After I tried some off roading I want a dirt bike sooooooo bad. SS or 1x8 with drops and a bar end shifter. Upgrading track bikes can saved for until you find yourself in the cat 4s or higher

Probably more than you want to spend, but....

http://cdn4.media.cyclingnews.future...l_view_600.jpg

Way more than I can spend at the moment, but those bikes are beautiful. I've been looking at Surly's Karate Monkey too. Someone posted an orange one at the head of a closed trail with snow. Ever since I saw that, I've had a woody for those bikes.

sure, geometry is just choice for risers.

:lol:

post disappeared.

The KM has great geometry. Very modern considering it's basically a 10 year old design. I'm thinking about getting a frame and fork and moving parts over from my Redline, which would either get full-time geared duty or... I dunno. I don't have much interest in riding gears for anything right now. But that can change.

Also, you can't really get a "good" SS 29er for 300 dollars. More like a serviceable one. I don't buy really expensive bike crap in general but I think there are more noticeable differences in mountain bikes as you get away from the very low end. Good wheels and brakes make a huge difference.

luke bear asked, "should luke bear buy a mash?" i said, "def. dat geo."

I changed my mind about asking here, I didn't want to open a can of worms, you guys will find out my decision in a few days. :p:D
Greeness mashcious.

http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/bik/2886347255.html

Saw these, do you think it'd be worth it?

He says they're unused, saw them online for 180-280$.

Been looking to switch to MTB shoes and pedals because I walk around quite a bit.

I saw some decent reviews, but just wanted some thoughts.

Should I pick this up? It seems a little sketch. I want to get a flat black one, but this is $300 under retail. Hard to pass up even if it's not the right color I want.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leader-735-F...#ht_500wt_1268

He already sold one a few days ago buy it now, so I'm just not sure why someone would be selling multiples of a frame for -$300? Overstock maybe? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated. I guess I could always pick it up with 'buyer's protection and see if it's a legit model after I get it.

The listing ended. Good deal, IMO.

Just seemed uber shady. They never pop up, let alone new and -$300 under other sites. Too good to be true maybe or just dumb luck.

It didn't seem shady at all. The seller doesn't have a ton of feedback but it's all positive and he seems to have sold quite a few of those framesets.

seems the i806tr is still goin though...

Should I buy a Colnago Dream frameset with full Dura Ace 7700 (minus cranks)?

Should I build up a set of Suzue ProMax to hard anodized H+Son TB14s or use Araya ADX1s?

http://www.tokyofixedgear.com/eCommI...0000028174.jpg

http://www.euroasiaimports.com/produ...18_general.jpg

Yes.

I think the araya's are a bit prettier...

F the badge; ADX1's.

EDIT: Woah 3 posts in the same minute!

That's what I'm thinking too but I like the width of the TB14s................

BTW, these are going on a blue Bare Knuckle.

Araya's because JDM

Gold & blue work; although it would help if the bareknuckle was a darker hue; nonetheless you could get the kashimax 5 gold TT protector, it's gold and would help the wheels fit in... :p

http://www.tokyofixedgear.com/eCommI...0000010063.jpg

Should I put my pen is in a goo cooker?

Are those things worth it? I just put a pretty sizable dent (thumbprint) in my top tube from a stupid wreck. I don't want something like that happening on the other side.

Anybody who knows physics/math/geometry: Would an exact dent on the opposite side of the toptube (in my case) make the frame structurally more sound or weaker? Ride quality difference? I haven't noticed anything since it happened a couple weeks ago.

edit: My bike is 520 Reynolds cromo, fwiw.

Supposedly word is from people who use them, is that they work. However, they could've been speaking out of their asses because they spent the $50+ on one. As the force of a handlebar hitting your TT varies and a piece of metal sheathed in plastic only goes so far. Better than direct contact nonetheless although, there could be much cheaper alternatives that get the work done just as well or better. It comes from a well respected company that does work that is NJS certified through; saddles are their specialty.
However, in my opinion, having paid the price for one to protect my then nagasawa, it was a pretty bad decision on my part. Partly because the price & how it can only be used effectively in narrow gauge perfectly round tubing & how I have never had my handlebars hit my TT while I used it or have ever suffered an impact that compromised the integrity of a TT & the fact that mine is collecting dust in a drawer in my garage back home.

Should I . . .
 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...rdRock_001.jpg

I don't want to ruin the frame, but it would be SO much more useful if the dropouts were cleared :innocent:

I like the looks of the H+Son much better, but then I grew up in the '80s wishing for nice dark anodised rims when all I could afford were the plain silver Weinman and Rigida. Box section with eyelets is a plus for me as well.

Totally. It was a money saving move by the manufacturer and doesn't affect anything if you finish the slot. Just be careful of any heat build up and you should be good to go. Post pics of the final build.