever brake mounts, maybe even less because the clamps distribute the loading around the fork blade, whereas the brazed-on cantilever mounts concentrate it at the connection points. Manufacturers of bicycle tube sets do not not make special fork blades for front cantilever brakes any more than they make special seat stays for rear cantilever brake mounts, and track fork blades are generally made of thicker tubing than road fork blades. So, I really fail to see how this could be a serious problem, unless the real issue is the strength/rigidity of the clamps themselves.

go buy a road fork with similar steerer tube length. save your track fork. done

It's not that easy dude....you'd have to find a front fork with similar axle to crown measurements to preserve the frame geo; simply putting on a road fork with a 1" steerer would change the handling of the bike pretty significantly. It would also look like balls.

I would say one of the coolest things about a track frameset is the matching, ultra low clearance lugged fork.

The simplest solution would be to offer a drilled fork, not to direct folks to the singlespeed section...

Panasonic wont drill the fork on the NJS frame...for obvious reasons. Its for track racing, in their mind and is the reason they offer the SS version.

You could, and people have had with no problems, the fork of the NJS frame drilled.