So the angle doesn't need to be a perfect match? That's been holding me back in the past, but if it doesn't need to be, I might save myself some money the next time that problem arises.

Nope.

How perfect is perfect? It's really easy to eyeball it and get it really close with the saw. If you are off by a degree or two, you just fix it with the file while you are cleaning it up. With the wedge in place it's easy to see if you are off and by how much. The wedge is also the perfect guide to tell you when you've filed it enough. If you want to get super anal about making it all smooth and perfect, it'll take about 15-20 minutes. No big deal, really.

Well, for one, I don't have a hacksaw.
2nd, how does one dismantle the quill in order to saw it? (probably a super noob question but i've obviously never done or considered it before)
When you say the angle, you mean cutting it so the tightening wedge at the bottom fits snuggly against the newly sawed bottom of the quill?

wouldn't it just be easier to buy a shorter stem? :lol:

Cheap as hell. Under eight bucks for a nice one at Amazon. No self respecting hobbyist should be without one.

Dismantle? There is nothing to dismantle. Pull the darn bolt out and cut the damn quill. Get fancy and use a sharpie to draw a line on it. Cut the line. If you can operate a clothing zipper or fry an egg you are qualified to cut a quill.

This is so obvious it doesn't deserve an answer. But YES! You are driving me nuts and it's not eve my thread.

Yes. But bikes with custom modifications are cooler that stockers.

hey i'm a measure 462 times, cut 3 because you still messed it up somehow kind of guy. so i ask a lot of questions.
I should mention that jackets with double zippers frustrate the hell out of me.

:) It's aluminum so the mistakes are easily fixed. Unless you cut it too sort. :p

I've taken two of my quill stems to welding shops to be cut. Took em 5 seconds and didn't even charge me.

Hey Scrod, thanks for the rolling papers and chili mango lolipop. :lol:

Ha! That was all Angie's doing.

:thumb:

Dear scrod,

I am interested in buying a (gasp) geared bike, specifically a soma wolverine. Is this something you could help me out with?

I couldn't find the dealers thread. I thought there used to be a dealer/shop section on the forum, but couldn't find it just now, perhaps i am dumb...

Thanks.

Yeah, email me through the RG site.

Scrod, do you know if this style of RD crank would have the same chain-line as current RD2 cranks?

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2431/3...a0d5f6d9_b.jpg

I've never even seen it before so I have no idea.

Aside from the logo, it looks more like a Sugino XD.

scrod do you have forum peeps do anything special for orders through retrogression or just go ahead and place an order through the site like normal - cause i'm gonna by stuff from you today.

I have a 1971 Raliegh Super Course with the original 5 speed free wheel in the rear. It is worn in the high gear and skips under load. Can I replace it with a 6 speed unit?

Trying to dial in my bars a bit, what is the shallowest drop nitto makes in a standard drop? Just tried out Nitto B105s in 37cm and was debating on M151F in 36cm

Noobish questions as I am just getting into track cycling. All answers are appreciated. I''ve got a 2011 Blue TR250 AL frame (53.5 ST, 55 TT)

1. I assumed it would fit any 700c wheel. When I take off my front Easton EA90 wheel with 25mm Gatorskins off my road bike, the tire basically scrapes the top of the fork, almost like the combination of the wheel and the tire are too large for the track fork. Do I need to get 700c wheelset with smaller tires? 23 or 19 etc? I don't want to use my Eastons, I just wanted to try the fit. Any sub $400 wheel recommendations for track use?

2. Bike came in with DuraAce 7700 octalink BB. As I don't want to spend $400 on FC 7710 Cranks, do I have any other options with this BB? If not, what combination of BB/Cranks would you recommend for beginner track use?

Cheers

If it's a friction shifter, you can probably use a 6-speed freewheel without much fuss.

M151F is the shallowest Nitto makes, but it's a compact drop design.

Just go ahead and place it. Thanks!

1. Gatroskins are taller than many other tires of the same size. You need to use smaller tires, at least in the front.

To recommend a wheelset I'd need to know more details. Areo? Low spoke count? Weight? Etc.

2. The only Octalink track crankset is DA7710. If you're on a budget, can't go wrong with Omniums as long as you know the stock BB isn't going to last forever. It does tend to hold up better on the track than on the street though.

Except that a regular 6-speed freewheel won't fit on a 5-speed wheel with 120mm dropout spacing, which was the standard at that time. It will be necassary to use a narrow spaced freewheel such as a Suntour Ultra 6 and a narrow chain such as a SRAM PC 870 8 speed chain.

Thanks TT. Didn't even think about that!

Silly gears...