I am curious, did you order a Kilo TT frameset off of Bike Island or did you pick up a complete in the states?

Huh. I find them easier, since swapping the stem doesn't affect the headset bearings.
There are a few out there with removable front plate.
Huh. I find them easier, since swapping the stem doesn't affect the headset bearings.
It's the outside of the steerer that needs to have threads cut.
Then of course, he'll need a headset also.

All told, I don't think I'd go to all the trouble, personally. Just get a shim and a stem and put the thing together. Then keep eyes peeled for killer deals on forks, stems and headsets and do the swap at a later date if you still really want to.

Not my first fixed gear.
I got the frame from bike island, funny enough their ebay store ships to canada, site does not.

we'll seeing how I'm building my bike to how I want it to look, I'm not going to buy a stem and headset then later on buy a threaded one and swap it, I'll do it from the start, I would of bought another frame that was already threaded but there isn't one thats $400 under new around here unless it's those ones that are worst quality than the kilo tt frame.
I haven't bought the frame yet but I don't see anything else in that class around that price. I'm sure it wont be such a big deal getting the forks steerer threaded anyway, and I plan on buying a nice nitto stem and shimano threaded headset

Think again.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...eading+steerer
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...eading+steerer

Some will tell you that it's no problem and they may even offer to do it for you. But it's not recommended.
How's your dental coverage?

Ah, thanks, i'll buy the kilo threaded fork too then if they sell it on the ebay site, guess I'll contact him
edit: if they had white in stock, and also they seem partially threaded so I'll need a shop to thread the rest to find the 1" quil and headset?

Just get your fork cut and threaded and buy a new headset.

Damn, problem solved! All you guys are acting so stupid!

"You need a new fork"

"Threadless sucks"

Just answer the guy's question and stop trying to impose your will on him! DAMN!

Yeah isnt it just the outside of the steer tube that needs to be threaded? No work should be done on the inside. And how much of the tube needs threading? Only the section that comes into contact with the top part of the headset correct?

Im also thinking of getting this done to my kilo, because most threadless stems looks awful on the 1" tube IMO, and Im trying to build a more "classic" looking bike. I bought a kilo frame off bikeisland, and would this headset fit with this stem on the kilo? Sorry if this is redundant/hijacking the thread.

Well from all the posts and threads i've been reading people are saying threading a non threaded fork is unsafe because its thinner metal than an alreaded threaded fork..

Okay, potentially dumb question since I live exclusively in threaded-steerer territory: On one of his personal rides, Sheldon Brown shows how he raised the bars on a threadless steerer without using spacers by securing the headset with a correctly-sized seatpost binder. If the ID of a given threadless steerer is already suitable for quill use, couldn't a person just use a binder to secure the fork and thereby swap to a quill stem without modifications?

Kilo Fork can be threaded. Mike decided not to leave the option open for people to have is both ways!

I have no idea why I said the inside of the steer tube. And yes there are quill stems with removable faceplates, and they are ugly as hell. So it defeats the purpose of going through the trouble of getting a quill stem.

Whatever, do what you want to with your bike, but with all this work and money to get a threaded stem you could have just bought an actual vintage track frame like this https://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Terry-Do...item3a5adb3d1f

But it's your money...

aliens are $399 and threaded

One hell of a guy, that Mike!!!

Oh, never heard of them before, is there a site that sells em that ships to canada?

Google is magical. I typed in 'alien bikes' and guess what came up?

https://alienbikes.com/

Bike Island also sells a nickel-plated, lugged frameset for 300 bucks.

Oh thanks, but for the price for the powder coated white I think i'll get the kilo and get it threaded at a shop

that's interesting. I wonder how much force quill stems put on the steer tubes when they're secured and if threadless steer tubes are up for it

but quill stem on a bike that allows threadless stem seems pointless to me. Quill stems look cool, no doubting that, but so do a lot of threadless stems. I'd go threadless on my FG bike if the frame didn't have a 1 foot head tube.

You're pouring a lot of effort/money into this bike for a $200 frame. D:

Well if they charge me $60 to cut and thread it, I don't see an extra $60 on top of my build being close or pouring, you can get a quil stem and threaded headset for the price of a threadless.

you ca get either one for real cheap...

Exactly my point

Sounds like you've got it all figured out. Have fun.

in theory, yes. in practice would be a little more complicated. the standard way of setting a threadless system involves using a top cap and star nut, applying the appropriate pressure to the system until you tighten the stem. this same method should be applied to securing the seatpost binder, which you would need spacers or a thick stem to do anyway. why sheldon would use a $10 seatpost binder instead of a few $.50 spacers is beyond me... anyway, if you did this, you would then need to remove the star nut or just hammer it all the way down the steertube to provide room for the quill stem. if you don't have a star nut it is VERY difficult to properly tighten a threadless headset.

IIRC, sheldon didn't use a quill stem. He had about 3" of steerer showing above the seatpost clamp. Some people say that that 3" of spacers is bad news.

He cites being able to adjust height without disturbing HS bearing adjustment as another benefit.

Here's the page, scroll down a bit.