Good rims for everything?
#1
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Joined: Mar 2010
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Good rims for everything?
I need some rims that will hold up to whatever the city will throw at it. I will be using the bike for lots of commuting, riding around, and messing around in FGFS. I want some strong rims with eyelets and preferably machined sidewalls. I like...
Velocity Psychos but they are just too wide.
Sun CR18 but i hear they are weak
Mavic Open Pro but i hear they too are weak
Mavic XC 717 but I'm afraid they won't hold up
Any Help Please?
P.S. Lacing them to Profile Racing hubs and DT Champ spokes and alu nipples
Velocity Psychos but they are just too wide.
Sun CR18 but i hear they are weak
Mavic Open Pro but i hear they too are weak
Mavic XC 717 but I'm afraid they won't hold up
Any Help Please?
P.S. Lacing them to Profile Racing hubs and DT Champ spokes and alu nipples
#5
I've always liked aeroheads and they have been plenty strong, even used them without issue for CX racing.
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I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
#6
Oh, you know...
Joined: May 2009
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From: DC
Bikes: '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
I ruined an almost-new open pro front when I got clipped by some fat guy on an MTB and flew into a curb. Just about pulled one of the nipples through the rim.
I wouldn't get another one for city riding.
(By ruined, I mean it's got a little hop and a little bulging around one of the nipples, so I put it on one of my beaters and will continue riding it until it explodes).
I wouldn't get another one for city riding.
(By ruined, I mean it's got a little hop and a little bulging around one of the nipples, so I put it on one of my beaters and will continue riding it until it explodes).
#8
Oh, you know...
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,834
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From: DC
Bikes: '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
Probably this one, since it's the only one they make with a MSW.
https://shop.hplusson.com/product/sl42
https://shop.hplusson.com/product/sl42
#10
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Probably this one, since it's the only one they make with a MSW.
https://shop.hplusson.com/product/sl42
https://shop.hplusson.com/product/sl42
#15
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,345
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Any of those rims should be fine provided you don't insist on some silly low spoke count build.
Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother. I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.
There's nothing special about a welded seam. A properly built wheel is held together by the spokes. On weight-weenie wheels we used to take the pins out of pinned rims to save weight. Once built, the wheel works fine.
Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother. I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.
There's nothing special about a welded seam. A properly built wheel is held together by the spokes. On weight-weenie wheels we used to take the pins out of pinned rims to save weight. Once built, the wheel works fine.
#16
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Any of those rims should be fine provided you don't insist on some silly low spoke count build.
Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother.
I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.
Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother.
I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.
I was under the impression that brass nipples stripped out more easily than aluminum?
#17
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,345
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
That's what nipple washers are for: https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=SA-NWR
#18
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 26,345
Likes: 5,251
From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
#19
Any of those rims should be fine provided you don't insist on some silly low spoke count build.
Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother. I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.
There's nothing special about a welded seam. A properly built wheel is held together by the spokes. On weight-weenie wheels we used to take the pins out of pinned rims to save weight. Once built, the wheel works fine.
Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother. I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.
There's nothing special about a welded seam. A properly built wheel is held together by the spokes. On weight-weenie wheels we used to take the pins out of pinned rims to save weight. Once built, the wheel works fine.

I won't warranty a wheel if a customer asks for aluminium nipples... they are fluff.
Build wheels with a reasonable number of spokes and good base components and you should be good to go for a long time.
#22
nashcommguy
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,499
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From: nashville, tn
Bikes: Commuters: Fuji Delray road, Fuji Discovery mtb...Touring: Softride Traveler...Road: C-dale SR300
+1 When I went to single speed I laced up a 36h cr-18 w/an old Schwinn hub and it's still true...that was 3 years ago. Had a 32h cr-18 on the front from a touring bike I parted out(still have the frame). They're called the 'poorman's Mavic A719' for good reason. Went to fixed w/t same fame/comps w/some off-brand called Aeromax from ebay(100.00w/tires) and the ss wheelset hangs there until my wife decides she wants to try them out.
#23
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Toronto, Ontario
Bikes: Miele Azsora, Kuwahara Cascade
#24
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Joined: Mar 2010
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#25
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Any of those rims should be fine provided you don't insist on some silly low spoke count build.
Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother. I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.
There's nothing special about a welded seam. A properly built wheel is held together by the spokes. On weight-weenie wheels we used to take the pins out of pinned rims to save weight. Once built, the wheel works fine.
Avoid aluminum nipples; they're just weight-weenie fluff. They cost more and strip more easily than brass. Not worth the bother. I've built hundreds of wheels over the years and only use aluminum nipples if the customer insists on it despite my warnings.
There's nothing special about a welded seam. A properly built wheel is held together by the spokes. On weight-weenie wheels we used to take the pins out of pinned rims to save weight. Once built, the wheel works fine.
thank you very much. you have helped a lot





