First Build LOOK 496
#1
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First Build LOOK 496
Hello everyone, I decided I wanted to build my first bike from the ground up and with that, I will be needing tons of help! I decided on the 496 because I liked it, the color scheme and its decent quality. Im not a track ***** by any means, but I am planning on trying out the velodrome on those saturday amateur early morning sessions. So for the mean time I'm planning on building it to be able to go to the track sometimes and riding it out and about. If anyone has any tips on the build route, by all means please give your input. Im currently debating on which hubs and rims to get, Phil Wood and Paul Components so far are the two I'm thinking of hub-wise. Foer 41 and H+ Son sl42 are the two rims I'm thinking of. So with that, heres the picture of the 464. As if you guys haven't seen one before! Any other suggestions hub/rim wise? Thanks in advance.
P.S. I was psyched it came with a bunch of swag!
P.S. I was psyched it came with a bunch of swag!
#3
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#5
And to answer your question:
Wheels: Mavic Ellipse. Perfect for track and street...and are also French. They will compliment the bike. The hubs/rims you mentioned are not necessarily great racing or training wheels, yet will cost way more than the Ellipse.
Wheels: Mavic Ellipse. Perfect for track and street...and are also French. They will compliment the bike. The hubs/rims you mentioned are not necessarily great racing or training wheels, yet will cost way more than the Ellipse.
#7
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hahahaha, I apologize for the title, Mods please fix. Finger moved before the brain sorry.
Also I was looking at the headset bearings. I was wondering if anyone can help me with the order here, So far heres the order I "think" its suppose to be from fork up. Left most bearing sits on bottom of steerer tube -> Frame -> other Bearing -> Split Washer -> Those thin spacer/washers -> the FSA labeled piece. Thank in advance.
Also I was looking at the headset bearings. I was wondering if anyone can help me with the order here, So far heres the order I "think" its suppose to be from fork up. Left most bearing sits on bottom of steerer tube -> Frame -> other Bearing -> Split Washer -> Those thin spacer/washers -> the FSA labeled piece. Thank in advance.
Last edited by mdelosrey; 06-23-11 at 12:21 AM. Reason: add pic
#9
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Carleton, I do like the Ellipse. Do they come completely built?
#10
THE STUFFED


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That's the only way they come... except for cog and lockring which you have to buy (lockring's included), install and tighten down yourself.
If you buy them online, you would want to true and tension them before riding on them through.
If you buy them online, you would want to true and tension them before riding on them through.
#11
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Leuky, I will also be using these for zipping around town. I was concerned with the non machined rim, is that an issue? Also an even bigger issue, I would like to have a front brake when I'm in town but don't want to get the stock fork drilled. Can anyone recommend any good alternative forks with brake bosses?
#12
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Leuky, I will also be using these for zipping around town. I was concerned with the non machined rim, is that an issue? Also an even bigger issue, I would like to have a front brake when I'm in town but don't want to get the stock fork drilled. Can anyone recommend any good alternative forks with brake bosses?
For the fork, I'm pretty sure you want a fork that's deserving of the caliber of the frame. Don't you mean drilled for a road brake?/ not cantilever brakes? Anyhow a good drilled brake that matches the 464 off the top of my head would be leader's I06 full carbon fork (they just discontinued it but you can easily find one online used/ deadstock); a bit on the pricey side through, especially since I'm pretty sure your wallet took a beating for that 464.
#13
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Thanks Leuky. Yes, I'm looking for an alternate fork with road brake option. I searched for the I06 but the closest thing I found is Leader's I8xx forks.
Build wise my goal is to stay at the 464 "calibre" or maybe slightly step-up. Thank you for all the input, I greatly appreciate it.
Build wise my goal is to stay at the 464 "calibre" or maybe slightly step-up. Thank you for all the input, I greatly appreciate it.
#14
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I just realized I forgot the 8 in I806..
Yea you should also check out enve forks.... pricey nonetheless... you have to understand through that a drilled track fork limits you quite a bit in selection.
If your wallet is off its toes from the purchase of the 464, you can take a cheaper alternative and save the stock fork for track day by getting a carbon fork from a forsaken road frame on ebay, I once helped my friend win a full carbon fork from a originally $4000+ frameset for $45 shipped. Road forks are always drilled.
Yea you should also check out enve forks.... pricey nonetheless... you have to understand through that a drilled track fork limits you quite a bit in selection.
If your wallet is off its toes from the purchase of the 464, you can take a cheaper alternative and save the stock fork for track day by getting a carbon fork from a forsaken road frame on ebay, I once helped my friend win a full carbon fork from a originally $4000+ frameset for $45 shipped. Road forks are always drilled.
#15
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#16
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I just realized I forgot the 8 in I806..
Yea you should also check out enve forks.... pricey nonetheless... you have to understand through that a drilled track fork limits you quite a bit in selection.
If your wallet is off its toes from the purchase of the 464, you can take a cheaper alternative and save the stock fork for track day by getting a carbon fork from a forsaken road frame on ebay, I once helped my friend win a full carbon fork from a originally $4000+ frameset for $45 shipped. Road forks are always drilled.
Yea you should also check out enve forks.... pricey nonetheless... you have to understand through that a drilled track fork limits you quite a bit in selection.
If your wallet is off its toes from the purchase of the 464, you can take a cheaper alternative and save the stock fork for track day by getting a carbon fork from a forsaken road frame on ebay, I once helped my friend win a full carbon fork from a originally $4000+ frameset for $45 shipped. Road forks are always drilled.

#17
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#18
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Has anyone compared Mavic Ellipses to Novatec Forces? They are the same depth profile, but the Forces are claimed to be lighter and substantially cheaper (if you can get a hold of them). I used to want an Ellipse set, but I'm very satisfied with my Novatec Force wheelset.
#19
To the OP: Custom wheels aren't always better. There are plenty of pre-built wheels to choose from these days.
I have custom High Flange Dura Ace hubs laced to tubular Velocity Pro Elite rims (tubular versions of the Deep V) and I'm strongly considering getting a set of Ellipses if I see a nice pair come up for sale.
I have custom High Flange Dura Ace hubs laced to tubular Velocity Pro Elite rims (tubular versions of the Deep V) and I'm strongly considering getting a set of Ellipses if I see a nice pair come up for sale.
#20
I only rode the Ellipses for a short period training on the track, and one semi-competitive race. But I was not impressed. The hubs are fine, and the wheels are reasonably stiff. But I think that you could build equally stiff wheels on nicer hubs and save some money and weight.
#21
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Has anyone compared Mavic Ellipses to Novatec Forces? They are the same depth profile, but the Forces are claimed to be lighter and substantially cheaper (if you can get a hold of them). I used to want an Ellipse set, but I'm very satisfied with my Novatec Force wheelset.
To the OP: Custom wheels aren't always better. There are plenty of pre-built wheels to choose from these days.
I have custom High Flange Dura Ace hubs laced to tubular Velocity Pro Elite rims (tubular versions of the Deep V) and I'm strongly considering getting a set of Ellipses if I see a nice pair come up for sale.
I have custom High Flange Dura Ace hubs laced to tubular Velocity Pro Elite rims (tubular versions of the Deep V) and I'm strongly considering getting a set of Ellipses if I see a nice pair come up for sale.
I only rode the Ellipses for a short period training on the track, and one semi-competitive race. But I was not impressed. The hubs are fine, and the wheels are reasonably stiff. But I think that you could build equally stiff wheels on nicer hubs and save some money and weight.
Any examples?
#23
suffering...

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Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAPO, 2004 Look 468SL, CAAD 8, IRO MV, IRO bfssfg, 80's Panasonic x2
I can't determine what headset that is from the photo's. Here's the official Headset Instructions.
#25
THE STUFFED


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