Wheel building vs store/net bought
#1
Thread Starter
Friend of Jimmy K

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 2
From: Minneapolis
Bikes: A lot: Raliegh road bike, 3 fixed gears, 2 single speeds, 3 Cannondales, a couple of Schwinns
Wheel building vs store/net bought
I have enjoyed building my own wheels, and there is something about it that is satisfying, but it is a process that a busy schedule doesn't always offer up time to include lacing a wheel together, but this moderately priced wheel set I picked up 250 miles ago isn't all that great either. I did the cheap route to a single speed, just yanked the cassette off tore up an old cassette and threw a 15 with a bunch of spacers. I took time to make sure the chain line was spot on. 250 miles later the dam wheel's busting spokes.
I've had this problem with manufactured wheels before. One of the big peeves is the front wheel usually has the spokes asymetrical rather than symetircal. I don't know that you really notice the diference, but the wheel building book explained the dynamics of a wheel, and why spokes are laced the directio they are. Some manufacturers don't give a rat's a55 about that. Now we come to the rear wheel, and find not just are the spokes shorter (because of the freewheel, and dishing) but some are shorter than short where they are a couple twists into the spoke nipple. What gives?
I've really become decerning in my wheel building, and of the three I looked at at the LBS I chose the better of the three, I thought, plus there was a 100 mile thirty day warantee, doesn't do me much good as it is now 250 miles, and I've got a wheel I can't ride. My solution was to pull a Rolf Vector wheelset that I've been holding for a bike build on a new Cannondale frame that's sitting in the corner waiting for the skins to cover an Ultegra group.
Riding this SS now has me thinking of building the C-dale up to have two C-dale SSs, and blow the Ultegra.
So, the point of all this, what are y'all doin' for wheels? Have you become as descerning as myself, look over a wheelset before you buy it. Buy the upper crust stuff assuming it was assembled "correctly." Or have you lost faith in anything that isn't built by your own hands, short of a frame?
I've had this problem with manufactured wheels before. One of the big peeves is the front wheel usually has the spokes asymetrical rather than symetircal. I don't know that you really notice the diference, but the wheel building book explained the dynamics of a wheel, and why spokes are laced the directio they are. Some manufacturers don't give a rat's a55 about that. Now we come to the rear wheel, and find not just are the spokes shorter (because of the freewheel, and dishing) but some are shorter than short where they are a couple twists into the spoke nipple. What gives?
I've really become decerning in my wheel building, and of the three I looked at at the LBS I chose the better of the three, I thought, plus there was a 100 mile thirty day warantee, doesn't do me much good as it is now 250 miles, and I've got a wheel I can't ride. My solution was to pull a Rolf Vector wheelset that I've been holding for a bike build on a new Cannondale frame that's sitting in the corner waiting for the skins to cover an Ultegra group.
Riding this SS now has me thinking of building the C-dale up to have two C-dale SSs, and blow the Ultegra.
So, the point of all this, what are y'all doin' for wheels? Have you become as descerning as myself, look over a wheelset before you buy it. Buy the upper crust stuff assuming it was assembled "correctly." Or have you lost faith in anything that isn't built by your own hands, short of a frame?
#3
When it comes to fixed wheelsets, I build my own because I know they will be done correctly and they're usually cheaper than having one built.
But for my geared bikes (mtb's, mostly), unless you don't go custom, I find it's a lot cheaper to buy machine-built wheelsets, put on a few hundred miles and tweek/re-tention, or do whatever to them.
But for my geared bikes (mtb's, mostly), unless you don't go custom, I find it's a lot cheaper to buy machine-built wheelsets, put on a few hundred miles and tweek/re-tention, or do whatever to them.
#4
I couldn't car less.

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397
Likes: 0
Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.
I don't yet know how to lace up, What I have learned makes me respect the 'art' of building wheels. My rears are built now by a friend with a shop and skill.
A front wheel, to me is different and I don't mind a factory whatever. I mtb and they get smashed.
Rear it's those Swiss DT spokes and everything nice I can afford. If you take bikes\ wheels outside of the builders intended use...well, they often get messed.
Now I describe my riding habits, needs, my friend can determain my bike and body weight and reccomend the level of bombproofing I may need.
I end up needing a rim slightly under DH level, but with super heavy spokes.
I could probably find a factory rim, but it may have faults...I'm not going to send it to France, it's going to my mech, might as well be his build, he'll fix free and have info for building something better if it's my riding 'style' that causing repeat failure.
My frame was handbuilt, built up by me, and I like my wheels made by local builders.
>jef.
A front wheel, to me is different and I don't mind a factory whatever. I mtb and they get smashed.
Rear it's those Swiss DT spokes and everything nice I can afford. If you take bikes\ wheels outside of the builders intended use...well, they often get messed.
Now I describe my riding habits, needs, my friend can determain my bike and body weight and reccomend the level of bombproofing I may need.
I end up needing a rim slightly under DH level, but with super heavy spokes.
I could probably find a factory rim, but it may have faults...I'm not going to send it to France, it's going to my mech, might as well be his build, he'll fix free and have info for building something better if it's my riding 'style' that causing repeat failure.
My frame was handbuilt, built up by me, and I like my wheels made by local builders.
>jef.
#5
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 610
Likes: 0
From: Home of the Homeless
Bikes: Rustbuckets, the lot of them.
If you could find inexpensive factory made wheels somewhere, go for it. I got a Weinmann/Suzue track wheel for $36 several months back, it's held up fine so far. If I was really picky, I could have rebuilt it right out of the box. I still can if I wish.
There are times when you have no choice but custom, for example, if your rim/spoke/hub combo just isn't made.
Even then, it seems custom built wheels don't always eliminate problems like busting spokes. I'm sure you'll get horror stories here about crappy custom wheels. Sometimes custom wheels turn out less than OK, sometimes folks are just harder on stuff, sometimes shlt just happens.
There are times when you have no choice but custom, for example, if your rim/spoke/hub combo just isn't made.
Even then, it seems custom built wheels don't always eliminate problems like busting spokes. I'm sure you'll get horror stories here about crappy custom wheels. Sometimes custom wheels turn out less than OK, sometimes folks are just harder on stuff, sometimes shlt just happens.
#7
無くなった

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,072
Likes: 0
From: Sci-Fi Wasabi
Bikes: I built the Bianchi track bike back up today.
I haven't had any problems with the Surly/MA3 combos they sell down at the hub. I think they're made by WheelHouse or WeelBuilder or something that starts with wheel - it was local, out in Shakopee or somewhere. Think it might be a sub-company of Quality, but don't know.
The last one I had held up well untill I was rear-ended - even then, the rim snapped, but none of the spokes broke, and the front bumper of the car didn't make it all the way up to my frame.
But I only weigh 140, so there's probably a lot less stress on mine than yours.
Was it a new wheel or re-furbished? If it's used, it wouldn't surprise me if it looked the best because they had to put the most time into getting it true again...
The last one I had held up well untill I was rear-ended - even then, the rim snapped, but none of the spokes broke, and the front bumper of the car didn't make it all the way up to my frame.
But I only weigh 140, so there's probably a lot less stress on mine than yours.
Was it a new wheel or re-furbished? If it's used, it wouldn't surprise me if it looked the best because they had to put the most time into getting it true again...
#8
~OPSEC~

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
From: Shreveport, LA
Bikes: GT Timberline (mtb) and Haro Backtrail (bmx)
I never have had problems with even the cheapest storebought wheels, other than regular tweeking re-tentioning. I ride HARD, do jumping occasionally, and am certainly no lightweight (210 +/-). I guess it comes down to luck of the draw and how smooth you are.
#10
Build myself. That way I know I can trust them 100%. Look at it this way, how often do you have to build a new wheel? Usually not very often, so even if you are short on time, it's rare that you have to do it. And I'm saying that with a busy schedule right now, a newly finished wheel and 2 in the queue to do (rare, but it sometimes it happens). It's still worth it for me to do it myself.





