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I did not strip the the lockring threads.
1 Attachment(s)
The lockring held. The HUB broke.
Attachment 137239 I am now mentally filing track thread and lockrings under the category for "worst mechanical interfaces." Does it work out well to get a tommicog and respace a front disc hub out to rear width? |
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Ouch. As for the front disc hub, I've only heard good things about that method.
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I'm running a front disc hub with a home drilled cog. Chain-line came out at 46mm for a 130mm spaced hub and no dish, which suits me as I'm using the outer ring of a road double. My biggest concern is that a front hub uses smaller bearings than a rear, but I haven't put enough time on the bike to see how the bearings are going hold up.
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Have you seen Velosolo? 50-60 UKP so it's more affordable than Philwood bolt-on cog/hub setup. I would eventually have to lace one for myself, but people use this cog-lockring setup fine, you know?
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Another option is the Miche system, which uses splined cogs that slide onto a carrier that is permanently screwed onto the hub. A lockring is used to keep the cogs from sliding off, but it takes no load and is tightened lightly. Another advantage of this system is that cog changes are quick and easy.
http://www.worldclasscycles.com/mich...ier_on_hub.htm |
Originally Posted by zzyzx_xyzzy
(Post 10397673)
The lockring held. The HUB broke.
Attachment 137239 Does it work out well to get a tommicog and respace a front disc hub out to rear width? The chances of this happening again are remote even with a cheap formula or novatec hub. I would just replace it with another track hub. The tomicog/disc front hub interface is indestructible and great for offroading, but excessive for road riding. I built a tomicog wheel with a Surly front disc hub. The Surly front hubs use the same bearings as the rear, so converting the hub involves changing only the axle and nuts. WIth any disc hub conversion, getting the chainline right is a bit more challenging than a normal track hub and you may end up with a slightly dished wheel. The excessive amount of axle spacers and inboard position of the NDS bearing could compromise bearing life. Also keep in mind that front hubs were not designed to be rear hubs so in the event of failure you are **** out of luck in terms of warrantee replacement. |
Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 10398534)
Another option is the Miche system.[/URL]
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I know that this kind of failure is unlikely and stripping the threads is also unlikely with proper installation and tons of people use threaded hubs with no problem. It's more the principle of the thing. The threaded cog/reverse threaded lockring interface would have never existed if there were competent mechanical engineers involved. I feel the same about cottered cranksets, threaded headsets that rely on keyed washers, etc.
I can get a perfectly ok front disc hub out of the bin at recycled cycles for $8 and a velosolo or tomicog, and borrow the axle and spacers from this hub, so it actually works out to be of the cheapest options. Hilly around here so I don't anticipate wanting less than 16t anyway. |
Originally Posted by zzyzx_xyzzy
(Post 10397673)
The lockring held. The HUB broke.
Attachment 137239 I am now mentally filing track thread and lockrings under the category for "worst mechanical interfaces." Does it work out well to get a tommicog and respace a front disc hub out to rear width? Doesn't look like a JRA event in any case. |
Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 10398534)
Another option is the Miche system, which uses splined cogs that slide onto a carrier that is permanently screwed onto the hub. A lockring is used to keep the cogs from sliding off, but it takes no load and is tightened lightly. Another advantage of this system is that cog changes are quick and easy.
http://www.worldclasscycles.com/mich...ier_on_hub.htm |
I stripped a novatec hub in about 1.5 months of riding. Flipped to the other side and stripped that in 3 weeks. now I have an origina8 stamped forumla style hub. What can I expect in the durabilty department from my new hub?
Im not getting the miche splined cog thing. I could see it being great if the hub had splined and the cog mounted onto the hub directly but it uses a "cog carrier" that screws onto the hub the same way that a threaded cog would screw on. Would this unscrew when skid stopping the same as aregular cog and put pressure on the lock ring? Im thinking since its more parts it would actually be weaker that a solid cog threaded onto the hub. Im probably missing something. Can someone please explain how this system is an improvement on the standard threaded cog/hub? |
Originally Posted by RooNYC
(Post 10399758)
I stripped a novatec hub in about 1.5 months of riding. Flipped to the other side and stripped that in 3 weeks. now I have an origina8 stamped forumla style hub. What can I expect in the durabilty department from my new hub?
Im not getting the miche splined cog thing. I could see it being great if the hub had splined and the cog mounted onto the hub directly but it uses a "cog carrier" that screws onto the hub the same way that a threaded cog would screw on. Would this unscrew when skid stopping the same as aregular cog and put pressure on the lock ring? Im thinking since its more parts it would actually be weaker that a solid cog threaded onto the hub. Im probably missing something. Can someone please explain how this system is an improvement on the standard threaded cog/hub? |
I don't know how, but I installed my first cog wrong. Now I always use rotafix and oodles of grease. No problems on my Formula.
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just goes to show how you don't want Italian or French engineers designing your mechanical bits :innocent:
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mihlbach is right. Awww ... I was actually looking forward to the Velosolo stuff. I can service that hub 100% with my eyes closed and all.
Originally Posted by mihlbach
(Post 10398538)
I also use the Miche system for a track bike that mostly sees road use. I have been quite pleased with it, both in terms of ease of cog change and cost effectiveness.
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Originally Posted by Tomo_Ishi
(Post 10400177)
Wow wait, the carrier is screw-on right? That's same as any cog ain't it? I wouldn't do it if you are stripping the thread with normal cogs. ... a better hub is probably a better solution. ... But that doesn't mean it ain't cool. I would love one, but it's an import here. :(
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What if you don't use Loctite? Then the only advantage is easy cog changing right?
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Originally Posted by WoundedKnee
(Post 10400349)
What if you don't use Loctite? Then the only advantage is easy cog changing right?
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ive never considered the miche system. is there any play? does play ever develop?
what tool would one use to initially tighten the carrier -- or do you simply tighten by hand? would you say this is a system that one would never have to use a chainwhip? I hate chainwhips. how are the cogs? on par with eai, surly, da, etc? |
People have been using the threaded cog and reverse locking since the very earliest days... old coaster hubs also use the same system and are constantly subjected to back pedaling to engage the brake.
99% of the failures are due to improper installation. In this case the hub was probably a POS and bet it falls under the category of people trying to make a part as light as possible to save a few grams of weight. |
Originally Posted by bionnaki
(Post 10400467)
ive never considered the miche system. is there any play? does play ever develop?
what tool would one use to initially tighten the carrier -- or do you simply tighten by hand? would you say this is a system that one would never have to use a chainwhip? I hate chainwhips. how are the cogs? on par with eai, surly, da, etc? |
Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
(Post 10400475)
People have been using the threaded cog and reverse locking since the very earliest days... old coaster hubs also use the same system and are constantly subjected to back pedaling to engage the brake.
99% of the failures are due to improper installation. In this case the hub was probably a POS and bet it falls under the category of people trying to make a part as light as possible to save a few grams of weight. I basically agree that most failures of the reverse-thread lockring system are due to improper installation, but I'd call that a weakness of the design: it is too easy to install it improperly. |
Originally Posted by TwoShort
(Post 10400646)
but I'd call that a weakness of the design: it is too easy to install it improperly.
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Originally Posted by operator
(Post 10400602)
The system sucks ass. Play eventually develops between the carrier and the cog, producing noise. Which means replacing the carrier and cog when that happens. Seen it enough times to tell you that it's only useful under specific situations where cog changes need to be very quick.
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