Gentlemen, I recently picked up a Capo with a SS/Fixed gear flip flop, only it is missing the fixed gear cog. I'm not sure what tooth cog is should get, and help would be greatly appreciated. Currently, on a 48t/17t.


thanks
-Sol

48x17 seems perfect already

You aren't providing enough info for us to really help you. Your gearing preference can change with your fitness level, time of year, steepness and length of hills, etc. Part of the skill of a SS/FG rider is knowing what gear to choose for the ride. It doesn't hurt to have a few different cogs (or a few different bikes geared differently). How does 48x17 feel to you? Thats a pretty typical gear ratio. Unless you are climbing monster hills, I'd start with that and move up or down later, depending on your preference.

I think I'm comfortable with the current ratio. Riding around the suburbs it wasn't fast enough, but I think that I can always grow to a bigger ratio once I get used to a fixed.

Are all Cog thread sizes the same (thread)? Can I just go on ebay and find a 17t fixed cog/lockring and be on my merry way? Forgive me for such a simple question, but I am new to all this.

Thanks
-Sol

Not all cogs are the same size and not all chain rings are the same size. I've seen anything from a 12t cog up to a 22t. And ive seen 36t chainring up to 54t.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_g.html#gearinch

This should help. Higher the number harder riding up hills will be but faster on flats, lower the number easier uphill, but spin like crazy down them and flats will be slow unless you can blast your quads.

Maybe I should have been a little more clear. I want to get a 17t cog for my hub, is there a tread standard for cogs? Will any 17t cog thread onto my hub?

Thanks.

Yes, for the most part.
Yes. Virtually every cog you can find on ebay will work. Stick with decent CNC'ed cogs...not cheap stamped ones.

Are you having a problem with 48 x 17? Don't fix it if it's not broken.

Thanks guys. I'll stick to the 48x17 and I'll get a CNC'ed cog on ebay.

I will agree with this with a caveat, I used cheap stamped cogs while I tried out what gear ratio/inches I wanted...I went through 3 different $9 cogs before I found what gear I was comfortable with and then I bought a Milwaukee Bicycle cog for $30....the difference between stamped and CNC is phenominal BTW

So there are two different types 17T 3/32" or 17T 1/18". I"m assuming that these numbers have to do with the threading (I could be wrong). Which one should I get?

Thanks again for all the help, I'm a total noob.

no those are the thickness of the cog itself......track chains are normally 1/8 which means you can use either but if you have a 3/32" chain you can't use a 1/8" cog. I prefer the feeling of a 1/8" chain on a 1/8" cog it feels more powerful to me

i like 48/19 too

How do I know if I have a 1/8" I've been searching online, but I cannot find a definite answer.
Thanks

You are hallucinating.

It has nothing to do with the threading and relates to the width of the chain. 1/8" chains are wider, and can accomodate thicker teeth on the chainring and cog. 3/32" is narrower, hence the teeth of the cog and chainring are thinner.

1/8" is an old standard that is still used on many track bikes and some other types of singlespeeds (some BMX) and 3-speeds.

3/32" is more common.

I'm note sure which type of drive train your Capo comes with (it could be either, and possibly even a mixture of both). 3/32" cogs and chainrings will work with either type of chain. 1/8" cogs and chainrings only work with 1/8" chains. Only buy a 1/8" cog if you are sure you have a 1/8" drive train, otherwise go with 3/32" which will work with either.

just get this and this
https://rd.unrealcycles.com/catalog/item477.htm
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=10825

not in the last 25 years anyway.....1/8" chain on a 3/32" cog moves around, to me it feels weird and to be honest I don't like the feeling

Thanks for all the replies. FYI for anyone looking for this information, Cannondale Capo has 3/32" chain (I contacted Cannondale about this).

Its either in your head, or something else is wrong (such as a worn-out chain, cog, or f'ed up chainline). All else being equal, you absolutely cannot "feel" the difference between a 3/32" and 1/8" cog.

well i felt the difference between a 3/32" Formula and a 1/8" Milwaukee Bicycle cog on a KMC Z510 chain it was like night and day, I could feel the difference between a 3/32" and 1/8" freewheel on a KMC 710 chain on my Cruiser

I don't disagree that one might perceive a small physical slop with a 1/8" chain on a 3/32" cog or freewheel if the chainline isn't dead on. Might come back to you in the way of weird vibration passed to you by drivetrain feedback, felt through the pedals. While likely a very, very small thing, I don't think Xgecko is crazy or imagining things.

Set up the same way, there is no way you could feel the difference. Set up the same way, the only way one could feel less solid than the other is for the chain to be elastic. I will bet any money that you set up the 3/32" chain with somewhat more slack and then could feel that slight fudge when you start up and stop.

jim

I think you're disregarding chainline in the equation. As I see the issue, elasticity has nothing to do with it.

Xgecko, care to chime in?

Chain line didn't change though noise level was seriously reduced with a 1/8" cog....though normally I don't hear that as much as feel it since I ride with headphones most of the time. Chain stretch is gone, as someone who has snapped a chain on a BMX start I'm not a fan of chains that stretch much so I tend to prefer drivetrains that are over built