OK, picture an ordinary cassette hub.

Now picture the freehub permanently molded to the main body of the hub - i.e. "fixed." In other words, the hub and the free hub are one piece of metal.

Now, picture the formerly-free hub part only about 1/2" wide. Maybe the other side of the hub is just like this too.

What you have is fixed hub that uses ordinary cassette cogs or BMX cogs that slide on to the hub just as they would if you were running a cassete hub as a singlespeed.

No more threads to strip. No more lockrings. No more "grease or loctite" debates.

But best of all, you have a hub with an adjustable chainline. No more worrying about bottom bracket spindle width or needing to get different cranks whenever you got a new rear wheel.

Am I missing something or why hasn't the industry given us this?

A few reasons sprung to my mind-

• The splines of standard cassette cogs are not big enough and not designed for the forces fixed gear riding would exert on them.
1) Also, cassette cogs are tapered to aid in shifting, fixed cogs are a different shape since you do not want the chain to easily slide off of the teeth.
2) If not using standard cassette cogs you'd need a new standard which = proprietary (which = expensive)

• Weight. Adding bunch of extra metal to the hub to make the chain line adjustable would add a significant amount of weight to the hub.

• Since chain line can already be adjusted at the BB using spindle length there is not much market for a hub with adjustable chain line.
1) Why buy an expensive custom hub and have it built into a wheel when a new $25 BB could solve 95% of chain line issues?
2) Would the hubs be 120mm spaced, 130mm spaced, 135mm spaced, or would you provide all 3?

• As for "stripped cogs" and "stripped lockrings" these are usually the result of improper installation and not a flaw in the design of that system. Lots of people have been riding traditional cog/lockring setups for a long time and most of us have never had these issues.

• If you can't or just don't want to worry about threaded cogs and lock rings, Miche makes a thread on 'carrier' for their proprietary cogs (somewhat similar to what you describe but it still uses threads and is designed to simplify changing gearing at the track) or you can get Tommy cogs which use the standard 6 bolt brake disc mounts to screw to the hub.

One more thing...

DO NOT ACCEPT ANY BIKE MECHANIC ADVICE FROM ANYONE WHO TELLS YOU TO LOCTITE YOUR COG OR LOCKRING!

The only time locktight is recommended is on suicide hubs that do not use lockrings. (And even this is sketchy advice at best) All other cogs/lockrings should be greased (or treated with a non-grease anti-seize compound) prior to installation.

I remember having this same discussion about 5 years ago when there were a lot less hubs on the market. I assumed it was that the Shimano spline design is owned by Shimano and licensed to those who use it. Also, durability. If the hub is Alu then the splines would be too. Most hubs that I've seen with Alu splines have groves in them from cassettes. I think the interface would get sloppy quickly.

If you like the idea then check out the Miche carrier system.

There can be play in splined set-ups---- it just is obscured by the freehub action. Also, there have been splined track designs before--- and none have caught on.

I really do not understand the problem that is solved here. Furthermore, on the track, no one uses lock rings anyway.... and that is what the equipment is designed for.

Basically, there's nothing wrong with the traditional system if set up properly, which is pretty straight forward and easy to set up.

White Industries splined track hub:







https://www.whiteind.com/trackhubset.html

Also Easton EC90 TKO >>> https://www.eastonbike.com/PRODUCTS/W...O_'09.html

I use a lockring on the track. So do the majority of the people I race/train with. Yes, there are a few who don't, but the vast majority do.

A properly mounted lockring does not need loctite to perform properly, may i add.

https://pmpbike.net/bike.php/p-6x41x1...ar-Hub-Kit.htm