Tips on paint maintenance
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Bikes: '08 Cannondale F5, '09 KHS Flite 100
Tips on paint maintenance
I have been loving my KHS Flite 100 for the past 5-6 months (my first SS/FG) but I am having a moral crisis. I work on a college campus, and I am forced to use the bike racks. I tried to sneak the thing inside, but building admins keep complaining and there just isn't room. Aside from the theft risk bothering me, the problem is that the sweet matte black paint job is scuffing from the lock-up and friction, and because the bike's an extension of my body it also hurts me. (Sliding out in the rain a few weeks ago didn't help the scratches, or my thigh)
1) Any tips for avoiding scuffs in the first place? I never lock it over the rack, because the tube/tire clearance just doesn't allow it, so all my scuffs come in on my fork or near the headset. I have only come up with very ghetto solutions, e.g. duct tape.
2) Is there an easy way to repair paint? It's Reynolds 520 steel, so I don't want to mess with it too much, but some easy way to touch up would be nice.
It's like when your child falls down for the first time. It just hurts to see the scratches. But all the campus/local bar racks seem to be made of sandpaper and are killing me.
3) Maybe KHS needs to use tougher paint.
1) Any tips for avoiding scuffs in the first place? I never lock it over the rack, because the tube/tire clearance just doesn't allow it, so all my scuffs come in on my fork or near the headset. I have only come up with very ghetto solutions, e.g. duct tape.
2) Is there an easy way to repair paint? It's Reynolds 520 steel, so I don't want to mess with it too much, but some easy way to touch up would be nice.
It's like when your child falls down for the first time. It just hurts to see the scratches. But all the campus/local bar racks seem to be made of sandpaper and are killing me.
3) Maybe KHS needs to use tougher paint.
#2
Beausage is Beautiful

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 13
From: Saitama, Japan
Bikes: Nabiis Alchemy
Learn to love the beausage. Let it chip, let it scratch, let it look like hell in 10 years and be proud that it does.
EDIT: past that, Testors model paint works great for close-matching touch up paint.
EDIT: past that, Testors model paint works great for close-matching touch up paint.
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Yo. Everything I’m doing is linked on What’s up with Dave? but most of note currently is Somewhere in Japan.
Yo. Everything I’m doing is linked on What’s up with Dave? but most of note currently is Somewhere in Japan.
#3
THE STUFFED


Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,671
Likes: 21
From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: R. Sachs Simplicity; EAI Bareknuckle; Madone SLR9 Gen 8
1) Get a top tube pad if you prefer locking up the top tube OR electrical tape, where the locking preferred spots are on your bike; cheap and effective but it's gonna look cheap...but it discourages thieves anyway!.
2)testors enamel paint; get black w/ no gloss
3)maybe... all bikes need tough paint.
2)testors enamel paint; get black w/ no gloss
3)maybe... all bikes need tough paint.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 9,948
Likes: 400
From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
For a nominal fee, I will follow you around everywhere and just hold your bike whenever you have to go inside. You won't even have to lock up, so no more scuffing!
#8
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 294
Likes: 1
On a more serious note, if you lock sheldon style (or close to it but using the seat tube instead) you can lean the bike against the crank arm.
Crank arms have a more durable finish and you probably don't care as much about scuffs on them. If you are using a mini U lock, you might be able to get everything tight enough that the bike can't be made to lean on the top tube but with a longer lock, there is alway a chance that someone can knock your bike over into the post...It isn't easy to do (wind won't do it) but somebody squeezing a bike in next to you might knock it over. To combat this, you can always put something in the middle...if you lock with a chain or cable, loop it so that if the bike is knocked into a post, it will land on the covered section of chain.
Crank arms have a more durable finish and you probably don't care as much about scuffs on them. If you are using a mini U lock, you might be able to get everything tight enough that the bike can't be made to lean on the top tube but with a longer lock, there is alway a chance that someone can knock your bike over into the post...It isn't easy to do (wind won't do it) but somebody squeezing a bike in next to you might knock it over. To combat this, you can always put something in the middle...if you lock with a chain or cable, loop it so that if the bike is knocked into a post, it will land on the covered section of chain.
#9
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Bikes: '08 Cannondale F5, '09 KHS Flite 100
I like the Testor's idea. For painting scuff marks on semi-thin steel like a frame, should they be prepped in any way (sanded, primed, cleaners etc.) or is wiping off enough? I guess wherever I paint over will probably scratch again, so maybe I just answered my own question.
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,744
Likes: 1
From: Van BC
**** happens when you ride a bike every day, and wear adds character to a bike. In eight years when it's really bad just have the frame powdercoated, rinse lather repeat. I apply clear nail polish if my bike looks like it's going to rust somewhere, but areas that are getting rubbed all the time (such as the chainstays where your feet contact them) will tend to get rust buffed away anyways.
#13
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 12
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From: Austin, TX
Bikes: '08 Cannondale F5, '09 KHS Flite 100
Yeah, you're right. I guess it's just like a new pair of shoes, the first scuff is the deepest. I'll stop being such a namby-pamby now.
#18
Senior member

Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 176
Likes: 127
On a steel bike it is important to fill in the deep scratches to prevent rust. If you can see bare metal, it's a good idea to touch it up. If you have rubbing alcohol, prep with that, then paint (testors enamel is good).
If it already shows corrosion, you can sand it off a bit with a really light grit sand paper. If you want to get really fancy, you can use a metal primer before you paint.
If it already shows corrosion, you can sand it off a bit with a really light grit sand paper. If you want to get really fancy, you can use a metal primer before you paint.
Last edited by guy1138; 11-11-09 at 09:25 PM.
#19
Beausage is Beautiful

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 13
From: Saitama, Japan
Bikes: Nabiis Alchemy
Honestly I stopped covering big chips and deep scratches on my steel frame three years ago and not a single spot of exposed steel has any rust whatsoever. Between light moisture and light oil, they've all developed a bit of a patina sort of like an old wrench that's been in use a hell of a long time.
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Yo. Everything I’m doing is linked on What’s up with Dave? but most of note currently is Somewhere in Japan.
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#21
good friends dont
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 156
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From: San Diego
Bikes: Zullo Custom Track
as far as having the bare steel showing using oil to wipe down your bike works but the best thing I have found is car wax to prevent rust. Oil attracts dust and such when you ride your bike. with the car wax (turtle etc.) you dont have that problem and your bike is super shiny. which if your caring about scratches to begin with will probably be a big plus for you.





