I'm very eager to build a single speed for my daily commuting and especially to challenge myself to ride in next year's MS 150 and other charity and multi-day rides. I'll be new to this type of riding and have started to research things a bit. I have a few questions I'd like to ask here:

1) What are some recommended brands/models (I like the Surly Steamroller)?
2) Can I use a quick release rear wheel? Most pix show bolts as opposed to q/r.
3) If I can't use q/r, how do you change a flat? (I'm guessing I'd have to bring wrenches in addition to my multi-tool).
4) I know I'd like a steel frame, but should I look only at ss and fixed gear frames, or is converting from an older, geared model an option-if so I'm guessing I'd need something like the Singleator to regulate chain tension and compensate for stretch......
5) If I went with a track frame, would it have mounts for road brakes? It seems that fixies use a front brake only as an emergancy brake-I'd like front/rear road brakes.
6) Does a s/s with horizontal rear dropouts require additional hardware, ie spacing or tensioning devices, or, like my old bmx, do you pull the wheel until appropriate chain tension is achieved and simply tighten the wheel?
7) Gear ratios: I know that will be important, any recommendations on front and reat ratios for a commuter setup?
and lastly,
8) What are some tips to save $ while setting up a decent ride? I know I won't be spending on derrailleurs, shifters, cassettes, etc, but what are some DC/Metro area resources for finding inexpensive frames and parts.

I know I've asked alot of questions, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I use a 42 x 16 set up to commute from Fairlington to Downtown DC. It seems to be well suited to both stop-and-go city sprinting and getting a good cadence on the flat parts of the Mt. Vernon trail.

I've had good success in finding parts at Spokes Etc. in Fairlington, on Quaker Lane. But to be honest, and though it may smack of disloyalty or heresy, I prefer to order my parts online.

Avoid the quick release. There is extra torque genreated by a single-speed or fixed gear drivetrain, and this mangles a Q/R. Also, the track ends on a Steamroller are prone to allow a Q/R slip, where vertical dropouts on a geared bike would not.

Find an older bike you like with horizontal drops and take off all the gear crap as well as the extra chainrings. Redish the rear wheel. Add spacers, etc, to get the chainline right. Oh forgot, get a screw on freewheel.

Yes you need wrenches to change flats and no QR won't work on rear. If the distance isn't too great look for an old chromoly mountain bike with horizontal drops to convert.

I got a 19" Specialized hardrock chromoly frame/fork with horizontal drops for 41 dollars on Ebay. Police auctions, thrift stores, garage sales, etc. For the newer frames surly, iro, nyc bikes, etc, etc.

Also on ebay i got an old Fuji s-12 which i converted to fixed gear by adding a cheap 700c fixed wheel set and a different crank/chainring/bottom bracket.

QR work fine if you really tighten them down. I've ridden a few months with QR on both my front and rear wheels without much slippage. (A little slippage occurs, just be sure to check things once a week or so.) That being said, I have now built up some wheels that use nuts. (I'm just waiting for my cog and lockring to arrive.) QR aren’t ideal, but if you're on a tight budget, they work fine. If you've got the money, get something with nuts.

I don't think the Steamroller is suitable "off the shelf" for a SS - not drilled for brakes as far as I know. I guess you can probably get/have them drilled though.

Stick to bolts, at least in the rear. More secure. QR is overrated anyway, when it comes to regular bike riding. QR is nice but it really is for racing when you need to change a wheel quickly.

1 additional item besides what you normally would bring: a small adjustable wrench or (my favorite) a Surly Jethro Tule.

Sheldon Brown has your answers. You can convert most any bike to SS.

www.sheldonbrown.com

See #1 - many track specific frames do not come drilled for brakes; some you can get drilled some you can't. Depends on how mch room there is on the fork crown and seatstay bridge and what the material is.

Like your old BMX.

Depends on your fitness, the terrain, the distance you ride. I ride 48/16 which works great for me. I am in the D-FW Texas area - mostly flat, a few rolling hills.

Can't help with that one. Try Sheldon Brown's website for some good info.

1) What are some recommended brands/models (I like the Surly Steamroller)?

Surly, IRO, and Soma make popular new frames. If you want so save some cash look for an older steel frame. There are great deals to be found on old Trek 531 frames. I bought an old lugged steel Bianchi for $160 including wheels and everything. Like someone said, just look for something with sem-horizontal/horizontal dropouts.

2) Can I use a quick release rear wheel? Most pix show bolts as opposed to q/r.

See my post right before this to answer question #2.

3) If I can't use q/r, how do you change a flat? (I'm guessing I'd have to bring wrenches in addition to my multi-tool).

Someone already answered this.

4) I know I'd like a steel frame, but should I look only at ss and fixed gear frames, or is converting from an older, geared model an option-if so I'm guessing I'd need something like the Singleator to regulate chain tension and compensate for stretch......

Either way you go you probably don't need a chain tensioner. Just get a chain tool and shorten your chain. There are cases where this won't work, but most of the time it does.

5) If I went with a track frame, would it have mounts for road brakes? It seems that fixies use a front brake only as an emergancy brake-I'd like front/rear road brakes.

True track frames aren't drilled for brakes. Things like the surly and soma (not sure about iro) frames have the track dropouts, have some mix of track geometry (sometimes), and are drilled for brakes.

6) Does a s/s with horizontal rear dropouts require additional hardware, ie spacing or tensioning devices, or, like my old bmx, do you pull the wheel until appropriate chain tension is achieved and simply tighten the wheel?

It's like your old bmx.

7) Gear ratios: I know that will be important, any recommendations on front and reat ratios for a commuter setup?
and lastly,

See previous post in this thread for #7.

8) What are some tips to save $ while setting up a decent ride? I know I won't be spending on derrailleurs, shifters, cassettes, etc, but what are some DC/Metro area resources for finding inexpensive frames and part

Don't know the DC area. I've had good luck with ebay.


Thouroughly read https://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html before you ask anymore questions. (I'm not saying this in a mean way. Just being informative. )

Looks like DMax and I replied roughly at the same time. Oh well, you get two different answers. At least they are close.

I reiterate, read the sheldon brown info and its links. Also, this message board has a great search function that will return a crap load of useful threads. Use it first before asking questions.

I do not know how much you want to spend.

You can also convert a frame with verticle drops by using an eccentric hub. If you go this route you are talking about a $200+ rear wheel.

actually, it is drilled for long-reach brakes fron & rear. no cable guides, tho.

The Steamroller IS drilled for both front and rear brakes. It's closer to road geometry than to track geometry which is desireable for some folks. It's a basic 4130 steel frame with a double-butted main triangle and I think it's worth considering. I really like mine alot .... and built one for my girlfriend too.

Jim

Thanks for the info on the Steamroller. I am planning to build up a SS this winter and was mistaken about that frame - think I'll add it back to my list of potential buys. I am looking for something road-geometry oriented that I'll need to do minimal amounts of crapping with, like drilling brake holes.

So whaddya do about stops for the brake housing?

i just got a steamroller and i love it! i spent a lot of time looking at cost and quality of building up from scratch, building from old used frame and complete bikes. it was down to a built IRO or building up the surly. in the end i spent more than i was planning and it was a long process. but i do love it!
by the way, i went with 16x49 and it kicks my arse! but thats why i got the bike.

zipties.

For my girlfriend's bike, I bought a pair of hinged, clamp-on cable stops on her toptube. They work fine. For mine, well, I use a coaster brake .... It's the future of cycling ;-)

Jim

I just found a complete Centurion LeMans on Ebay for $142.50-I won the auction and should receive it next week. It looks to be in great shape with some new parts and a complete overhaul. Looks like all I'll have to do will be to: remove gears and derrailleurs, remove shifters, re-dish rear wheel, and replace the cranks and pedals, otherwise I'll leave everything else intact. This should be a much cheaper project than I suspected. Once I know what type of bottom bracket I've got, I'll search for some used s/s cranks. Thanks for the advice.

I have an old ('89) TREK 1000 (aluminum) that I'd like to convert to a fixie as the frame is still in decent condition. I'm just returning to cycling and thought riding a fixie on trainer (winter) and road would enhance my training.

What kind of $$ is avg to spend on the conversion? the wheels, if trued, are OK too (700's).

My new roadie is an Allez Comp 18.

****z
average varies, but I can say that since you are just riding it foir a winter trainer, it should be pretty cheap if you start at the bottom end of the spectrum. All you really need is a rear wheel, like this:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fixed.html#wheels
(ctrl+f for WE1220). it is a basic rear wheel. concern: rear wheel spacing compared to dropout spacing. But this can be remedied by adding spacers if needed. You would also need a cog and lockring. And a new chain. And a new front chainring. I would guess about $200-ish if you shop around.
*this is just for rear wheel and drivetrain mods*

Nah, you can probably get by cheaper. If you're only going to be using this bike fixed and it's in good running order, you can recycle the existing chain by taking out whatever you need to. Strip the crank, if you have a double the small gear is probably around 42t (middle on a triple). All you really need is the rear wheel and cog. Cheap rear ($90) + cog (just getting started a 16t is probably a good match with the 42t, $20), and lockring ($10). All told, $120 if you can recycle everything else.

(btw, the $90 is about going rate for a Suzue basic laced to a Mavic MA3--the $120 wheel 165 cited is really worth the extra $30--would bring the total cost up to $150).

damn - you're doing my taxes next year bostontrevor.

Oops.. except the wheel you linked to for $120 and the one I describe are not the same wheel! $120 for a Suzue basic on a MA3 = too much. You should be able to find it for around $90 with some shopping around.

eBay for one:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...107772595&rd=1

"Avoid the quick release. There is extra torque genreated by a single-speed or fixed gear drivetrain, and this mangles a Q/R. "

Lot of debate here. Looootttttt of debate.

Thanks guys... appreciate the help. I'll let you know when/if I start building.