Help with picking chainring. Stuck between 47 48 and 49
#1
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From: Chicago IL
Bikes: trek t1
Help with picking chainring. Stuck between 47 48 and 49
So Im building another bike. I don't want to say I'm am going to pick my chainring around my cog, but that is partly true. Phil cogs aren't cheap, and I already have a 16t. With the three chainring options listed, what would you choose for a brake-less street bike? I compared the gear inches with different cogs since I will eventually want to have two options, one for a little more hilly areas and one for a higher cruising speed on flat lands.
Its 47 48 49 across and 15 16 17 down
82.3 84.1 85.8
77.2 78.8 80.5
72.7 74.2 75.7
47 48 49 across 16 17 18 down
77.2 78.8 80.5
72.7 74.2 75.7
68.6 70.1 71.5
Im currently good on flat land, running a 46/16 combo, which is 76.9 inches on a 28c tire. the above was for a 23.
What do you think I should go with?
Its 47 48 49 across and 15 16 17 down
82.3 84.1 85.8
77.2 78.8 80.5
72.7 74.2 75.7
47 48 49 across 16 17 18 down
77.2 78.8 80.5
72.7 74.2 75.7
68.6 70.1 71.5
Im currently good on flat land, running a 46/16 combo, which is 76.9 inches on a 28c tire. the above was for a 23.
What do you think I should go with?
#3
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From: im, hungary
heres some advice.
-a chainring would cost about the same as your phil cog, unless you are going for bling with a zen chainring or something
-your difference will be minimal with a 23 versus a 28
-forget phil cogs, any reg. dura ace/eai/soma will work. honestly.
-get a brake
last gripe, instead of making two charts with 15,16,17 maybe make just one with 15,16,17,18
-a chainring would cost about the same as your phil cog, unless you are going for bling with a zen chainring or something
-your difference will be minimal with a 23 versus a 28
-forget phil cogs, any reg. dura ace/eai/soma will work. honestly.
-get a brake
last gripe, instead of making two charts with 15,16,17 maybe make just one with 15,16,17,18
#5
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+1 for what killem have said.
I'd go with 47...47/18 is my preferred ratio...almost identical to my current 44/17.
I don't know you're asking as for advice though, we don't even ride our bikes.
I'd go with 47...47/18 is my preferred ratio...almost identical to my current 44/17.
I don't know you're asking as for advice though, we don't even ride our bikes.
#6
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From: Chicago IL
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heres some advice.
-a chainring would cost about the same as your phil cog, unless you are going for bling with a zen chainring or something
-your difference will be minimal with a 23 versus a 28
-forget phil cogs, any reg. dura ace/eai/soma will work. honestly.
-get a brake
last gripe, instead of making two charts with 15,16,17 maybe make just one with 15,16,17,18
-a chainring would cost about the same as your phil cog, unless you are going for bling with a zen chainring or something
-your difference will be minimal with a 23 versus a 28
-forget phil cogs, any reg. dura ace/eai/soma will work. honestly.
-get a brake
last gripe, instead of making two charts with 15,16,17 maybe make just one with 15,16,17,18
just noted that the charts where made with different tire sizes.
I have dura ace cogs I guess I could use
non-machined rims
sorry for the two seperate charts.
Next time actually give me some help with what I'm asking
#7
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We don't know how strong you are or how fast you can spin, we don't know the terrain you usually ride on, that's why gear ratio advices are usually useless because everyone have their own preferrences.
Why not just stick with your current ratio on your T1 or Pasado, and buy a small cog like 13 or 14?
Why not just stick with your current ratio on your T1 or Pasado, and buy a small cog like 13 or 14?
#8
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From: PHL
Bikes: Litespeed Catalyst, IRO Rob Roy, All City Big Block
Because you are being obnoxious I am going to reply to your thread with no relevant input.
#9
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6' 2 185 and I said its mostly flatland but would like something that would be easier for hilly sections.
New bike. new wheelset/cog. new crank, which is only available in 47 48 49.
New bike. new wheelset/cog. new crank, which is only available in 47 48 49.
#10
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From: im, hungary
you are such a great member of this community.
#11
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From: Chicago IL
Bikes: trek t1
you too cutie
#13
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From: Chicago IL
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Its going for 130 on ribble. thats where I planned on buying it, and its cheaper than getting it though the shop.
#14
#16
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
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From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle
#18
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From: Minneapolis
Bikes: old lotus
I run 47x17 and love it for everything but super windy days. That being said I used to use 48x17, 49x17 and 49x16. I'm actually faster now than I was when I used 49x16 because I had to work on my spin more. working on improving a higher cruising cadence > running higher gear inches
#21
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From: Tampa Bay, FL
Bikes: Surly Cross-Check, Torker U-District
https://software.bareknucklebrigade.c...it.applet.html
Run those numbers and look at the skid patches. Run a 18x16 so we can all LOL.
Run those numbers and look at the skid patches. Run a 18x16 so we can all LOL.
#22
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From: albany,oregon
Bikes: 1973 RALEIGH SUPER COURSE,85 FUI ALLEGRO
this thread is pointless(:>
#23
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#24
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From: Chicago IL
Bikes: trek t1
Your post was pointless. Go make better use of your <19 posts.
This thread was going to sink, but you too morons had to keep it going. This thread already delivered, so lets move on with the next one.
I dont understand the reason for yall being on a bike forum if you dont even post about anything related to bikes. Are your lives really that boring that you need to spend your time on an internet forum posting usless things?
This thread was going to sink, but you too morons had to keep it going. This thread already delivered, so lets move on with the next one.
I dont understand the reason for yall being on a bike forum if you dont even post about anything related to bikes. Are your lives really that boring that you need to spend your time on an internet forum posting usless things?
#25
Your cog is slipping.



Joined: May 2009
Posts: 26,053
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From: Beverly MA
Bikes: EAI Bareknuckle



