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-   -   I did not strip the the lockring threads. (https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/621736-i-did-not-strip-lockring-threads.html)

RooNYC 02-19-10 08:35 PM


Originally Posted by mihlbach (Post 10399931)
Yes, you are missing how to properly install a cog and lockring.


Another wonderful informative answer. Thats FGSS forum!

If you bothered to read my post, I was questioning how the Miche system is any better that a regular threaded cog and lock ring since the cog carrier screws on the same way. I was also asking if an Origin8 formula hub whould be more durable that the novatec.
FYI, the cogs that I stripped where both installed at by a mechanic at a very reputable NYC bike shop that works with fixed gears alot. I stripped the cog because I weigh over 200 lbs, bomb hills and skid stop alot. This is your cue to tell to use a brake since that seems to be a popular thing to do around here.

Sixty Fiver 02-19-10 11:51 PM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 10409994)
That's an oil port. Hubs like that turn up on eBay fairly often.

Some of these hubs that look like track hubs were actually made to be used on older tandems as the second set of threads is where the drag brake was fitted.

mihlbach 02-20-10 05:36 AM


Originally Posted by RooNYC (Post 10426508)
Another wonderful informative answer. Thats FGSS forum!

If you bothered to read my post, I was questioning how the Miche system is any better that a regular threaded cog and lock ring since the cog carrier screws on the same way. I was also asking if an Origin8 formula hub whould be more durable that the novatec.
FYI, the cogs that I stripped where both installed at by a mechanic at a very reputable NYC bike shop that works with fixed gears alot. I stripped the cog because I weigh over 200 lbs, bomb hills and skid stop alot. This is your cue to tell to use a brake since that seems to be a popular thing to do around here.

BFD. A lot of people your size do the same thing and don't strip their hubs or cogs. Your mechanic is incompetent.

Tomo_Ishi 02-20-10 07:24 AM

I was lacing a rear wheel today (and consequently putting on a cog) and remembered something.

I usually prefer a Dura-Ace lockring, but lately I am forced to use a thick Surly lockring. Why don't you do that? Depending on the cogs you use, the usual lockring doesn't get enough threading to work. ... For me, my cog (local brand) cave-in near the threading and the DA lockring screw-in too deep leaving 1-2mm of threading untouched.

What lockring are you using? It may be too thin or too soft, and you need to use something better.

P.S. You ought not trust your LBS especially with things you don't fully understand. You ought to have some sense of what you are asking them to do.

TejanoTrackie 02-20-10 09:26 AM


Originally Posted by Tomo_Ishi (Post 10427608)
P.S. You ought not trust your LBS especially with things you don't fully understand. You ought to have some sense of what you are asking them to do.

Unfortunately, some people are too dense to figure these things out. Instead, they like to come on this forum and either blame their equipment or boast about their prodigious equipment-breaking power. Since maybe one in ten bike shops have a competent service department, the end result is unnecessarily damaged components.

Tomo_Ishi 02-20-10 07:28 PM

Yeah, I know. But "tight as you can, but not too tight" or "40 N-m" don't really help. So if I weren't an engineer, I would make a beeline for LBS. This ain't all that "dense".

Any Lockring-GURU out there can show us the way of lockrings, the Lockring-do, I am pretty sure you are gonna be celebrated. (I certainly will)


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