spcialzdspksman

What pedals/cleats work with these shoes?

They have an older diamond four-bolt pattern on the sole, but I couldn't find any info on them online, only two or three bolts. Do they work the same as the triangle three-bolt ones?

Will they work with SPD pedals/cleats? What other systems are they compatible with? Thanks.

TejanoTrackie 

They'll work with everything, Look, SPD, SPD L etc. You just use different threaded holes for different style cleats.

F4UX3/2

link fail- it takes you to an auction has ended page

anyway someone correct me if I'm wrong but, I think the diamond pattern is to make it compatible with more than one cleat bolt pattern.

I would imagine spd's or keo's (both have the same bolt pattern) would work just fine, if you can mount the cleats on the shoes you're good (proper cleat position aside).

spcialzdspksman

Um, I kind of bought them...so it might have ended the auction, so maybe...it isn't fail anymore?
Idk, get back to me on that one

spcialzdspksman

Alright, thanks!

carleton

I don't think SPD will work. SPD-SL and LOOK will.

SPD are two hole about 1.5 inches apart:

carleton

spcialzdspksman, next time check with us BEFORE you buy. You just bought some guys 2-3 year old shoes that have seen MUCH better days. A new pair of Shimano basic shoes will probably perform better. You can buy replacement heel pads and ratchet tongue thingys, but that adds $25 to your purchase price.

TejanoTrackie 

Yeah, you're right. My bad.

Raiden

I disagree- I think it looks like LOOK/SPD-sl and whatever might use that rear-most bolt hole (Speedplay?). 2-bolt SPD and flat road shoes are a bad combination anyway, IMO- you can walk better with three-hole cleats (especially the models with rubber corners), and you won't destroy floors. If you're going to sacrifice practicality, then maximize your transmission of power.

Edit: slow Edit: spd-sl, not spd-r

spcialzdspksman

Yea, I probably should have. I kind of fell for the look, really wanted a pair of Sidis, and these looked so much cheaper in comparison to the $150-200 new Sidi Dominators/Genius.

I'm wondering, in what way would have the Shimano shoes (as ugly as they are) perform better? I thought it was all in the stiffness of the sole, and I don't believe that has been compromised in these yet.

Also the new heel pads are only about $10/pair

Uh-oh, SPD won't work? Good thing I haven't bought my pedals yet. I was about to go get some cheap used SPDs from some guy on CL in an hour, but looks like that's not going to happen.

So what would actually work guys? SPD sl, Look...?

Raiden

Well, hey, a cheap set of SPD pedals are a nice thing- they're an unkillable pedal and will likely outlive you, if you toss them in your parts bin.

The problem with (nearly) all pedals is the cleats- at a shop, they have a ridiculous markup, and often cost almost as much as a whole new cheap pedal/cleat package online. SPD-sl/LOOK cleats are plastic and pretty easy to wear down, especially if you walk on asphalt.

Buying a new set of pedals (that will include the cleats) isn't a bad way to go when you're starting out.

spcialzdspksman

Hey thanks Raiden, but I'm really low on my budget now, so every dollar saved counts!

Alright guys, I found this:


"Sidi's Millennium 2 soles combine rigidity with lightness and comfort. Plus, they feature replaceable heel pads for durability. They are compatible with Look and SPD cleats, and can be outfitted with Sidi adapters to accept SPD-R and Time cleats, too (adapters and cleats sold separately)."
https://togabikes.com/product/feature...9522-30110.htm

Except the only difference is on mine, the two slots in the center are
absent...

kringle

I'd get some old Look pedals and get some rubber cleat covers so you can walk around.

spcialzdspksman

It sure looks like this is my only option.
The pattern looks like it will only accept Look or SPD SL, which sucks because they look like they really won't hold up for my brakeless skidding.

kringle

You can get some older style Look pedals, non-keo, on craigslist/ebay for crazy cheap. Plus, there are plenty of brands that still make cleats at low prices.

I think Look cleats hold up fine, in terms of wear from pedaling. The chunks I'd lose would come from walking around without covers

carleton

All soles break in and give over time. I would guess that these shoes have several thousands of miles on them.

This sole isn't carbon fiber, just a hard plastic composite, just like the Shimanos. A new plastic composite sole will undoubtedly be stiffer and "fresher" than one with thousands of miles on it.

Sidis are expensive because of the Lorica (fake leather) upper which is really soft and supple. I have some Sidi Genius 5s and I actually prefer my Bont A2s which have a very stiff upper. Not as plush, but waaaay better for getting rid of the flex that shoes have during the upstroke.

SPD is a MTB standard. These are road shoes. Road shoes are built to a LOOK standard. Interestingly enough, the entry level Shimano Road shoes are drilled for 3-bolt (LOOK, SPD-SL) and 2-bolt (SPD). Probably because of guys in your situation, just getting into the game.

Did you know that SPD = Shimano Pedaling Dynamics?

Yes, the heel pads are $10, but I think the ratchet tongues are also another $10+. Then if you need new ratchets...

carleton

And that is precisely why you cant use SPD.

carleton

No, LOOKs are not your only option. SPD-SL are an option, too. You can get Shimano PD-R540 from Performance for $50 WITH new cleats. $70 at REI. Keep in mind that if you buy used you will STILL have to buy fresh cleats. Cleats cost $25-30. So, it's just smarter to buy new in this case.

These pedals will hold fine for skidding. Just set the spring tension to medium or high. I've done it, no problem.

Shimano SPD-SL cleats have "pontoons" on the side of them to keep the spot where it engages the pedal from actually touching the ground when walking. Only the yellow parts touch the ground when walking. They are made of hard rubber for grip.

spcialzdspksman

Will these change anything?

Raiden

Neat gizmo. That'll work, but its a band-aid- I would suggest just sticking with something in a three-hole pattern for now.

the_don

just get the spdsl's. They are pretty awesome, much better than spd. Skidding is easy as pie with them. and no matter how hard you pull up, they won't release by accident.

they are great!

yellow one's have a little float. red ones have zero float (i prefer zero float)

Raiden

A good point for a fixed-gear- LOOK/SPD-SL is ridiculously good at keeping you attached to the bike.

spcialzdspksman

Is there an actual down side?
I'm really wanting SPD because I hear they're good for skidding because it's harder to pop out of, them SPDs basically being MTB pedals and all...

SPD SLs are better than SPDs for skidding? Are you sure?
because I've seen LOOKs, which resemble those SLs, and they seem like they would be pretty easy to come out of.
But if they are, then I'll def go for the SL.

Also if I do get the SPD SLs, will I need an extra adapter plate?
This guy, who has the same bolt pattern on his sole, seems to have mounted his SLs with an adapter because someone there said it would be dangerous w/o it. (although the adapter in pic is the wrong plate)

carleton

I also agree. But, the biggest benefit of the SPD-SL/LOOK pedal and cleat, is that they provide a big platform for power transfer.

All clipless pedals are not created equal. Yes, the essentially do the same thing, but in much different ways. MTB pedals are designed to shed mud first because if they can't deal with mud, no MTB/CX rider will ever use them. The second factor is making them easy to get in and out of because MTB/CX riding involves LOTS of high-speed hopping on and off the bike. This is why they are all double-sided. Float is not a priority in MTB pedals. Yes, they have float, but it's not a priority when engineering them. There are very few cleat placement (fore/aft, left/right & angle) options.

Road pedals, on the other hand, have different priorities. Power transfer is the first. This is why the platforms are wider. Cleat placement is the second. You can adjust the cleat fore/aft, left/right, and set the angle. Float is the third. These are important because they are made for people riding repetitively for several hours at a time.

If you are a bike messenger getting on and off the bike several times an hour, go with MTB style. If you are a commuter, city rider, student where you get on when you start your ride and get off when you get to your destination and only get off a few times an hour (stop lights and what not) then go with road.

I've owned both styles and happened to own TIME ATAC and Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL on two different bikes at the same time. I rode the bike with Ultegra pedals for a few weeks then one day decided to go for a 1hr ride on the bike with the TIME pedals and man...those pedals felt primative compared to the road style pedals. It was night and day. Like Mono to Stereo, B&W TV to Color.

I don't get benefit from you getting one kind of pedal over the next. I'm just passing on my experiences.

carleton

SPD-SL is better than SPD. PERIOD. It is an evolution of technology. The fact that SPD is a MTB pedal doesn't make them stronger or more resistant to pulling out.

Yes. They are. Trust me. You are going off of what you have read. I'm going off of my personal experiences. I have owned every pedal system that has been mentioned in this thread plus several others.


No.