I bit the bullet... I finally bought a vintage road frame. Now... what to do?!?!!

I just purchased an '82 Peugeot Super Champion frame/fork- with the intentions of building a solid single-speed for zipping around Minneapolis!

Included with the bike is the stem/headset, seat post, as well as the BB. The previous owner says the BB is a Sugino, which he claims is British...

I need help. I want a flip/flop hub, at least a front brake, etc...

Any suggestions? I have a healthy budget, so I'm looking for lower-middle level stuff... not cheap, not high-end. I want bomb-proof hubs/weels, and am willing to buy them separately.

HELP ME!!

~Samuel

I'm saying this with complete, utter ignorance. Phil Wood.

Check this website out: Wheelbuilder.com
They don't have much of a selection. Velocity does it for a lot of people and they have that so there's that. You can purchase separate parts of the wheel from there as well. Personally I've had a good experience with them, which is why I'm recommending them. Also, if you have any questions pertaining to wheels that you don't want to ask here () you can contact them, they respond fairly quickly.

No I don't work for them.

hey man, great to see someone else doing a build with the **** ass weather we've had the past couple of weeks. Might I suggest an IRO build kit for the drivetrain, it's a hell of a bang for the buck. The saddle is such a personal choice that I would suggest heading down to the hub on cedar and giving their test saddles a try. For the wheels, if all you care about is durability than I would go for either deep vs or fusions, both by velocity. If you need any help putting it together head down to the grease pit. They have some good people down there.

Get yourself some hand built wheels. I promise the quality of components doesn't have to be boutique if you pony up for the handbuilts. Plan on 300-350 and you can get something really awesome. After that work out other components.

Okay, let me reiterate a bit...

I'd like to start things off on the cheaper side (I know, not exactly what I said earlier).

I want a good quality (yet affordable) flip/flop hub/wheel set, and am more than willing to go used.

My main concern (and question) is that of the BB... considering it's a British Sugino BB... is that standard, or will that make it harder to find parts? When I'm looking for chainrings/cranks/etc... what specs should i be looking for?

Again, complete ignorance on my part: Regarding the bottom bracket, I don't know if that is standard or not (I'm thinking it is not) but I do know that Phil Wood has several types of BB cups that can fit virtually any typeLOOK HERE of BB. If I read correctly they can be adjusted a few mm to best suit your needs. Sorry I can't recommend anything cheaper.

I'll second the hand built wheels too. If you can do it yourself even better.

Read all of this: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/velos.html

You can try to date your bike by date stamps on any original components: https://www.vintage-trek.com/component_dates.htm

the bottom bracket that you have right now is sized for a double chainring and it will most likely give you a crap chainline. This is bad. Get a new bottom bracket that corresponds with the crank that you are buying. The IRO drivetrain kit includes a botom bracket, cranks, chainring, chainring bolts, chain, cog, lockring, etc for 135. after that all that you need are wheels, a saddle that fits you, and a front brake and you are golden. should come to around 335 for low end stuff, up to 5 or 6 hundred for upper/mid range stuff.

Wow, that sounds really good actually. You'd still have dinero to spend after the fact too!

Does IRO sell their BB in French threads? I'm highly interested in one of their kits if they do.

No idea. I'm not affialiated with the site, just a happy customer trying to help out another minnesotan.

what does it take to change the threading of a BB? ...or is that impossible? literally, what would it take?

just curious...

Bottom bracket threading is permanent, but if it's an English-threaded bottom bracket you're golden. Get whatever you want, since almost everything you find will be compatible.

English=British?

I'm assuming so, since Sugino is a Japanese company.

English=British for bb threads. Renton is right -- don't screw around with the existing bb, just get a matched bb + crankset.

For wheels, honestly the currently abundant deep profile rims look silly on old frames imho. If you want to stay on the affordable side, fairly inexpensive box-section rims (e.g. Sun CR18, Mavic Open Sport) are pretty bombproof if properly hand-built (which should be the primary criterion for any wheel). I'd also recommend the Formula hubs; if you're up for building your own (a beginner can build an excellent wheel with some patience and guidance), the IRO-branded version of the Formula hubs is an absolute steal at $40/pr in their "bargain basement" right now.

I must say that I was really surprised this thread wasn't about this ad.

If the bottom bracket is Sugino, it should say so on the cups, as well as giving you the thread type:



"1.37" x 24T" is British/English thread -- this is the most common. Older Peugeots had French thread bottom brackets (35 x 1.0) but IIRC by 1982 they had changed over to British.

As noted above, the BB is likely set up for a double chainring. For SS/FG you will want to use a ring mounted on the inner plateau of a double crank to get the proper chainline. If you use a track crank designed for a single chainring, you will need to replace the BB spindle with a shorter one to move the ring inboard for proper chainline.

Probably not, but Velo-Orange does:

You have have to ream out the existing threads and cut new threads at a larger diameter. For English or French thread shells, this would mean the new threads would have to be Italian (36 x 24T). If it's already Italian, then don't bother -- just use a threadless BB cartridge.

Depending on what kind of Sugino bottom bracket it is, you can go with a Sugino crankset either an RD or a 75 - both excellent cranksets - the 75 is a primo set, more expensive. Does the bike have rear horizontal dropouts? if so, then you can go with any regular fixed gear hubbed rear wheel set; if not, I'd recommend you have a rear wheel built with a White Industries ENO eccentric hub. Heck if the front wheel is ok, just use it. Be sure and post some pix. Good luck!

Here's a good source in your part of the world: https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...bfe5f17d74653a