Starting to think about a new frame to replace the 930. Suggestions? Kind of looking at a Pake Rum Runner.

Scrod, I have a Surly Ultra New Hub with Velocity Synergy rim. When I tighten the axle bolts (or put in a skewer) the hub goes from silky smooth to binding.

This is my first sealed bearing hub. Shouldn't the compression forces that clamp the hub axle in place be isolated from the sealed bearing as they essentially are in a cone and cup bearing?

How can I fix this?

Thanks

By getting a new hub.

Surly hubs are known to be extremely problematic. They supposedly fixed issues with the load placed on the bearings when the wheel is installed but I've seen a few that make me believe otherwise.

The Rum Runner is a great choice because you're pretty tough on your bikes and it can definitely take whatever you'll put it through. For the money, I really don't think it can be beat. No bottle bosses though (and I know you put on the miles).

What's your budget?

I wish it had water bottle bosses, but I guess that could be fixed easily enough.

True. They're easy to install by someone who knows what they're doing with a drill and rivet gun.

*tink tink tink* aw ****

That's an annoying waste of money. As a budget but decent fix/free hub for a conversion (127mm) will the All-City New Sheriff do me right (spaced for 130)?

Thanks

Why not just space the hub to 127mm?

Good idea. A decent hub spaced for 127mm then?

No. I'm talking about getting any 120mm hub and adding 3.5mm worth of axle spacers to each side.

I see. I didn't know the axle in a 120mm hub was long enough to space to 127mm. If it is I'd go with that.

Scrod, is a good headset supposed to move with less resistance and faster? My roadbike has an FSA headset and I can't even ride without arms because it becomes really twitchy, even with a 110mm stem. My stock headset on my fixed on the other hand, doesn't have this "problem."

It's most likely just a tiny bit too loose.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/early-1970s-...00801885682%26

I thought about a soma rush, but am not feeling the idea of a white frame, and just no on a steamroller. Budget is not that much of a priority, just want to keep it steel, but having a 1-1/8th headset.

Sweet christ. /notscrod

Agreed. That's a frame that needs to be built and ridden. Right now.

Bet if Raleigh released that in their current line up it would sell.

Yes. I'm currently bidding.

that is gorgeous.

Scrod the master wheelbuilder,

I think I've finally been talked out of my deep carbon wheel fetish.

I want to have a wheelset built that is stiff and light (~1700g?) and under $450 when it's all said and done.

I figure Novatec hubs is a good place to start but I have no idea where to look for rims. There seems to be a million options in the 400 +/- 20g range. I like the idea of a low spoke count but I'm not sure how realistic that is considering I want it to be stiff and under $450. I've yet to find a low spoke count track hub that isn't ~$100.

Edit: While I was typing this, you answered me in another thread: A23 or Aerohead.

I read the descriptions for both on the rg website. If I plan on using 23c tires, would you recommend the A23s or Aeroheads? I tried searching on the topic but didn't find much.

Personally, I would go for A23s.

The set of A23/Novatecs I just built for Mumonkan - laced 2X using Sapim Lasers and finished with red Veloplugs - weigh 892g front/950g rear.

Check out IRD cadence rims. 60 grams lighter per rim than a23's.
I've had really good luck building them.

You mean IRD Cadence?

Personally, I'd still rather use a wider rim and suffer the whopping 60g weight penatly per wheel.

Haha thanks ipad.
Yes. Cadence.
120g (1/4lb) is a lot to some people, and I know I'll get flamed for saying this but I'm not convinced the wider platform is way to go. I've seen a lot of crashes the corners during crits where a rider was on belgiums or a23s......