For climbing
#27
Many people make the mistake of thinking they can "buy performance" going up hills.
The best way to go faster on hills is to lose excess bodyweight. Using Tour de France (elite cyclists) as a rule of thumb, take your height in inches and multiply by 2.
5' 9.75" = 69.75"
69.75 x 2 = 139.5 lbs. This is the competition weight of a typical Tour de France rider.
At your lighter weight of 175 lbs., that means you need to lose 35.5 lbs. The increased performance from such a weight loss yields a climbing advantage many orders of magnitude above changing the weight of your wheels.
If the hills are but short inclines, you can attack them with speed and sprint. But if you want to ride mountains, you need to lose weight.
The best way to go faster on hills is to lose excess bodyweight. Using Tour de France (elite cyclists) as a rule of thumb, take your height in inches and multiply by 2.
5' 9.75" = 69.75"
69.75 x 2 = 139.5 lbs. This is the competition weight of a typical Tour de France rider.
At your lighter weight of 175 lbs., that means you need to lose 35.5 lbs. The increased performance from such a weight loss yields a climbing advantage many orders of magnitude above changing the weight of your wheels.
If the hills are but short inclines, you can attack them with speed and sprint. But if you want to ride mountains, you need to lose weight.
my height in inches is doubled is already my eight. I... am an elite cyclist.
#28
Oh, you know...
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,834
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From: DC
Bikes: '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
#35
THE STUFFED


Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,671
Likes: 21
From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: R. Sachs Simplicity; EAI Bareknuckle; Madone SLR9 Gen 8
The effect is much more prominent especially with gears; the smaller ones.
#37
THE STUFFED


Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,671
Likes: 21
From: San Francisco, CA
Bikes: R. Sachs Simplicity; EAI Bareknuckle; Madone SLR9 Gen 8
#39
:)
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,391
Likes: 1
From: duluth
Bikes: '07 Pista, '09 Fantom Cross Uno, '8? Miyata, '67 Stingray, '0? Zoo mod trials, Tallbike, Chopper, '73 Schwinn Collegiate, '67 Triumph Chopper, '69 CB350, '58 BSA Spitfire, '73 CB450
#41
#42
For me, being 5'9'' and 130 lbs, there hasn't been a hill in SLO that I cannot go up, even starting from a stop. I gym every other day and run/bike every other day that I don't gym. And I eat correctly. What I currently ride right now is an aluminum track bike that weighs in around 25 lbs (just the frame) that I keep on one gear so I can push myself. To me, getting a lighter bike will not help you in the long run. If you have to keep depending on external factors, you're going to be dependent on it. Train yourself first. Just my .02.
#44
Yea, it was a cheap bike but ever since I've gotten it, I can tell that my calves and thighs have grown considerably, especially after doing "Prefumo Canyon Runs", which is literally a 2200 ft. climb from my driveway to the very top of the canyon. My gf is bringing me a IRO Mark V tomorrow so that is going to be my commuting bike. I can't wait to see the difference!
#46
#47
Well, climbing out of the saddle uses more energy, but on a fixed gear i think it's more important to keep a higher cadence, even if you have to use a little extra energy and breath harder because you're out of the saddle. When the hill levels out, sit down, catch your breath, then stand up again when the hill steepens. If you've got gears, by all means have at 39-24 and spin at 100 rpm on your ass. Otherwise, keep that cadence high with some manly out of saddle spinning.
#48
Conventional wisdom has you out of the saddle at a low cadence using your weight and body to propel the bike and give your quads a break. While seated you can change your posture and pedaling to engage different muscles to do the work. Trying to sprint up hills out of the saddle will only make you blow up, geared bike or no.



