So how much weight should I lose?

Or maybe I can just use stronger rims, like I do.

Someone is a little testy about their weight.

Enough so you don't taco wheels like it ain't no thang?

Or: ride smoother, build wheels better. You keep ignoring those two options.

Honestly, for him being 6'5", he is within the ideal bodyweight range.

He needs better built wheels, and he also needs to stop jumping curbs.

Ya just one problem with being a bigger guy. Although there is really no wrong way to ride a bike. At the end of the day these bikes are not meant for that kind of abuse.

You should see the cracked/fissure'd to **** santa cruz streets. My wheels are holding up just fine at 3x lacing 32h. i weight about 170 and i drop off curbs and what not. Make sure everything is at proper tension and you should be fine. The deep v's arent a weak wheel.

It's ADSR. Attack, Decay, Sustain, Release.

And that wasn't an edit. Oopsies!

I need a new cheap SS wheelset and this thread helped a bit. i also ride in LA, where the street quality is definately worse than santa cruz, possibly better than east oakland. Im on the east (poor) side of town and not surprisingly the streets are much smoother on the rich side of town.

Advice for anybody bending their rims or clydesdales, run 32c or 35c street slicks at 90psi, much smoother ride and more protection for the wheel.

oo~ a sound guy

As long as the hubs have the right dimensions spec'd and toleranced right (not aware of any that are not) there is hardly a difference. There may be a difference in the bearings used, but those are easily changed.

My experience is that the bearings that come stock in Surly hubs are crap and will wear out quickly and new or old can not be set up to run smooth with no play. Equivalent replacement $6/ea.
Phil spec'd bearings work great - $9/ea
The bearings that come stock with the one set of Formula hubs I have work great too.

Also don't be swayed to much by how long an unloaded wheel spins on the stand either. Some bearings have a very small bit of constant drag that does not increase with load, but will prevent a 'forever' spin. Others may be very free running when under no load, but that doesn't mean they run just as friction free with a load.

I have been riding the stock surly hubs for about a year and a half, the only issue I am having is that the rear hub has a tiny bit of play. I need to get some cone wrenches so I can adjust the tension properly.

Try chuckkers

anyone have experience with the DT Swiss RR1.2 (seen on BWW) or those KinLin rims?

I'm pretty happy with my Miche primato's laced to velocity fusions.

Why not try triple walled B43's?