I'm pretty new in terms of nice bikes (anything over $200) and had some questions. Here's some background: I will be going to OSU in Columbus, OH and commuting by bike throughout the year [maybe in rain and snow] (as well as riding in the suburbs of NJ when I'm at home). I'm 5'10" and 170 lbs. I'm thinking about getting a FG/SS because of their low maintenance and reliability. I've read as much as I can about FG/SS bikes but am wondering ...

1) In terms of the different of components needed to change a FG to SS and SS to a FG ... let me know if this is correct ... a FG needs a fixed cog + lock ring while a SS doesn't need those but only needs a freewheel, correct? And I need a flipflop hub to go between FG and SS?
2) Given the fact that I've never ridden a FG or SS bike (unless you somehow count the kids bike that can't reverse pedal and brakes/stops the back wheel when you pedal in reverse as a FG or SS), and that I will be using this bike as a commuter bike in a college campus, Columbus OH, and the suburbs of NJ ... which is better, FG or SS and why? I'm leaning towards SS because it'll allow coasting and avoid any pedals scrapping on tight turns.
3) Where do the brakes need to go for a SS or FG bike? Front or back? Or both?
4) I've never used any handlebars besides flat ones ... for you, was it difficult to adjust from flat to bullhorn or drop handlebars? And on a related note ... I assume that for flat or bullhorn handlebars use cross brakes while drop handlebars use drop brakes?
5) Drop handlebars can always be converted to bullhorn handlebars simply by cutting off the drop parts on each side right?
6) Is it reasonable to expect something like the IRO Mark V to be able to last me all 4 years of college without having any major problems (having to replace any parts for ex ... besides the tires maybe)?

I'd appreciate any help/tips I can get. Thanks!

1. You are pretty much correct and all you need is a flip flop hub to switch between fixed and singlespeed.

2. Try a bit of both, especially if you are planning to get a bike with flip flop hub.

3. On a fixed, front brake is basically all you need but you need two brakes for a singlespeed. Because if your front brake somehow failed, you still have a rear brake to stop yourself.

4. It won't be difficult to adjust. You can use a several different levers with bullhorns; you can use a cross lever or a drop bar too.

5. It can be done, I personally use a set of chopped road bars.

6. Mark V is a great bike, as long as you maintain it properly and don't do stupid **** with it, it will last you through college.

Get a good lock if you are going to lock it in the campus, use proper tools to do maintenance yourself, get a helmet and lights.

Thanks Vixtor, that was a perfect reply.

I tried to look for some threads on bike locks but didn't find a thing! Is a bike lock good enough to deter most thieves? Which security devices do you recommend? And is there anything else I can do if I have to leave my bike on a bike rack or chained to something (I see some ppl take off the saddle)? I'm sure college campuses are a great place for bike thieves =/.

I think most folks on here, including me, would recommend a mini u-lock. It is smaller, so you are more likely to carry it, and it isn't as easy to pry the thing apart as a regular sized u-lock is. If possible, I would see if you could lock the bike up inside with you. A lot of folks I knew in college would hang it on the wall over their beds, but you could probably find a laundry room or storage room to lock it up in.

If someone really wants your bike, or anything for that matter, they will get it. On every campus I have ever been to, however, 95% of bikes are locked with a cheap cable lock through the front wheel or something equally ineffective. In general, your bike doesn't have to be completely secure for thieves to leave it alone, just better than most of the other bikes on the rack.

https://www.missinglink.org/Pages/bike_locking

Google is your friend.

If you use a mini u-lock for the rear tire (instead of a regular one like in the link), you'll also need a cable to secure the front wheel instead of removing it. Depending on theft levels, you may also want to use a longer cable (or a short dedicated one) to secure your saddle, especially if it's a nice saddle, like a Brooks.

I personally use a Kryptonite NYFU lock, which is kind of ironic now since I no longer live in New York, and I always brought the bike inside when I did. Being indoors is the best security. U-lock or mini u-lock with cable is best when that option isn't available.

Sorry to bring this thread up again but I'm just figuring out all the logistics before I pull the trigger on an IRO Mark V (since I'm actually at OSU now). I had a couple of miscellaneous questions:

1) I'm trying to figure out which size to get ... 56 cm (31 in standover) or 59 cm (32 in standover). I just measured from the point between my legs to my pubic bone and it's 31.375 in. I'm guessing I should go with the 56 cm (31 inch standover) IRO Mark V? I'm 5'9.5" (to be exact) and 170 lbs if that helps at all.
2) Just to double check once again ... if I get the SS version of the IRO Mark V and ask for a cog and lockring ... I should be good to in terms of what I need to switch back and forth between FG and SS right? Also, having brakes on both front and back won't be a big deal if I decide to go with the SS setup?
3) Right now I think I may just go with a flat handlebar. But some time in the future I may try a nitto rb-021 or syntace stratos since I think I will like the bullhorn style. Since I am planning on getting a flat handlebar and thus cross lever brakes ... how do I arrange the brakes for the nitto and syntace when I try them out in the future ... cross lever brakes or drop lever brakes? Also, bar width will depend on my shoulder width right ... I measured my shoulder width to be 48.5 cm. I think the nitto rb-021 comes in 38, 40, 42, 44, and 46 cm handlebar sizes. Does that mean I should probably get the 46 cm size?
4) For crank size I have the choices of 165, 170, or 175 mm. From this website (https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm) I read about the 18.5% rule where if you take the length from the floor to the top of your femur and multiply by 18.5% you get the optimum crank size. The number for me using this rule was 159 mm. Should I go with 165 or 175 mm? Note that I have not yet decided between FG and SS and will probably be playing around with both.
5) I have three choices for cog freewheel tooth: 16, 17, or 18 tooth. I went and read this archived thread about it but still am unsure what the best would be: https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-437128.html ... I think sticking with a standard 16 is probably best and if it's harder than 17 and 18 then I'll just have to get stronger.
6) I have two choices for stem size: 100 or 110 mm. I'm not sure which one is better for me ... I assume with the 100 mm I will be crouched down more and with the 110 mm I will be more upright?

Any advice is appreciated!

1. I think the 56cm would suit you better since it has a shorter top tube than the 59cm.

2. Yup, throw a cog and lockring and you'll be set.

3. Levers choice depend on how long you stay at the flat/horn part.

3b. That's sounds really wide...you should try to measure it again.



4. Go with 165mm, no doubt about it.

5. Stock Mark V has a 46t chainring, 46/16 would be a rather tall ratio..it really depends on the terrain you live in and how strong you are, I live in a hilly area and I find the 46/17 slightly too tall for my liking. I've got 44/17, which is the perfect ratio for me.

6. Stem length depends on your reach, you'll be more stretched out with a longer stem and you'll be more crammed with a shorter stem...you decide.

Vixtor: Heh, thanks for the speedy and helpful advice. And yeah, I was measuring my shoulders wrong. I think I'm around 42.15 in ... although I'm sure I'd get a better measurement if I had someone measure it for me instead of doing kooky things measuring myself.

If you are planning to get a set of Rb-021, you should consider if you really want the levers all the way at the end of the horns. It's a lot of reach + drop, it'll be so inconvenient to reach it in case something happens. Then again, you could have a shorter stem to bring the horns closer to you but you'll be upright when riding on the flat part.

So going back to the stem length ... right now I'm more interested in a comfortable, slower, non-racing, more upright, relaxed ride ... I think the shorter stem (100 mm) fits this description better than the 110 mm? Is there any measurements/calculations I should do on myself to figure out which is better?

The 100mm stem will be a better choice than the 110mm if you want a more upright position.

There's a fit calculator on Competitive Cyclist that you can do, it'll give you a suggested top, seat tube lengths and stem length but it will be a 2 people job to record some of your measurements.

Thanks for the fit calculator ... it'll be useful for future builds.

One last option that is listed on the IRO website is "All Black Wheels with Orange Hubs and machined brake surface." Now what I've read from this thread: https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-615193.html ... unmachined is all about looks for those who don't use brakes while machined is for better braking (more friction when it's new/out of the box).

I will run a front and rear brakes (both when I try FG and SS I think).

1) Assuming I don't care about how my rims look it should be fine to go with unmachined and endure the break in period and less-than-stellar looks right?
2) If I do eventually care about how my rims look (and still run front and rear brakes) ... I would get machined?
3) When I change to FG can I / should I switch to front brake only (as opposed to both front and rear brakes) with the brake system IRO gives me?

1. Non machined sidewalls are fine for braking but it takes a while to wear the paint away, and braking will not be as sufficient when the paint is still in tact.

2. I would get machined sidewalls for both wheels, it is totally up to you though.

3. Until you know how to control your speed with your legs, you should leave your rear brake on even when you are on the FG side. Because fall is coming and the rain will be here as well, front-braking in the rain could lead in a nasty spill. During the winter, using front brake on snow/icy roads will most likely end in a really nasty fall, having a rear brake is a good option to modulate your speed. Of course, if you are planning to switch between FG and SS, then leave the rear brake on but if you are going go fixed permanently and learned how to control your speed with backpedalling, then just ditch the rear brake.

I actually got my IRO Mark V a few days ago, set it up (will be taking it to a local bike co-op for fine-tuning over the weekend), and have spent a few miles on it. For the most part I like it a lot but there are a couple of small issues that will require switching out the stock parts (like the seat being uncomfortable after a mile or so) but one thing I wanted to ask you was ... how can I make this bike handle bumps/gravely roads better. I noticed that any fissures/bumps/cracks/potholes/gravel/sand/etc can be acutely felt and you really need a smooth road for a smooth ride.

Do you think that getting fatter tires with some treads will help? Do you know if that means I will have to get new wheels as well as new tires? Any idea what the fattest tires the IRO Mark V can fit (I realize that I probably should email IRO but I figure I'd ask here anyway)?

I've been googling the tire and wheel size system for bicycles (https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html) and I'm still a bit confused on how it works.

Sidenotes: I got the FG version and bought a 17t freewheel ... but I only have front brakes. I have less than a half inch of clearance between the top tube and my crown jewels which is somewhat disconcerting ... I hope this is normal. I'll most likely switch to freewheel with a little help from the bike co-op and for convenience in commuting. I checked out this guys' IRO Mark V: https://velospace.org/node/8684 ... and he used https://www.ritcheylogic.com/dyn_prodfamily.php?k=98784 tires which come in 32C, 35C, 40C. Could I use these? Can I use any of those tire widths?