That will move your axle forward 1/4". Do you have 1/4" left to move the axle? If not you need to add a link or a half link.

yeah I should have the clearance. thank you.

Are the Miche cogs aluminum or steel?

Just bought the 1/8in 18t cog. This should make icey hills easier.

Steel. I have a pair of Miche cogs (16t and 17t) that I switch back and forth...16t in summer, and 17t in winter. I have been using the same cogs for 3 years now and they only show a small amount of wear.

I've used EAI, Dura-Ace, Formula, Surly, and Phil Wood cogs; the Phil is the best, followed by the Dura-ace (but they only make those up to 16t), then EAI, Surly, finally formula.

I used all these with SG75 and Zen chainrings, and when mated to the Phil, I have minimal tight spots and a very quiet drivetrain.

But I would agree that anyone will be ok just picking up a CNC'd over a stamped one.

I really like the Miche cogs also. Great for quick gear changes at the track and I have never had any problems with them on the street either.

how about the ACS Claws?

https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ils&ProdID=331

i know this is a noob question but would this freewheel cog work on a kilo TT even though the description says it's intended use is for BMX?

ACS is the freewheel-equivalent to a sun dried turd.

Get a Shimano for cheap, or a White Industries forever. That freewheel will work w your Kilo.

Can you explain that or tell me where you read that? They don't say anything on their website, literally.

I've only used Surly and they last a long time (over 15k miles) and reasonably quiet.

I tried a Profile 1/8 cog as the shop was out of Surly (it actually cost a few bucks more and the shop guy said it was better, doh) and that was by far the worst I've ever used. After a few hundred miles the teeth were heavily mushroomed and it only lasted about 1k miles before it was well worn out.

thanks yo!

I have a Surly cog and my drivetrain was a bit noisy. I got a Sugino 75 chainring and now it's quiet.
Chains and chainrings are part of the picture when it comes to noise so ya can't just blame it on the cog.
It's an Izumi chain, the silver one.

I didn't read it anywhere but, after owning one its plainly obvious that you can do this. The carrier is what determines the chainline. The cog itself is totally symmetrical, so you can, quite simply, remove it and flip it around. You will get the exact same chainline, and the chain will then be contacting the unworn side of the teeth. You can essentially get double the life out of the cog.

Here are two images for reference...

Anybody attempting to rank these cogs is just giving their opinion. There's no real data available saying which one is "better"...whatever that means. They are all basically the same thing. Perceived differences in noise, chain tight-loose spots, and wear rate can be attributed to a million other factors.

This is better advice.

They should use that in their advertisement

mihlbach, do you find that the Miche cog/carrier system has any play in it, or enough to be noticeable when riding?

There is a miniscule amount of play when the lockring is unistalled, but thats to be expected with any splined system. The play is basically microscopic and way too little play to notice while riding. The more important issue is if the play can work the lockring loose.

In my experience, the lockring stays tight. However, I don't do a whole lot of skidding and backpedalling...I do some of that, but not much. (I've been riding fixed too long to care about skidding and riding brakeless.) A brakeless rider would be wise to frequently check the lockring tension, at least until they were confident that it wasn't gradually coming loose.

That's excellent to hear. I always have visions of splined systems gradually developing more and more play until massive failure. Thanks for the quick reply!

I have had problems with other splined components, namely the WI crankset and chainring. Its fine riding SS, but when riding fixed, the lockring loosens. However, a bit of blue loctite completely solved that problem.

I never understood why WI went with that weird threaded lockring style crankset.

Me neither, yet I couldn't resist trying it out, largely because I have a weird chainline on my SS/FG/MTB and this crank would work well with my current BB. I contacted WI about the problem, and they seemed mystified why the cog would work itself loose when riding fixed, even though the reason (play between the crank and ring) is obvious.
Any any rate, they sent me some free lockrings and I loctited that sucker down and it holds together fine now.

The crank looks nice and works well (with loctite) but if I had to do it all over again, I'd go for a more traditionally designed crank.

How do you install the cog carrier on the hub? Can it be removed once installed?

I installed the carrier using a chainwhip. I have never removed one from a hub but it doesn't seem like it would be a nightmare.

Does Chris King make a fixed cog? If so, /thread.