token cog and lockring?
#7
I beg to differ. I have been on a 7075 alloy cog (Starf*cker?) since September 2009. It is frighteningly light, but it's running strong on its fourth month.

I think it could be because my COG is 19T and is big. You might get different results for small cogs. But you know, alloy cogs have been around for good long time now. There are NJS alloy cogs. The new Sugino cogs (/w splines) are aluminum, too.
But I wouldn't go with the aluminum lockring. I am worry about cracking there. Cogs are thick block of metal, but lockring is ... a thin "ring" of metal you see?

I think it could be because my COG is 19T and is big. You might get different results for small cogs. But you know, alloy cogs have been around for good long time now. There are NJS alloy cogs. The new Sugino cogs (/w splines) are aluminum, too.
But I wouldn't go with the aluminum lockring. I am worry about cracking there. Cogs are thick block of metal, but lockring is ... a thin "ring" of metal you see?
#8
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From: Davis/Lafayette, CA
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wtf i don't get the point of an alloy cog... can't imagine it's shaving a whole lot of weight, any additional mass that a steel cog would have is relatively close to the center of rotation and wouldn't have much rotational inertia (especially compared to added weight of a veep d or whatever rim). they're more expensive, i'm guessing a shorter lifespan...
color me confused
color me confused
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Between the mountains and the lake.
Bikes: 8 bikes - one for each day of the week!
For all the conversions we see on here, and all the chainline issues that get posted, (probably plenty more that don't) I just don't see the need for one. As has already been pointed out, the weight savings is minimal. Then again, if they come in anodized colors...
#10
I would not touch an alloy cog with a ten foot pole and an alloy lock ring is a failure waiting to happen.
Steel is cheaper, stronger, and will outlast the alloy counterpart by many factors and 4 months is not a good field test unless you are racking up immense mileage... a quality steel cog on a bike with a perfect chain line can run out for 10,000 km or more while an alloy cog might last 4000-5000 km at best.
I have vintage steel cogs that are seemingly wear proof and the lowly Formula cogs I run have stood up to massive mileage and abusive conditions without failing... although these are not as good as some of the vintage cogs I have come across.
Formula lock rings blow so for that I also use vintage lock rings as much as possible as I am not gonna fork out the stupid amounts of cash folks want for things like a Surly lock ring.
On that note, Surly cogs are great save for the fact they start to look like ass in no time as the finish sucks.
I also run high quality steel chain rings as I have had too many failures with alloy rings and again, they wear out too fast for my liking.
Bend one and it's toast... a steel ring can be serviced if it gets a little bent out of shape and the weight difference is not worth mentioning.
Steel is cheaper, stronger, and will outlast the alloy counterpart by many factors and 4 months is not a good field test unless you are racking up immense mileage... a quality steel cog on a bike with a perfect chain line can run out for 10,000 km or more while an alloy cog might last 4000-5000 km at best.
I have vintage steel cogs that are seemingly wear proof and the lowly Formula cogs I run have stood up to massive mileage and abusive conditions without failing... although these are not as good as some of the vintage cogs I have come across.
Formula lock rings blow so for that I also use vintage lock rings as much as possible as I am not gonna fork out the stupid amounts of cash folks want for things like a Surly lock ring.
On that note, Surly cogs are great save for the fact they start to look like ass in no time as the finish sucks.
I also run high quality steel chain rings as I have had too many failures with alloy rings and again, they wear out too fast for my liking.
Bend one and it's toast... a steel ring can be serviced if it gets a little bent out of shape and the weight difference is not worth mentioning.
#11
Steel is cheaper, stronger, and will outlast the alloy counterpart by many factors and 4 months is not a good field test unless you are racking up immense mileage... a quality steel cog on a bike with a perfect chain line can run out for 10,000 km or more while an alloy cog might last 4000-5000 km at best.
#12
Arrrrgh, you are right. Look at these.

Doesn't look so bad huh? But look at this.

I gotta gaps, you see? This wear is done in 3-4 months. Puts a shoe into my month, really.
Too bad, but it ain't no Sugino Gigas or something; I didn't pay much for it. I swapped to a steel one just now. I suppose an aluminum cog is "viable" but it isn't a good solution.

Doesn't look so bad huh? But look at this.

I gotta gaps, you see? This wear is done in 3-4 months. Puts a shoe into my month, really.
Too bad, but it ain't no Sugino Gigas or something; I didn't pay much for it. I swapped to a steel one just now. I suppose an aluminum cog is "viable" but it isn't a good solution.
#13
Arrrrgh, you are right. Look at these.

Doesn't look so bad huh? But look at this.

I gotta gaps, you see? This wear is done in 3-4 months. Puts a shoe into my month, really.
Too bad, but it ain't no Sugino Gigas or something; I didn't pay much for it. I swapped to a steel one just now. I suppose an aluminum cog is "viable" but it isn't a good solution.

Doesn't look so bad huh? But look at this.

I gotta gaps, you see? This wear is done in 3-4 months. Puts a shoe into my month, really.
Too bad, but it ain't no Sugino Gigas or something; I didn't pay much for it. I swapped to a steel one just now. I suppose an aluminum cog is "viable" but it isn't a good solution.
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