Thanks for that visual, Scrod.

Hey for those of you who have 722's, do you have creaky bottom brackets? My UN52 was creaky so I replaced it with a UN54 and I got no less noise than before.

Did you grease your BB threads before installing?

BB threads greased, pedals tightened, crank bolts tightened. Still creaky when I'm back pedaling/trackstanding. FSA Veros to 68x107 UN54 square taper, If it matters.

Chainring bolts tight?

^ just inspected. All are tight except for one that is tightened down to the female end of the bolt, but will spin as a whole in the chainring. Maybe thats it?

It could be. Throw a drop of oil on it until you can properly tighten it and see if the noise stops. It could also be a worn crankarm interface caused by over/undertightening.

^ ended up being the chainring bolts. The cranks wouldnt creak when I took off the chain so I removed the bolts, cleaned the interfaces and greased the threads. Super quiet now except for mild chain rattle when decelerating. While this happened, I discovered something else: I get a slack chain when the right crank is between 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock. What could be the cause of this? Warped chainring/cog?

Your chainring might not be centered on your cranks making the chain tighter in certain areas of the rotation.

Tyler is riding a Leader 729TRK 2.5 in this one, that frame is now dead. VERY dead.

Did it have to do something with a car?

Haha no, it had more to do with Tyler being a beast. Cracked the top tube and downtube at the gusset, by the time he was done with it the top tube was in two pieces and the downtube was cracked all the way through with only the gusset holding it together.

My friends brand new 725 that i got to put together.

I like your friends bike.

It needs foot retention.

I find the Velocity stickers to be ugly, but that's just me :(

I just put together my V1 725 for commuting. I had some parts left over from my Langster and threw them on my frame and fork.
fsa carbon crank
fsa headset
fsa stem
fsa bottom bracket
thompson elite seatpost
deap V wheels
cane creek brake
cinelli lola bullhorns
origin 8 brake lever
sella shark seat titanium rails
mks pedals (tempoary) egg beaters going on

I just threw it together about an hour ago and sorry for the iphone pic. I need to get a longer bolt for my front brake that is why it is dangling. I am getting some rocking in the seat post. I tightened it with the post in and then re-tightened it with the post out but it still rocks. Any advice?

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...l/75b045cd.jpg

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...l/e6d7fc6d.jpg

my dogs would not move. I also have a machined gold aerospoke for the front but it is heavy.

That's a V2.

your right! I did not realize that there are three versions.

yeah definitely needs foot retention, and i told him to lose the stickers but he really liked them or something.

Hey Scrod, heres the bike you've been helping me with by answering all my questions :]

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._4018338_n.jpg

I enjoy putting bikes places they don't belong.

got my cranks on and have a chainstay clearance question.

using 170 sugino 75s and 110.5 phil BB on a 722ts

drive side arm/chainstay clearance: 4-5mm
non drive side arm/chainstay clearance: 2-3mm

i've read that as long arms don't hit, then i'm fine.

i don't care that it's not the same on both side...just thinking the non-drive side is cutting it close.

am i good or no?

That's pretty close but I would think it's fine. My Omniums on my TET frame cut it pretty close as well on the NDS, but I don't even think my clearance is that small. But... it's not like your crank arms are going to flex laterally 2-3mm when you pedal.

You can also ask in the Mechanics forum for more peace of mind.

thanks.

i will do that.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_C...ader%20026.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_C...ader%20029.JPG

Blowout for V2's at City Grounds... <oh so tempted> http://store.citygrounds.com/store/p...25TR-V2-Frame/