1" threadless?
#1
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Cross Check, GT Outpost, Haro Z16, Trek 1000
1" threadless?
So I tried searching but only came up with info on stems, when what I am looking for is info on the pros and cons of the threadless steer tube sizes. Like why is the kilo tt 1" threadless over 1 1/8" threadless? Is there a noticeable difference in stiffness, strength and or performance?
also as a side question does anyone know of any classy (kinda quill stem-ish) threadless stems out there?
also as a side question does anyone know of any classy (kinda quill stem-ish) threadless stems out there?
#3
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From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride
1 1/8 is stiffer/stronger, and currently the industry standard. i don't really notice a difference but then again i haven't done an exhaustive double blind experimental procedure to care to find out.
you'll mainly see 1" threadless on older/steel/ti frames as steel frames use smaller diameter tubing.
v20 offers a nice, clean 1" threadless stem. i like threadless better than quill, anyway (flamesuit on).
you'll mainly see 1" threadless on older/steel/ti frames as steel frames use smaller diameter tubing.
v20 offers a nice, clean 1" threadless stem. i like threadless better than quill, anyway (flamesuit on).
#5
What kind of frame do you have? You won't be able to use a 1 1/8" fork with a frame that is designed for 1". You CAN use a 1" fork with a 1 1/8" frame, but it'll require extra parts, and the thin fork may look awkward paired up with the frame's burlier tubing. It's better to just use a fork with the appropriate steertube size.
Anyways, there are many more threadless stem options in 1 1/8", so it'll probably be easier to find one you like in that size. Just use it with a shim to run it with a 1" fork, if that's what your bike allows. Not uncommon.
I think the 3T mutant looks kind of quill-ish.
Anyways, there are many more threadless stem options in 1 1/8", so it'll probably be easier to find one you like in that size. Just use it with a shim to run it with a 1" fork, if that's what your bike allows. Not uncommon.
I think the 3T mutant looks kind of quill-ish.
Last edited by NateRod; 06-04-10 at 12:22 AM.
#6
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Cross Check, GT Outpost, Haro Z16, Trek 1000
the reason I ask is that I've been think of building up a kilo tt but the 1" fork is really the only thing holding me back... I'd like to have options for straight forks or a carbon fork, both of which I'm sure the selection is limited... And thus my other question as to the tt not having a 1 1/8"...
that mutant stem is exactly what I was thinking about! Do I want to know the price? LOL!
that mutant stem is exactly what I was thinking about! Do I want to know the price? LOL!
#7
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BikeIsland has both 1" carbon fibre fork and straight fork.
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1697
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1661
You do not want to know the price...your wallet will bleed and your credit card will explode catastrophically.
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1697
https://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_S...ls&ProdID=1661
You do not want to know the price...your wallet will bleed and your credit card will explode catastrophically.
#8
this is like the questions about steel and aluminum as frame materials.
the design has more to do with the material, or in this case, the size.
OS is stiffer and stronger if you make it to the same design specs and just upsize it, obvoiusly, because of the greater mass and area subjected to (presumably) the same stresses. however, it's also less aerodynamic.
for all intents and purposes, YOU won't notice a single difference... mostly because they design each to its own needs. TT bikes usually use a 1" hs to cut through the air... but until you're cat one i don't think you really need to worry about it. just get what you want, make sure everything fits, and if you need spacers use the right ones.
the design has more to do with the material, or in this case, the size.
OS is stiffer and stronger if you make it to the same design specs and just upsize it, obvoiusly, because of the greater mass and area subjected to (presumably) the same stresses. however, it's also less aerodynamic.
for all intents and purposes, YOU won't notice a single difference... mostly because they design each to its own needs. TT bikes usually use a 1" hs to cut through the air... but until you're cat one i don't think you really need to worry about it. just get what you want, make sure everything fits, and if you need spacers use the right ones.
#11
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Cross Check, GT Outpost, Haro Z16, Trek 1000
i know the event i just didnt know the kilo tt was aiming for that as a bike is all... The only reason I want the 1 1/8" is for ease of finding forks... $90 for the fork is a bit more than id like to spend... the other bike I was looking at was an Iro or a Scrambler.
#12
Nü-Fred
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From: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: Torelli Tipo Uno (stolen), Peugeot Nice, Mercier Kilo TT
#13
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My Gavin has a 1" threadless too. Stems are hard to find and I'll most likely get the Mutant. You see them ranging from $30-$90. The shorter, polished ones cost more than the colored, longer (130-140mm) ones.
Last edited by The Messenger; 06-04-10 at 08:58 AM. Reason: spelling
#14
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Bikes: No name fixie and a Fuji track
When I bought my Kilo TT it already came with the fork...1/4 of the way threaded so I had to finish it, but it came with it nonetheless. That being said, Although I have found a 1" threadless fork and headset through nashbar last year, you are pretty much limited to older steel forks and quill stems. Now, this is not bad. I bought the Kilo TT exactly for this reason: I like its classic vintage look, especially with that crowned fork.
I have to say I absolutely love this bike. I had a fuji Track before and for a sub $500 Taiwainese TIG weld with Track Geo (getting there at least) I can't but do more than highly recommend it.
I have to say I absolutely love this bike. I had a fuji Track before and for a sub $500 Taiwainese TIG weld with Track Geo (getting there at least) I can't but do more than highly recommend it.
#15
Surf Bum
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Pacifica, CA
Bikes: Lapierre Pulsium 500 FdJ, Ritchey breakaway cyclocross, vintage trek mtb.
#16
i know the event i just didnt know the kilo tt was aiming for that as a bike is all... The only reason I want the 1 1/8" is for ease of finding forks... $90 for the fork is a bit more than id like to spend... the other bike I was looking at was an Iro or a Scrambler.
The Scrambler is a good, cheap option. Have read mixed opinions on Iro's.
#19
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#22
admit it.
regardless, you're wrong. the WT came about three years after the TT and the kilo TT is a WIDELY accepted race name, which the bike was named for. the WT was simply a fun name they came up with after the success of the tt, which stands for time trial.
and i was not meaning to allude to the choice of a 1" headtube being for aero purposes on a kilo tt. it was because 1" was cheap, and they were making them threaded when they designed it.
#24
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: Leader 722TS, Surly Cross Check, GT Outpost, Haro Z16, Trek 1000
one thing about the kilo tt i really like is the oval drop tube and the overall look of the bike... A friend was thinking of buying a full bike and only wanted the parts so I was gonna get the frame set. So was gonna get a good deal on price but the fork issue bothers me. I mean I could live with it, just dont know if i want to, heh... still need to wait till july for the scramblers or maybe one of their new offerings. wish i knew what those were or at least some pics...
#25
the fork issue is a non issue. the kilo fork, aside from being heavy, is great. and if you want a racier fork, there are plenty of time trial options in carbon.
i honestly wouldn't ever get a scrambler. they're so SO bland.
i honestly wouldn't ever get a scrambler. they're so SO bland.







