Anyone know of an indoor trainer for a fixed/singlespeed bike? Thanks.

Any reason why a 'normal' trainer wouldn't work?
Any reason why you'd inflict such a device upon yourself? Mine now gets used as a workshop stand (they're very good for that actually, if you don't mind sitting on the floor).

Richard.

Some trainers don't work well with 15mm bolts because they expect quick release skewers.

Also, some have only one bike and riding a trainer is better than sitting indoors and looking at the snow and ice outside.

To answer the OP's question: I know that the Tacx Satori and Kurt Kinetic Road Pro trainers accept 15mm bolts just fine. Also the Cycleops trainers do, too. But, I'm sure that there are many more.

Fair enough. Mine takes the nuts fairly well and I didn't think further.

That's something I thought about afterwards. We don't have a 'off' season here - sometimes it gets soooo cold I have to wear full length gloves and arm warmers. Ice is something you put in drinks and what is that 'snow' stuff to which you refer?

One thing I do know about trainers is that they can be rather hard on rear tyres. From that point of view, if you're going to use a trainer a lot (as a trainer, not as a workshop stand), a spare wheel with a long wearing tyre isn't a bad option. In that case, you could fit a hollow axle and quick release to the trainer wheel - the 'no quick release on fixed gear' rule shouldn't be much of a problem on a trainer because you won't be putting in the high chain forces that you sometimes do on the road.

Richard

You are lucky with regards to weather.

You are right about trainers being rough on tires. nstone, if you have an extra wheel or know that you will be indoors for at least few weeks then a trainer tire might be a good idea. But, if you are indoors and outdoors using the same wheel, then a trainer tire will be a pain in the butt.

I forgot to add that some people like to do high speed or high cadence work (intervals) which are sometimes very hard and unsafe to do in the streets. I often ride my road bike on a very long paved trail that is designed for walking/running/cycling but I still can't do my intervals uninterrupted because of pedestrians, other riders, or intersections. But, I can get it done on the trainer (or rollers) no problem.

Opt for rollers to do cadence drills instead.

I am fortunate to have a separate dedicated indoor trainer, which I bought about 30 years ago. It's called the Houdaille Road Machine, and it simulates both wind resistance with speed and inertial resistance from acceleration with a vaned flywheel. They don't make them anymore, but something similar is being marketted as the Lemond Revolution trainer >>> https://www.lemondfitness.com/product...FRJY2godcVjyJQ

+1

I'm getting ready to do some right now on my rollers.

I was doing goldsprints last night and my legs are still sore.

Goldsprints make me want to puke.

They have goldsprints at a shop near me, but I've never done them. How does it work? Is it a specific distance or is it timed?

The ones that I have done were distances from 250 - 500M. Gearing is like 48x16 usually. With no resistance, I think 500M comes up around 30-32". And after about 20 of those seconds, it's all lactic burn.

So, are the bikes in a specific gear? I've done roller races that were 1500m, and limited to a 90" (50x15) gear on a track bike. They lasted a little over 1 minute, and the last 20 seconds were pure agony.

Ours was 350m with two identical Pake track bikes on rollers, 46x?. It only lasted >20 secs for us, but the gearing was so low that everyone was spinning out really really fast. I had no problem spinning but unfortunately, I had mountain shoes on and the bikes had track pedals and I unclipped when I was spinning really really really fast.

It was really fun though.

The promoter will provide the bikes. They are setup with a fork stand as in this photo. So, no need to balance. The old-school way was to balance with real bikes.



The bikes should have identical gearing. Something in the 75-85 gear-inch range. "Should" because I've been in races where the gearing was not identical and caused drama. Sometimes there will be two different bike sizes, like a 54 and 56 or a 56 and 58cm. The larger rider will get on the larger bike. They will have quick release seat post clamps to adjust height. The pedals will be basic pedals with toe clips. These days, there will be a big screen displaying the real-time progress bars of each rider being projected on it.

Pro Tip: If you are there to win real money, wear cycling shorts. Blue jeans are a speed killer.

We had a jacked up speedometer to boost our ego and I was spinning at 56mph!! It must've been modified to two or three times the speed. It was the Specialized program.

No, that's about right. For example, if you had a 48x15 ratio rolling at 200RPM, you could touch 50mph. 200RPM isn't hard for many cyclists to touch on rollers with fork stands. The hard part is staying there

The amusing thing is when roadies claim that this means they can do it on the road ... especially when they consider 110 rpm hard work.

Richard

Further, the fork stand reduces the wattage required by a full 1/3 when compared to two wheels being on the rollers. So, the resistance is next to nothing. According to the Wattage Chart at Kreitler's website, it only requires 210 watts to travel at 44MPH when using the 4.5" rollers combined with a fork stand.

In the real world, 210 watts would propel a person around 17-20mph on account of friction of the tires and more importantly, air resistance.

Hmmm, sounds like I have some options. I'm a bit concerned that a trainer will damage my skewer or nuts. Thoughts?

Rollers seem like a good alternative, but I have no experience with them. Is there any way to change resistance on them? I'm also happy to improve my balance and handling, but indoor training is really about keeping up my fitness for long summer rides. Can I get the same workout on rollers that I get on a trainer?

My trainer was only a cheapie and it came with it's own skewer so I'd imagine the expensive ones do as well. In anycase, it's not hard to buy a skewer just for the job. I'll repeat my earlier suggestion of a wheel just for the trainer with a tyre you don't mind shredding (you can buy special 'trainer' tyres), a skewer so that it fits into the trainer properly (and is easy to change) and doesn't muck up your good wheel nuts.

BTW, buying a cheap trainer isn't a good move if you're serious about using one - the resistance system isn't as good and they tend to be very noisy in comparison to the expensive ones (no point trying to watch television with mine).

Richard

This is our local goldsprint setup (that's me on the closest bike.) The bikes are identical and set up with 53x13 gearing. We do 250m sprints and the times are between 8-12 seconds. My legs are toast from cross cross racing on Sat and goldsprints lastnight.

@OP, get rollers. They will help you improve in all areas.

53x13?! I'd be unbeatable. Anaerobic Alactic power is available during that time period (10 seconds). On rollers, I can hold 215 RPM for 15". I'd complete 250M in about 6".

Cadences slow down after the anaerobic alactic power runs out after 10" or so. Then the pain kicks in at around 20".

That make sense. I was hitting around 200 last night with a time of 9 seconds. Kevin Mansker came up from LA for this and crushed everyone with an 8 second time.