Building a good rear wheel
#1
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 2,295
Bikes: Felt F1X, Trek 2300 Composite, Dawes Deadeye
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Building a good rear wheel
So I've been wanting to build/buy a new rear wheel to upgrade from my eighth inch Amelia which is about as entry level as they get. I started looking around but the amount of options is pretty overwhelming. I'm looking for something that will be light and fast. It doesn't need to be 'bomb-proof' because I'm already super careful about curbs/potholes due to my front spinergy. I'd like to put $200 or less into it.
Does anyone have some suggestions that will get me a lot of bang for my buck? Should I try to build it myself (haven't done this before and will need some tools), have my LBS build it, or get something that's ready to roll?
thanks bfssfgbffbbqs!
Does anyone have some suggestions that will get me a lot of bang for my buck? Should I try to build it myself (haven't done this before and will need some tools), have my LBS build it, or get something that's ready to roll?
thanks bfssfgbffbbqs!
#3
My name is Alex
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: PDX
Posts: 1,669
Bikes: Mercier Kilo TT Stripper in RAW, Schwinn Madison 2008 Blue, Leader 725tr, Brassknuckle, Leader 722, Traitor Ruben
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
kinlin to novatec from retrogression?
#4
i smell bacon
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,574
Bikes: Geekhouse Deerfield, GT Edge Ti, Spooky Skeletor, TET Track, Ritchey P-650b, Bridgestone MB-3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Kinlin XR-200 to Novatec with some double butted spokes would be an awesome relatively lightweight build. $200 can buy you one heckuva wheel, and you can even splurge on spokes with that budget.
I would suggest trying to build it yourself and then bring it to your LBS to have them do a check.
I would suggest trying to build it yourself and then bring it to your LBS to have them do a check.
#8
Your cog is slipping.
#9
Foward Leaning Attitude
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: RHODE-MF-ISLAND
Posts: 851
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
+1 - A23.
just built 8 CX wheels with Major Tom tubulars which are nearly the same with the A23 being the clincher version
just built 8 CX wheels with Major Tom tubulars which are nearly the same with the A23 being the clincher version
#11
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 2,295
Bikes: Felt F1X, Trek 2300 Composite, Dawes Deadeye
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I was looking at those novatec hubs and both rims mentioned on retrogression. It looks like the hubs only come in 32h. I assume it would be a weight and aerodynamics advantage to go with less spokes. I also like the looks of fewer spokes. I know the wheelset below is uber rare and probably discontinued but aesthetically I really like them.
Last edited by EpicSchwinn; 09-15-11 at 05:14 PM.
#12
Your cog is slipping.
Radial rear wheel is never a good idea. If you want a Novatec with less holes, buy from our friends at BDop:
https://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-FGSS.asp#A165SBT
If you use nice butted spokes though, a 32 will be strong as hell and still be really light.
https://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-FGSS.asp#A165SBT
If you use nice butted spokes though, a 32 will be strong as hell and still be really light.
#16
Your cog is slipping.
#17
Enson
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 389
Bikes: Surly Steamroller
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
fwiw, i'm going to do Velocity Fusions to Novatecs when the time comes.
Last edited by andrizzle; 09-15-11 at 05:27 PM.
#18
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 2,295
Bikes: Felt F1X, Trek 2300 Composite, Dawes Deadeye
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Radial rear wheel is never a good idea. If you want a Novatec with less holes, buy from our friends at BDop:
https://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-FGSS.asp#A165SBT
If you use nice butted spokes though, a 32 will be strong as hell and still be really light.
https://www.bdopcycling.com/Hubs-FGSS.asp#A165SBT
If you use nice butted spokes though, a 32 will be strong as hell and still be really light.
Well, I rode over to my LBS to see what they could do for me or recommend. I talked with a mechanic for a while and we came up with a wheel that would be about 850G and cost me less than $200.
It would be a
-Novatec 32h track hub
-DT Swiss Competition double butted 2.0-1.8 spokes
-Alex rim (forgot what model but it was about 450g and not deep)
I think I'd just pay them to built it up for me. They've been a really great LBS and I trust them way more than I trust myself for wheel building. We talked about going for fewer spokes but it sounds like it would add a lot more cost and probably wouldn't benefit me that much.
#19
i smell bacon
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,574
Bikes: Geekhouse Deerfield, GT Edge Ti, Spooky Skeletor, TET Track, Ritchey P-650b, Bridgestone MB-3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
850g isn't too shabby, but I think you can do a little better with that rim choice if you're not looking for a deep profile rim.
#20
Just smang it.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 2,295
Bikes: Felt F1X, Trek 2300 Composite, Dawes Deadeye
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I did look at a DT-Swiss rim that would drop me to 800G but it would cost me $1 per gram to get there :/
For anybody who's wondering why I would care about weight on a steel conversion, at this point I'm trying to upgrade components a little bit so when I buy a better frame in the next year or so I can swap the parts over. It's easier for me to drop $50-200 here and there on components while I'm in school than plunk down a ton of cash on a frame and be stuck without any decent parts.
For anybody who's wondering why I would care about weight on a steel conversion, at this point I'm trying to upgrade components a little bit so when I buy a better frame in the next year or so I can swap the parts over. It's easier for me to drop $50-200 here and there on components while I'm in school than plunk down a ton of cash on a frame and be stuck without any decent parts.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: St Louis
Posts: 1,846
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The further out you go from the rotational center, the more the weight matters. So a light rim and heavy spokes is easier to spin than a heavy rim and light spokes. This is just a general thing to keep in mind, not a critique on any one's ideas.
#25
My name is Alex
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: PDX
Posts: 1,669
Bikes: Mercier Kilo TT Stripper in RAW, Schwinn Madison 2008 Blue, Leader 725tr, Brassknuckle, Leader 722, Traitor Ruben
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts