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^^ Easier than that is...
Boil a pot of water, take the bike outside, splash said hot water (be careful!) on crank arm, and you should be able to take off the crank (with a pair of gloves on). While I have never tried this, I have heard of it working. It relies mainly on the fact that your aluminum crank will expand greater than the steel bb spindle, leaving just enough room to slip the crank off. Couldn't hurt to give it a shot. |
Originally Posted by Yo!
(Post 9680862)
Think I can borrow your phone for that?
Tejano, I actually spoke to a guy on Sunday ab those Paul cranks and I heard they're really spindly because of the thin spider. You ever tried them out? |
See if your shop will chase them out the next size up and sell you a single self extracting bolt. Cost you a couple bucks.
I did this a couple years ago while trying to remove my crankarm really drunk, and never took out the crank bolt. I'll admit it... |
Originally Posted by pkpsu
(Post 9683163)
^^ Easier than that is...
Boil a pot of water, take the bike outside, splash said hot water (be careful!) on crank arm, and you should be able to take off the crank (with a pair of gloves on). While I have never tried this, I have heard of it working. It relies mainly on the fact that your aluminum crank will expand greater than the steel bb spindle, leaving just enough room to slip the crank off. Couldn't hurt to give it a shot. |
On my last crankset that I took off the threads were too damaged to even thread the crank puller on. The mechanic at the LBS gave me what he called a "pickle tool" (probable not the correct name?). It was a wedge-shaped tool that slipped over both sides of the spindle in between the crank and bb. I gave the top a few solid whacks with a hammer, and VOILA! the crank arm came off. Last night I attempted to lightly tap the back of the crank arm with a hammer and a punch and rag. I didn't really get to into it before I quit. I'll be building my new wheels tonight, so I have some time before I attempt to pull the crank arm. |
Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 9678796)
It is the result of bad metallurgy/machining in which the material becomes brittle and cracked when the threads are initially made, and is in no way the result of your actions.
Prepare to be crucified by a horde of abovementioned hypsters who purchased a Sugino 75 and need to justify spending too much for two pieces of forged aluminum. |
Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 9680840)
Have you ever considered one of these? >>>> http://www.paulcomp.com/rdcrank.html
Best of all, the chainring is made of 6061 aluminum, which normally is really too soft for a chainring - but due to the magic dust, this one will last very long, defying all laws of physics. |
Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops
(Post 9685029)
HERESY! The Sugino 75 is made with superior technology and is well worth every penny! They even put that magic dust on it, so $200 is cheap for such stellar cranks! Every gullible hypster with too much money and half a brain knows this.
Prepare to be crucified by a horde of abovementioned hypsters who purchased a Sugino 75 and need to justify spending too much for two pieces of forged aluminum. There's nothing wrong w Sugino 75's. EDIT: was the "magic dust" thing funny enough to warrant two posts? |
Originally Posted by Yo!
(Post 9685124)
What other NJS crank would you suggest to compliment my NJS frame? I'm just not about buying used square taper cranks, so what other options does that leave me?
There's nothing wrong w Sugino 75's. |
Originally Posted by jim-bob
(Post 9685135)
Where are you racing that the track officials are checking your gear for the NJS cert?
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Dura Ace?
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Originally Posted by Yo!
(Post 9685124)
What other NJS crank would you suggest to compliment my NJS frame? I'm just not about buying used square taper cranks, so what other options does that leave me?
There's nothing wrong w Sugino 75's. |
I could spend the same on Srams, which I bought for this bike, but they wouldn't work because of spider interference w the chainstay.
I could have gone w Dura Ace, but what makes Dura Ace better than Sugino? I've never been a big fan of Shimano, and they're more expensive than 75's. Again, there's plenty of other options, but like I said, I'm not one to buy used square taper cranks. I want my cranks/bb/and frame to be matching NJS, so Sugino is the most viable option. Do you feel the same way ab Grand Mightys? Tell me what amazing crankset you prefer woroormwowomwwowm**** |
Originally Posted by Yo!
(Post 9685328)
I could spend the same on Srams, which I bought for this bike, but they wouldn't work because of spider interference w the chainstay.
I could have gone w Dura Ace, but what makes Dura Ace better than Sugino? I've never been a big fan of Shimano, and they're more expensive than 75's. Again, there's plenty of other options, but like I said, I'm not one to buy used square taper cranks. I want my cranks/bb/and frame to be matching NJS, so Sugino is the most viable option. Do you feel the same way ab Grand Mightys? Tell me what amazing crankset you prefer woroormwowomwwowm**** Little edit: I find it amazing and very telling that you are more offended by my assertion that you spent too much money on a crankset, than you are at people saying that you are too dumb to correctly use a crank puller. For the record, I never doubted that you followed a correct procedure when (trying to) remove the cranks from the spindle, even though I myself have never stripped the threads while pulling a crank. Oh, and I have that same Park Tool crank puller. |
1 Attachment(s)
Steelwool... just waiting to install them. Had a back wheel destruction I need to deal with first. Any reason for the JNS zeal in Texas other than it complements the build? ( i can understand that, a build is a build)
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What leads you to believe I'm offended by you telling me I shouldn't have spent my money on Sugino 75's?
I spent $244 for my set w chainring, plus the $100 for the new arms to replace my stripped one, so I've spent closer to $350 on them. It sucks, but hell, what can I do. I'm not sure why you're trying to single me out on an anonymous chat forum. How come you didn't tell me what cranks you're using? |
Originally Posted by Yo!
(Post 9686938)
What leads you to believe I'm offended by you telling me I shouldn't have spent my money on Sugino 75's?
I spent $244 for my set w chainring, plus the $100 for the new arms to replace my stripped one, so I've spent closer to $350 on them. It sucks, but hell, what can I do. I'm not sure why you're trying to single me out on an anonymous chat forum. How come you didn't tell me what cranks you're using? |
Yo!,
I enjoyed your posts. I in no way find you to be creating drama, lying, or making anything up. I have to admit your experience is strange but strange doesn't me bad. It just means strange. Your original and follow up posts come across as legitimate. Sugino 75 cranks are in no way an excessive purchase. I'm not sure where that sort of talk is coming from. I also don't get the drama accusation. Weird. Anyway, I'm glad you got a fresh set without breaking the bank. +1 to your lbs. |
Originally Posted by oldfixguy
(Post 9690499)
Yo!,
Sugino 75 cranks are in no way an excessive purchase. I'm not sure where that sort of talk is coming from. Look guys, you can do whatever you want with your money, but just because your crankset is 3 times more expensive than another crankset of the same quality, doesn't make your crankset better, just your pockets emptier. And the only way you can't find the cheaper cranksets is if you don't want to find them. The barrier between you and the cheaper and justas good cranksets, is 3 seconds of googling. But then you would have to admit that you have been taken in by marketing (and maybe peer pressure?). It takes a lot of self-confidence to admit that you were wrong. I'm not sure what you mean about that "drama" comment, though. |
Why so defensive ab Sugino 75's?
It's a good crankset. Sugino's been in the market since 1910, and the Sugino 75 was introduced in 1985, "marking the pinnacle of the company's achievement". It has a long history with track users for a reason. I'm still wondering why you're shirking the question of what cranks you use. If you come back and tell me you're running $50 origin 8 cranks than this whole conversation seems to be based around crank envy. Nice. You can do what you want w your money, just like I can with mine. |
Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops
(Post 9690809)
Look guys, you can do whatever you want with your money. |
Yo!
After looking over where I took the pickling fork to my crank arm, it did marr the outer lip of the bottom bracket just a little bit. If I were you, I wouldn't be too worried about this, as it in no way damages or hinders the performance of the bearings. If you are worried, maybe stick a thin piece of metal and cloth on top of the bb to protect it. To me, the pickle fork seems like the easiest method. My story kind of ironically matches this post in numerous ways: 1) I had to extract my old cranks in a non-traditional way, 2) I was replacing my old cranks with a brand new set of Sugino 75s, and 3) I was replacing a set of sh***y origin8 cranks, and just for the record, 75s are way stiffer and a much better setup, but I shouldn't have to tell any experienced riders that! As a side note, I still dont see why you would want to run an open-bearing bottom bracket on your street bike. Its just impractical. |
I'm going to guess to maintain the NJS-ness of the bike.
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Originally Posted by TRaffic Jammer
(Post 9698487)
I'm going to guess to maintain the NJS-ness of the bike.
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tl;dr
1. OP: Are *all* of the threads gone? I've seen this happen a bunch of times, but usually only when the crank puller was only threaded in part way. 2. OP: You can still pull a crank arm with stripped threads using an automotive rod puller 3. Sugino makes excellent products. Solid company, too. I met Mr Sugino last week in Kyoto and talking with him for a while I honestly am going with Sugino automatically next time I need new cranks, now that I know the quality of people behind the company. |
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