How are these?

https://cgi.ebay.com/EIGHTHINCH-CNC-T...#ht_2109wt_913

And on a slightly related note, how big of a difference in feel is 10 gear inches? I did a Chicago Critical Mass on 46/15 and I felt like my knees were going to explode. I'm debating between a 17, 18, and 19t cog. I don't skid, but I might start for the heck of it (18t only has 9 skid patches).

10 gear inches is HUGE. You may have seen the other thread where 2 g.i. made a huge difference. If you are going to spend $25, might as well get Surly cogs. They have good reviews and on par with Dura-Ace's.

Eighth Inch cogs are of very good quality. I've had one for well over a year.

These Origin8 cogs are very well made and have a reasonable price.

I have an EighthInch cog and lock ring. Only had em for a couple weeks but they seem very good. And they look good. And as mentioned above 10 G.I. is huge. I dropped about 8 G.I. and it made a world of difference. My legs don't get tired as fast and I'm actually able to stay at a more consistent speed.

Since you live in a pretty flat area a 19 tooth cog might make you spin out too quickly. I'd suggest getting a 17 tooth cog to start out with and then go up from there.

The eighthinch cogs are fine. Most all machined cogs are the same quality, so get whatever is cheapest or fits whatever other priority you might have.

try a 17 first.

also, maybe the problem is critical mass? A steeper gearing will feel much better at higher cadences, and the slow, crawling nature of critical mass would prob not be fun where so much "low end" torque is necessary...

Alright, thanks guys. I just put in an order for a 17t Eighth Inch cog. I dig the shiny black finish and those slots.

Should have waited a week eigthinch is giving a $15 off coupon on the 20th possibly a $20
https://www.eighthinch.com/like-a-thon.html

Btw if you haven't like the page like it so we can get $20 off coupons! and possibly a scrambler

Well... that sucks. I'll just like it, get a code (or something better!), and save it for the next purchase. Cool, thanks!

To me, 10 GI is really not that much to pedal. On a vintage 12 speed road bike it's basically the difference between odd or even gears. I run 46-16 on a 700 x 25 for the SS/FG, so that works out to 75.8 GI. On my 27" 12 speed, that's about 9th gear (73.9, 52-19), 7th gear is 63.38, 52-22. On a long incline in 110* F heat, of course that's a ball breaker, but flat land & after a few rides of pushing yourself and conditioning you'll be looking for more GI if you're after land speed records with it. I will add that on my 12 speed, 10th, 11th & 12th jump from 73.9 GI in 9th to 81, 87.8 & 100.3 for the final 3 speeds. Sometimes, I wish I had 52/42-12 with the road bike with a tail wind, it would give me 94.5 & 117 GI to work with too. That bike currently has 52-16 & 52-14 as the highest GI.

Where 10 GI makes a difference is how much more speed. With 7th gear on the road bike, I can get more rpm's and when I do that spinning, I feel more burn in the legs and get fatigued more easily. With 10 more GI, that matches a slower spin rate for me and while I can feel heavier legs, but there is no burning sensation from spinning faster.

With 52/12, you'll be going well over 30mph at around ~100rpm.

Seems like you're not liking the idea of pedalling at higher cadence, you should look into that. It is good for you.

I've always been like that though, that leg burn is way too painful to endure. Like weightlifting it's a burnout set and when the lactic acid builds up I'm pretty much done. My rides are 30+ mile loops, so I can't afford to be spent early in the ride and I try to distribute the workload throughout the marathon rather than in a sprint.

Oh, and as for cadence, I really haven't quantified it by measuring, just going by what feels better and that's why I'm glad I have the road bike with the gears so that I can physically do it by trial and error rather than having to take the bike apart and putting it back together with a SS/FG to experiment. When I bought the Vilano, it was a matter of comparing the GI computation. I think I could have probably gone with a 48T crank gear instead of 46T. While the GI matches the road bike, the Track bike is lighter, so pedaling it, I think I can get a few more GI and still be fine under certain land/road & wind conditions ? I guess that's where I'd have to fine tune and really start swapping gears, whether it be at the crank or rear wheel/hub ?

Whats up guys...I'm new to the fixed gears and just completed my first build, a 1978 Raleigh R-1 and it's turned out well! I have a 46/16 and skid stopping is extremely hard. I dont know much about gear ratios but if I get a 17t or 18t, skid stopping will be easier...right? Anyway, thanks for the help!