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Building a good rear wheel

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Old 09-15-11, 12:53 PM
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Building a good rear wheel

So I've been wanting to build/buy a new rear wheel to upgrade from my eighth inch Amelia which is about as entry level as they get. I started looking around but the amount of options is pretty overwhelming. I'm looking for something that will be light and fast. It doesn't need to be 'bomb-proof' because I'm already super careful about curbs/potholes due to my front spinergy. I'd like to put $200 or less into it.

Does anyone have some suggestions that will get me a lot of bang for my buck? Should I try to build it myself (haven't done this before and will need some tools), have my LBS build it, or get something that's ready to roll?

thanks bfssfgbffbbqs!

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Old 09-15-11, 01:09 PM
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Velocity A23.

/thread.
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Old 09-15-11, 01:16 PM
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kinlin to novatec from retrogression?
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Old 09-15-11, 01:18 PM
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Kinlin XR-200 to Novatec with some double butted spokes would be an awesome relatively lightweight build. $200 can buy you one heckuva wheel, and you can even splurge on spokes with that budget.

I would suggest trying to build it yourself and then bring it to your LBS to have them do a check.
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Old 09-15-11, 01:37 PM
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H+Son Formation Face x Phil Wood high flange.

JK. A23's aren't a bad choice, XR-200's are even better.
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Old 09-15-11, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by yummygooey
I would suggest trying to build it yourself and then bring it to your LBS to have them do a check.
+1 All you need tool-wise is a spoke wrench. If you don't feel comfortable with the tensioning then you can have the lbs check it.
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Old 09-15-11, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by prooftheory
+1 All you need tool-wise is a spoke wrench. If you don't feel comfortable with the tensioning then you can have the lbs check it.
Don't forget the lube too!
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Old 09-15-11, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by homebrewk
A23's aren't a bad choice, XR-200's are even better.
That depends. I really like XR-200s but wanted something sturdier so I chose A23s over KinLins. My new wheels kick amazing amounts of ass.

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 09-15-11 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 09-15-11, 02:43 PM
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+1 - A23.
just built 8 CX wheels with Major Tom tubulars which are nearly the same with the A23 being the clincher version
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Old 09-15-11, 03:06 PM
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kinlinilnik
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Old 09-15-11, 04:59 PM
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I was looking at those novatec hubs and both rims mentioned on retrogression. It looks like the hubs only come in 32h. I assume it would be a weight and aerodynamics advantage to go with less spokes. I also like the looks of fewer spokes. I know the wheelset below is uber rare and probably discontinued but aesthetically I really like them.

Last edited by EpicSchwinn; 09-15-11 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 09-15-11, 05:13 PM
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Radial rear wheel is never a good idea. If you want a Novatec with less holes, buy from our friends at BDop:

https://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-FGSS.asp#A165SBT

If you use nice butted spokes though, a 32 will be strong as hell and still be really light.
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Old 09-15-11, 05:13 PM
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open pro or a23 imo.
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Old 09-15-11, 05:20 PM
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that rear isnt radial.
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Old 09-15-11, 05:21 PM
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my gipiemmes with the same rim and a low flange rear hub had a similar effect.
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Old 09-15-11, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by adriano
that rear isnt radial.
I know but before he edited, Epic said something about a radial rear wheel.
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Old 09-15-11, 05:24 PM
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fwiw, i'm going to do Velocity Fusions to Novatecs when the time comes.

Last edited by andrizzle; 09-15-11 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 09-15-11, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Radial rear wheel is never a good idea. If you want a Novatec with less holes, buy from our friends at BDop:

https://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-FGSS.asp#A165SBT

If you use nice butted spokes though, a 32 will be strong as hell and still be really light.
The colors on their site make me wanna puke!

Well, I rode over to my LBS to see what they could do for me or recommend. I talked with a mechanic for a while and we came up with a wheel that would be about 850G and cost me less than $200.

It would be a

-Novatec 32h track hub
-DT Swiss Competition double butted 2.0-1.8 spokes
-Alex rim (forgot what model but it was about 450g and not deep)

I think I'd just pay them to built it up for me. They've been a really great LBS and I trust them way more than I trust myself for wheel building. We talked about going for fewer spokes but it sounds like it would add a lot more cost and probably wouldn't benefit me that much.
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Old 09-15-11, 07:12 PM
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850g isn't too shabby, but I think you can do a little better with that rim choice if you're not looking for a deep profile rim.
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Old 09-15-11, 07:27 PM
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I did look at a DT-Swiss rim that would drop me to 800G but it would cost me $1 per gram to get there :/

For anybody who's wondering why I would care about weight on a steel conversion, at this point I'm trying to upgrade components a little bit so when I buy a better frame in the next year or so I can swap the parts over. It's easier for me to drop $50-200 here and there on components while I'm in school than plunk down a ton of cash on a frame and be stuck without any decent parts.
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Old 09-15-11, 08:44 PM
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Go with 2.0/1.5 spokes and shave off a few more grams.
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Old 09-15-11, 08:53 PM
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The further out you go from the rotational center, the more the weight matters. So a light rim and heavy spokes is easier to spin than a heavy rim and light spokes. This is just a general thing to keep in mind, not a critique on any one's ideas.
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Old 09-15-11, 08:56 PM
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Why does a lower spoke count build cost more money...?
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Old 09-15-11, 08:59 PM
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I was confused about that as well...
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Old 09-15-11, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by yummygooey
Why does a lower spoke count build cost more money...?


Not too many companies make low spoke count drillings, american classic is one of the only companies to make a 24h track hub...

you spend less on spokes, but sometimes its tough to find the right rim, and the right hub with low drillings
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