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It is the size of the internal threads that are inside your cranks at the axle. If you use the inside diameter part of your calipers, you will get slightly less than 22mm, like maybe 21.8 to 21.9mm as a measurement. If it were 23.35mm, then you would get about 23.1 to 23.2mm.
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Originally Posted by Kenneth
(Post 10500348)
Nope...I used a 14mm
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Crank internal thread diameter measured 21.2mm
Rear dropouts measured 121mm Things to purchase, crank puller and wheelset Once I get the crank off and do some double checking measurements, I plan to purchase a crankset (suggestions?) and the VO french threaded BB I will go 1/8 inch for the chain |
Originally Posted by Kenneth
(Post 10505586)
Crank internal thread diameter measured 21.2mm
Rear dropouts measured 121mm Things to purchase, crank puller and wheelset Once I get the crank off and do some double checking measurements, I plan to purchase a crankset (suggestions?) and the VO french threaded BB I will go 1/8 inch for the chain |
I'm thinking of going with this Mavic wheelset...I'll mostly be commuting and I'm trying to keep things on a budget http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...d&productId=22
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Yeah, Mavic wheels....keep the French theme. I've got roughly the same bike. I kept the original Stronglight cranks, though.
As for getting the cranks off, I wouldn't purchase a crank puller for a one time use like this. Large flathead screwdriver between the outside of the BB cup/lockring and the inside of the crank arm works. Couple taps to get it started, then a couple bangs to knock it off. |
Originally Posted by Kenneth
(Post 10506827)
I'm thinking of going with this Mavic wheelset...I'll mostly be commuting and I'm trying to keep things on a budget http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...d&productId=22
I bought these. And I bought an Eighthinch 165mm 46T crankset in silver |
Originally Posted by Kenneth
(Post 10506827)
I'm thinking of going with this Mavic wheelset...I'll mostly be commuting and I'm trying to keep things on a budget http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...d&productId=22
I used this crank puller on my '77 Gitane Gypsy Sport, and it sounds like it would work for you also. Did I tell my story about my Gitane having an English threaded bottom bracket on this thread yet? Don't assume French threading on low-end French bikes. Remove the adjustable cup first and then look inside and you should be able to see the threads on the fixed cup, like this: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3587/...f761da10f2.jpg The fixed cup can be a major pain to remove. Mine had some non-standard-sized edges that didn't fit any of the tools at the LBS. I ended up making a tool based on Sheldon's tips and about $3 in parts from the local hardware store. It looked like this with the cup still clamped in: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3629/...29fb211b_o.jpg This picture of the top washer after I was done may give you an idea how much force was required to get it off: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3614/...29fb5d3c_o.jpg You don't want to apply that kind of force in the wrong direction! |
Thanks for the advice Andy_K. I actually almost bought the VO French Threaded BB today but then thought I should wait until I got the cranks off and could get a good look at the threads
hopefully this doesn't get too difficult... although that would add more of a sense of accomplishment |
I converted my UO8 a year ago. I used the Shimano UN72 bottom bracket, removed the cups, and bought Phil french thread ones. This was before Velo Orange offered their BB.
Other than that, the only other hard thing was the stem. It needs to be 22mm. I bought a Origin8 22.2mm stem, and just used sandpaper to sand off the extra .2. Easy I had some random Promax seatpost sitting around, but it was too large. I went over to the shop and used a lathe to cut it down for fun. Check it out:Peugeot UO8 And I have since updated it to this: Peugeot UO8 Revision |
I would get these wheelsets http://cgi.ebay.com/700C-ROAD-BIKE-T...item2eab10a130
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Originally Posted by shubonker
(Post 10509152)
I would get these wheelsets http://cgi.ebay.com/700C-ROAD-BIKE-T...item2eab10a130
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Originally Posted by rustybrown
(Post 10507119)
As for getting the cranks off, I wouldn't purchase a crank puller for a one time use like this. Large flathead screwdriver between the outside of the BB cup/lockring and the inside of the crank arm works. Couple taps to get it started, then a couple bangs to knock it off.
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Originally Posted by Kenneth
(Post 10508579)
hopefully this doesn't get too difficult... although that would add more of a sense of accomplishment
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If you don't want the derailleurs, I would be happy to give them a new home... ;D
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Originally Posted by xavier853
(Post 10508839)
Other than that, the only other hard thing was the stem. It needs to be 22mm. I bought a Origin8 22.2mm stem, and just used sandpaper to sand off the extra .2. Easy
I had some random Promax seatpost sitting around, but it was too large. I went over to the shop and used a lathe to cut it down for fun. Nice ride though
Originally Posted by Six jours
(Post 10509382)
Can't believe the peanut gallery is going to let that one by without comment.
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Originally Posted by Mos6502
(Post 10509992)
If you don't want the derailleurs, I would be happy to give them a new home... ;D
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Originally Posted by Andy_K
(Post 10508176)
Did I tell my story about my Gitane having an English threaded bottom bracket on this thread yet? Don't assume French threading on low-end French bikes. Remove the adjustable cup first and then look inside and you should be able to see the threads on the fixed cup, like this:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3587/...f761da10f2.jpg The fixed cup can be a major pain to remove. Mine had some non-standard-sized edges that didn't fit any of the tools at the LBS. I ended up making a tool based on Sheldon's tips and about $3 in parts from the local hardware store. It looked like this with the cup still clamped in: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3629/...29fb211b_o.jpg This picture of the top washer after I was done may give you an idea how much force was required to get it off: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3614/...29fb5d3c_o.jpg You don't want to apply that kind of force in the wrong direction! So, how exactly do I determine if the current BB is a French thread? |
Bro you like pretty old for 25
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Originally Posted by Noir Lethal
(Post 10517672)
Bro you like pretty old for 25
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Originally Posted by Kenneth
(Post 10517540)
So, how exactly do I determine if the current BB is a French thread?
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You are almost guaranteed to have a french thread with that model UO8.
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
(Post 10517808)
The difference in diameter and thread pitch between French and English threading is tiny, so it is very difficult to tell by measurement. The big difference is that the right side fixed cup threads are left-hand threaded on English and right-hand threaded on French. So, if your current right BB cup unscrews counter-clockwise, then it is French, and if it unscrews clockwise, then it is English.
does this seem peculiar to anyone else? the crank seems to be a post 82 stronglite crank but the frame is definitely pre 1980, and the bb is an english thread? i guess i'm a little confused as to what model peugeot this is, I thought it was a 78 UO9... |
Originally Posted by Kenneth
(Post 10546042)
finally got the right side bb cup off today. it unscrewed by turning clockwise, so this is an english thread, right?
does this seem peculiar to anyone else? the crank seems to be a post 82 stronglite crank but the frame is definitely pre 1980, and the bb is an english thread? i guess i'm a little confused as to what model peugeot this is, I thought it was a 78 UO9... |
not done yet, but it was a nice day out, so I had to get a picture.
still want to wrap bars, get a new saddle, and a front brake http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/...cf78406a_o.jpg |
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