Fedex is saying I should receive the bike on Friday 3/5. I won't be able to post pics until Monday at best because I'll be on a snowboarding trip this weekend.

I have been doing a lot of research into parts and such while waiting on this thing to arrive. I haven't bought anything yet obviously, but I seem to be going back and forth about which crankset I should get, assuming I wont refurb the old one. So, what's a good crankset to get for, say, $80-$100? None of that colored crap...shiny polished metal is nice.

I received the bike this weekend and will be posting pictures when I get home from work this evening. I have figured it to be a '77 or '78 UO-8 based off emblems, decals, and the old catalogs found here https://www.cyclespeugeot.com/

I started disassembly last night and most of it went fairly easily, I'm just left with the bottom bracket and cranks. I figure I'll need a BB tool, but how do I get the cranks off?

cheers

you need to use a crank puller. These can be found at any LBS or at a bike co op, which I'm sure you have somewhere in Boston. When you use the crank puller, make sure to put plenty of grease on the threads. Also make sure to thread it in fully. Stripping those threads sucks.

I'm assuming you've got cottered cranks- you need to knock the pin out of each crank before pulling the crank off.

Edit: forgive my lack of a link to Sheldon

Incorrect. The OP's bike has cottered cranks.

See here >>>> https://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/cotters.html

Anyone ever done Sheldon's method? Seems like there's lots of room for error. If you've got tips, I'm listening.

I've never felt the desire to salvage or re-use a set of cottered cranks, nor have I ever worked on any that were particularly valuable, so careful hammer blows sound OK to me. I've also used narrow, blunt tools directly on the cotter pin, and blocks of wood are always good at preventing scratches.

edit: spelling

I won't be reusing the cranks.....so I don't need to worry about damaging anything? Aside from missing and damaging the frame

Hah, you don't need to swing it like a pickaxe- just tap it. Hopefully it'll slide right out.

Why yes, my dad is a communist. We don't get along that great, btw.

Yes...I've tried Sheldon's method and it worked after some pretty heavy pounding. Since you're not using the BB again, pound away.

Just make sure and use a support as Sheldon suggests.

As long as you don't miss and damage your kneecap, fingers or genitalia, you should be fine.

Pictures:

More:



I'm still having trouble understanding how to get the cranks off...

u need a crank puller
EDIT: like this.

Looks like PedallingATX called it. I assumed a cottered crank, based on the supposed age.

A crank puller is a good investment for working on all but the newest bikes.

No, not like that, actually.

The OP's crank appears to be pre-1982 Stronglight, which means a unique puller (23.35mm x 1.0 thread vs 22.0mm x 1.0):

Well, if it were a 1977 or 1978 UO8, then it would have a steel cottered crank. It might be something like a UO9 or UO10 that came with aluminum 3-pin cotterless cranks.

OP - What size socket did you need to remove the bolt? If it was 16mm hex, then JohnDThompson is correct and you will need a 23.35mm puller. The required tool is a Var 11

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/var/pages/var0014.html

Nope...I used a 14mm

it does seem to fit the description of the U09 very well.

thinking ahead...thoughts on this wheelset? https://www.bicyclewheels.com/merchan...egory_Code=FGW

Well, in that case it is probably a post-1982 Stronglight crankset, which will use a standard 22mm crank puller. These are much easier to find than the old 23.35mm pullers.

The only thing I don't like about those wheels is that the rear hub has a super-long rear axle so you can use it with a frame with 130mm rear dropout spacing. This means that on your frame, which probably has 120mm dropouts, you will have a lot of axle sticking out. This looks goofy, and can actually be a hazard.

What are these measurements? I have a digital caliper to measure with. Is it the inner diameter of the cranks...seen here: