rgoo92

would you rather use 700x35 or 700x23

what would be pros/cons of each?

could you use a 35 in the back and a 23 up front?

cnnrmccloskey

Thats a pretty big difference in tire size, why do you want to go for a 23 and a 35?

I generaly ride a 25 rondo in the back and a 23 rubino in the front

sooprvylyn

it is a pretty big difference in size, you probably dont need that much difference. You can ride whatever tires work best for you. I'd start with 2 tires the same and figure out whether you need better steering or more power transfer, and then go up maybe 2-4mm width on 1 tire if you feel like you need it.

Squirrelli

Yay rgoo again.
First of all, 700c wheels could accept a range of tires (20, 23, 25, 28, 32 yadi yada) depending on the interior rim width. Here's a width chart!
And read this page as well for tires. Tires!
You can use any combinations you want but it might not be practical to have that much difference though. Skinnier tires has less contact with the road which reduce rolling resistance, the lower the resistance the less energy it takes to keep your wheel rolling. Wider tires will absorb some shock on the road. It really is a matter of your opinion and the uses. If you are planning to carry a lot of stuff, you will need wider tires, if you want fast street riding, you might want some skinnier ones. Also, some tire companies are not honest about sizing their tires. You will read about it on those sites I gave you.
I prefer a set of 23's and others might prefer slightly wider ones.

powers2b

When I was carfree in Cleveland I used 700x23's in the summer and 700x38 knobbies in the winter.
So I would say the size of the tire depends on your individual traction needs.
Oh, and whatever looks cool right?

Enjoy

Retro Grouch 

I don't think that you have that quite right.

Start with air pressure. 100 psi means that it will take one square inch of road contact to support 100 lbs. Basically, regardless of tire size, at equal air pressure the contact area will be about the same.

The shape of the contact patch, however, changes. A wide tire will have a relatively wide contact patch and a skinny tire's contact patch will be long and narrow. Now take an unmounted bike tire and try to flatten a section of the tread. As you pedal your bike, a different section of tread is constantly being flattened as the tire rotates down the road. The effort that it takes to flatten the tread can only come from you. That's the tire's rolling resistance. At the same air pressure skinny tire with a long narrow contact patch has to deform more than a wide tire and consequently will have more rolling resistance.

Of course, that assumes that all other things are equal and they never are. Fat tires won't hold as much air pressure as skinny ones. I think that's because wide tires have more square inches for air pressure to push against and, consequently, more pounds of force trying to blow it off of the rim.

To minimize rolling resistance, you want a tire with a real supple sidewall that will deform with a minimum of energy. Unfortunately, you'll have to give up some cut resistance to gain that suppleness.

A skinny tire will allow you to run higher air pressures. Higher pressure means less tire deformation and less rolling resistance. You'll be faster provided the road is very smooth but you'll lose some speed on the bumps.

A fatter tire will allow you to run lower air pressures without paying a rolling resistance penalty. That will give you more "cush" and your bike will be more comfortable to ride.

mihlbach

This isn't really true. Contact patch is determined by your weight and PSI, not tire size. Larger tires tend to be ridden at lower PSI, hence the larger contact patch. However, a tire ridden at a constant PSI has the same contact patch regardless of the width or diameter of the tire. Technically a bigger tire run at the same PSI as a skinnier tire actually has less rolling resistance, because the tire deforms less to maintain the same contact patch. But it is heavier and less aerodynamic so there are tradeoffs.

I think the best advice for the OP, would be to start somewhere in between...say a 28, and start to develop preferences from there.

Good luck!

rgoo92

is it bad if i said i wanted a tire that skids farther

and if im buying a a wheel that originally has a 35mm wide tire, does that mean when i replace the tire i can only use 35mm sized tires? i havent thouroughly read thru all your posts yet but i will when i get more time. kinda busy atm

edit:
k wait reading all posts now, and i just answered my own question

"Although you can use practically any tire/rim combination that shares the same bead seat diameter, it is unwise to use widely disparate sizes."

Squirrelli

Oh...embarrassed now...
Thank you for correcting me, I forgot the higher the PSI, the less contact the tire will have with the road...

rgoo92

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width

vixtor! what is interior rim width?! which one does 700cc fall under? or do you knwo forsure that its 20/23/25,28,32?


and i know i asked this before but just to make sure.
story: after picking up my new fixed rear wheel, ill have my old wheel+tires/tubes left over.
question: Will i be able to use the tires/tubes from my old freewheel (700x23) onto my new fixed rear wheel (700cc, currently has 35mm)

Squirrelli

The inner rim diametre determines what range of tire you can fit.
I am not certain that if you will be able to fit a 23 tire on it, check the wheel's dimension online somewhere.
Do you know what brand and model rim is it going to be?
You might be able to fit a 28 tire on it though. Check the chart again.

Retro Grouch 

Not something that I have any experience with but I'd think that a narrow tire with a lot of air pressure will produce longer skids.

prathmann

I happen to be using a 23mm tire in the front and a 35mm one in the back of my touring bike at the moment. Not because I see some performance advantage, but because I wanted to put my front fender on and it wouldn't fit with the 35mm tire. Happened to have a 23mm one lying around so I put it on instead of going out and buying a 28 mm which would also have fit under the fender. I've now had this mismatched tire combination on the bike for the last 4 months and about 3000 miles and haven't noticed any problem with it. As Sheldon notes, the table showing rim and recommended tire widths is very conservative and many combinations outside of the recommended range will still work fine. The 23mm tire is shown as being too narrow for my front rim and Sheldon wrote that this could result in slightly greater susceptibility to pinch flats. But so far I've been fortunate in not getting a single flat from any cause in these 3000 miles on this bike. [The chart also says the 35mm tire is too wide for the rear rim, but that hasn't caused any problems either.]

So to rgoo, go ahead and put a 35mm wide tire on your rear wheel if you want. As long as you have enough clearance in the brakes and frame for it you should be fine. And generally the wider tire will come with a thicker tread which should make it more durable when skidding (but I agree that the longest skids would be with a narrow tire pumped to very high pressure). For that matter, if you do have enough clearance, there are plenty of even wider 700c tires - the mountain bike 29" size is the same diameter rim, so there are plenty of 700c tires that are over 50mm wide.

continental88

I'm using 27 X 1 1/2 in front and 700 X 28 in back!

rgoo92

sweet i love you guys so much no ****. full of knowledge haha

all i know so far about the tire is that it was handbuilt with dt swiss spokes, and velocity hub

and it currently has a 700x35 tire on it. i think im going to buy his wheel only and start with a 28 sized tire (ill keep that in mind that a 23/35 is in fact fine)

its jus so weird how that works out because i was lookin at my wheels before i came inside and i cant possibly imagine how anythign bigger than a 23mm will fit on my 700 rim. like the tire fits it perfectly @ 23.