I'm not referring to those of you with track ends and tensioners, but those who build up a frame with horizontal dropouts. (I know there are plenty of them out there, expecially on the FGG)

I've got the nuts that come with the Surly hub, with the rotating serrated grippy things, and crank them down, actually so hard that my dropout is toast, and can't keep it tight.

What's a girl to do until she can hack her frame apart?

Perhaps u need to use washers or spacers or get some new nuts or something.

Granted my bikes were all built for me by my LBS but i have never had slippage on either my fixed with a track lockring nor my SS with horizontal drops.

I would go with kurremkarm's suggestion of the extra washers. Haven't had any problems either with my locknuts. Nor with my QR when I was running one.

reg'lar nuts and washers always worked fine for me. serrated washers work well too.

Thats an odd problem. I am just using a QR on my rear w/ horizontals, and I take 2ft jumps and some good drops pretty regularly. I would think nuts would hold better. I guess make sure the mating surface of the nuts are clean and the dropouts are clean. Are the nuts chromed? That could be a problem, especially if the frame also has a slick finish. Try some tooth washers perhaps.

are you shure the wheel is slipping? maybe its the chain stretching. I though
my wheel was slipping until I tried a new chain. I was using a miche track chain
but when I changed gearing I had to get a new one. the guy in the bike shop
shopwed me the miche and one of the cheaper Izumi chains. without knowing
about my chain slacking problem he mentioned that the miche tends to stretch
faster so I tried the Izumi. I have had it for weeks now and havent readjusted the
wheel since.

put a little drop of LOC-TIGHT 495 on there that will solve the problem...

The answer is not locktite. You're wheels should stay tight without it.

Wheels slipping in the frame like this may be an indication that the dropouts are out of alignment with each other. You may want to take it to a shop and have the dropouts aligned. It is an easy, 10 minute job.

I used selective gearing and a half link for my perfect chainline on vertical dropouts, works even on the biggest drops on my single speed!!

I'll try to take a pic of my nuts (shut up!) and dropouts later on. I'm not sure what the extra washers you speak of would do...Where would I put them.

The nuts are chrome, but my dropouts definitely aren't a smooth surface. Actually, one dropout has a stainless insert, and the other is just plain steel (did have the insert at one time, I think) that used to have a derailler hanger but was bent, sawed off, all bent out of shape and misshapen. I did alot of bending and filing, but my buddies at the shop have never thought it was a problem, nor have they ever even made fun of me for it. Hmm.

Oh, yeah, you know what? I just thought of this, don't laugh here. It occured to me just as I was typing this, that my frame is 126, and my hub is 135, it fits fine, we just yank the dropouts apart and squeeze it in there. And yes, I did have this specifically built for this frame, essentially, but went with the 135 because I tend to lean toward nice, rugged frames, so it would work when I get something new. Actually, at the time, I was thinking of the Surly Karate Monkey.

Jeez, I wish I could ever stop babbling on here. So my point is that the pressure may be wanting to pop the wheel out, hence the constant forward movement.

I am almost positive it's not the chain stretching, because it is after every ride, too loose to feel comfortable riding a fixed gear brakeless with that loose of a chain. I have to readjust constantly. However, Sohi, that was a good idea!

Actually, Don D. locktite sounded real good for a few seconds there, until I read your post. Yeah, you're probably right. Darn.

That would be a definite benefit of vertical dropouts, for sure! Lucky bastard! (but what will you do when your chain stretches, hmmm)

Thanks guys, I may have solved my own problem, at least, partially.

That's gonna be part of the problem. Your dropout are now angled, not parallel to each other.

Leave it to me and my bike shop to do something like that!

For your problem, I prescribe a new frame. Building a new bike will probably take your mind off of some of the other things going on in life too...

You could just get a hub that's the right width and re-build the wheel, but that's not nearly as fun...

Hey SBL,

I have seen, on occasion, when someone will modify a bmx chaintug to work on a forward facing horizontal drop-out. I personally haven't done this, but I believe that it would just take some browsing at your LBS (A BMX-oriented LBS) and a little filing to make things work. A dash of creativity may be helpful also. There are plenty of them out there that are cheap; $8-10 a pair.

Hey Here,
I actually did pick up a new frame Friday, which will solve my carpel tunnel problem, but not the tension problem (still forward facing dropouts). But my wrists were more important. I'll have to respace the frame and I guess I'll make sure the dropouts are parallel, too! If I end up liking the bike (whenever it gets built), I'll probably put proper dropouts on it..

SSP,

I can't picture it! Hmm

It may be a dropout alignment issue as previously mentioned. I've exclusively used old road frames, with horizontal dropouts. With the stock nuts, I had to periodically correct the chain tension, but when using track nuts, I've never had to. As it sounds like you have track nuts, you may want to consider looking elsewhere for the problem.

And if you're using a 135mm hub overlocknut dimension, make sure the rear dropouts are spaced/coldset to at least 132.5mm width before aligning the dropouts.

Damn, and here I've been buying gloves and double wrapping my bars on that issue. Least now I've got an explanation for the old lady when Mr FedEx drops off that Surly 1x1 frame.

What illness/condition/bothersome problem will my Phil Wood Kiss Off hubs remedy?

Real funny there, wise guy.

You should understand, Mr. Typhoon.

I can't help with a justification for the wife (especially Phil Wood??), but I may be the one to load your frame in the trailer.

By the way, my frame was only $20, he he he.

How about a few drops of linseed oil.
It dries sticky and works to keep spokes tight...it could work there too.

Schwinn - I think that might be the curviest frame I've ever seen... I hope it works well for you.

sometimes you can narrow the spacing on a hub by putting thinner jam nuts and shoter cones on the axle. I have done this on a wheel and narrowed it by 6mm! or you can grind a bit off the top of the cones. SchwinnBL I hope that frame will work. Usually those old cruiser frames are about 110mm rear spacing.