Hi, I just recently got into bikes and now I want to try my hand on building one. Been looking through old posts about frames in general. I'm thinking of getting a steel frame (not worried about the weight of the frame, just want it to absorb shock while riding). I read that Leader, Soma, and Iro (specifically the Mark V) frame are some good common ones. The problem is that my budget only consists around $150-200 so my range of frames is pretty limited. I just want some input on these brands or others you might have in mind. I'm actually still looking at old posts but if I get some more ideas, it will help my search get more refined.

I also have a couple questions on frames:

1) Do some frames have limits on the crank size you can get? I saw a deal on a Fiju Track Frame way back when and people were talking about 44T (I'm assuming teeth) was the max on it?

2) What specifically do you look at in a frame? For me, it doesn't really matter what it looks like but how it performs. I know riding a frame is the best way to test but where I am right now (San Luis Obispo), there aren't that many options around here. So, just by looking at pictures and reading reviews, how do you judge if one is good and subpar?

3) Going back to #1, I'm thinking of getting 48/17 cog ratio - would that affect the frame I would look at?

Criticism and advice is always welcome! Thanks!

EDIT: I know Kilo TT + swap is also another option but I just want have other options while learning more about the different types of frames! I am also 130 lbs and 5'9'' if it means anything.

1. Some frames do, but it's unusual as far as I have been able to see. If you are a commuter, you will never really need an exceptionally large chainring anyway. 46-48T accommodates most of my needs.

2. You are correct, riding a frame is the best way. I usually look at geometry/sizing first. That can give you a decent idea of what it may ride like and how it will fit as a baseline.
Next people look at tubing and materials. For steel, Reynolds 531 and Cromoly 4130, butted and tapered are common words that get thrown around and are things you want to look for. Beware of hi-ten. If you want a front brake, checked to see if it's drilled for one.
Lastly I look at the fork design and materials. Unicrown forks are not desirable but they'll work. For steel, I like lugged forks.
Last thing I care about is welds and lugs. IDGAF about ugly welds and/or lugs, but some people do.

3. You will probably be okay with most if not all frames. Definitely check though, there are some exceptions (like that Fuji Track you mentioned).

Don't be afraid to look at the details and bring your questions here. You may want better track ends or brake cable routings or water bottle mounts or a rear brake mount, etc.

Kilo TT

Wow, thanks a lot for the info redpear! Definitely leading me in the right direction now. The reason I need the big chainring is because SLO is very, VERY hilly in some areas and I'll be commuting to school and I pass 2-3 hills each way. I'll definitely need to try out the ratios also. 48/17 was just a baseline I found from reading, I actually haven't ridden one yet. I did ride my friend's 48/16 on his Kilo TT and it was decent but my needs require a little more tweaking. I'll try and find some people with 46-68 T also so I'll keep that in mind.

I'm currently riding a 52cm tri bike, should I stick 52 for fixed also or are they completely different sizings? Geometry wise, what should I be looking at? I'll check the stickies again to see if there is any information on geometry but I'm thinking I'll prob find more info in the search engine. I'm most likely going to stick with just a front brake and then when I get used to riding, I'll prob find a new frame that isn't slotted. Are there drastic performance differences between forks? I can care less about the welds and lugs also haha. Thanks again for the info redpear!

Cool story bro! Tell me more!

To clarify, a bigger chainring will make it difficult to climb hills. You may be thinking of a bigger rear cog, which would make it easier to. In any case, chainring size is usually less of a changing factor than rear cog. Most people change their cogs if they want to try different gearings, as they are cheaper and less intrusive to replace.

If you are riding a 52cm tri bike, your size will likely not change very much when you choose a new frame. Just make sure you check if that is 52cm center to center, or 52cm center to top. A lot of the other guys will have a lot more things to say about geometry. There are, quite frankly, quite a bit of things to be said. What I can say is that 'true track' geometry (steep headtube and seattube angles, low fork rake, short chainstays and wheelbases) will give you a stiff, harsh, but response frame. A lot of fixed gears on the market are now intended for road riding, so the geo is a bit more 'relaxed' and thus more comfortable on the road. The most important thing to check is fit. If you like the fit of your tri bike, measure both the seat tube (center-to-center and center-to-top) and the top tube (center to center). Use these numbers to get a general idea of what size you want your frame to be.

Keep in mind, however, that you can always raise your saddle or choose a longer or shorter stem. This is why some recommend sizing down rather than up if you are between sizes.

As far as forks go, there is nothing wrong with having a brake and keeping it there forever. This is why I usually like to have my forks drilled, just in case. Even those 'brakeless heathen' MASH have the fork on the Cinelli Mash drilled.

If you don't care about the look of a unicrown fork, then it will work fine for you.

IRO Phoenix, $179.99USD at JensonUSA. 2 water bottle mounts, rack and fender braze-ons. Bonus points for IGH cable guides, and they fit huge tires.

Haha I looked into that. Seems decent, and I know it's a sale so it won't last long but I'm keeping my eye on it for now while I still have other options. Thanks!

Yea I was thinking about a bigger rear cog, my bad lol. The reason I'm getting a fixie because it looks really fun to ride and doesn't have the angles that I would expect on a tri bike. I'm probably going to just ride the fixie around just to commute so I don't need the "true track" geometry. Go with more of the "relaxed" riding, like you mentioned. I'll look into that, thanks! Is it bad to size down though? Just curious, my legs are kinda long compared to the rest of my body, so for instance, if I go for a 50cm, would it make much of a difference because you did mention that I could raise my saddle and my stem to accommodate for the lack of size. I like your idea of just keeping a drilled fork, just in case I really need it. For the most part, I just want the frame to be perfect and then just getting on-par parts for everything else so I can get used to it before buying more quality stuff and enjoying the difference between the old and the new. Get what I mean? Haha. I'm thinking of raising my budget for my frame to be around 300, are there any other manufacturers I should consider based on my specs?

If you are looking to spend $300 for a frame and get the fork separate, this includes the fork for $350:
https://store.citygrounds.com/store/p...-Frame-Orange/

There aren't a heck of a lot of quality "relaxed" fixed gear specific frames in that price range. If you want a real commuter you should consider a conversion.

Definitely keeping that in mind. I've heard only good things about Masi. About your second point, it makes sense. I was just thinking about what I was going to do with this bike and realized that just commuting on it won't put it through what it's built for. So I've changed my objectives, including the fact that I will do more than just commute with this bike (maybe sprinting for fun?). As of now, it's not certain what but when the time comes, I'll realize it. Thanks for giving me more ideas! Really appreciate it.