Single rear cog, double crank????
#53
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Bikes: Dahon Vitesse D7, Biondi (steel frame, road), Peugeot (80s, road)
I know this is an old thread, but I'm building a double chainring fixed gear myself and I've been pondering a solution to switching chainrings without removing the rear wheel or changing chain length (2 master links) and then I found the following chainstay, hight adjustable pulley (like a springless tensioner) 
So keep the chain (tightly tensioned) on the big chainring and then, when moving it to the small chainring, lift it up on the pulley wheel (remove it from the pulley wheel when on the big chainring).
I will be testing this, but I believe it's possible to do all this using your foot, without dismounting your bike (might need a chainring guide though as I don't believe the foot has the finesse required)
So keep the chain (tightly tensioned) on the big chainring and then, when moving it to the small chainring, lift it up on the pulley wheel (remove it from the pulley wheel when on the big chainring).
I will be testing this, but I believe it's possible to do all this using your foot, without dismounting your bike (might need a chainring guide though as I don't believe the foot has the finesse required)
#56
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Joined: Feb 2017
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Okay. Hear me out:
You will ONLY be in the easy-pedal-gear when you are actually climbing UP hills. The rest of the time you will be I the "standard gear".
Why not just FLIP the HUB and have one small sprocket on one side of the hub (standard gear) and one larger sprocket on the other side of the hub (easy-pedal-gear).
Yes it will take a minute to dismount and quick release hub your rea tire and flip it but why not do this?
I did it and it works great. And I have enough length in my rear wheel drops outs and they are HORIZONTAL so I do not even need a chain tensioner or 2 different chains. One chain works for BOTH sizes of rear sprockets just fine!
You will ONLY be in the easy-pedal-gear when you are actually climbing UP hills. The rest of the time you will be I the "standard gear".
Why not just FLIP the HUB and have one small sprocket on one side of the hub (standard gear) and one larger sprocket on the other side of the hub (easy-pedal-gear).
Yes it will take a minute to dismount and quick release hub your rea tire and flip it but why not do this?
I did it and it works great. And I have enough length in my rear wheel drops outs and they are HORIZONTAL so I do not even need a chain tensioner or 2 different chains. One chain works for BOTH sizes of rear sprockets just fine!
#57
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Joined: Sep 2015
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Bikes: Dahon Vitesse D7, Biondi (steel frame, road), Peugeot (80s, road)
You might want to check out this relatively new technology. It seems to have promise as far as changing gears while riding.
but you need a springloaded chain tensioner to use and FD and that is not possible on a fixed gear, it'll rip it of.Initialy I thought you gave me a link to the Schlumpf 2 speed crankset, which is an option, but expensive
Okay. Hear me out:
You will ONLY be in the easy-pedal-gear when you are actually climbing UP hills. The rest of the time you will be I the "standard gear".
Why not just FLIP the HUB and have one small sprocket on one side of the hub (standard gear) and one larger sprocket on the other side of the hub (easy-pedal-gear).
Yes it will take a minute to dismount and quick release hub your rea tire and flip it but why not do this?
I did it and it works great. And I have enough length in my rear wheel drops outs and they are HORIZONTAL so I do not even need a chain tensioner or 2 different chains. One chain works for BOTH sizes of rear sprockets just fine!
You will ONLY be in the easy-pedal-gear when you are actually climbing UP hills. The rest of the time you will be I the "standard gear".
Why not just FLIP the HUB and have one small sprocket on one side of the hub (standard gear) and one larger sprocket on the other side of the hub (easy-pedal-gear).
Yes it will take a minute to dismount and quick release hub your rea tire and flip it but why not do this?
I did it and it works great. And I have enough length in my rear wheel drops outs and they are HORIZONTAL so I do not even need a chain tensioner or 2 different chains. One chain works for BOTH sizes of rear sprockets just fine!
I am interested though, in what you said regarding the QR, do you use a QR on a fixed gear rear hub? How's it holding out? Have you had any issues?
#58
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Joined: Feb 2017
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I understand your sarcasm
but you need a springloaded chain tensioner to use and FD and that is not possible on a fixed gear, it'll rip it of.
Initialy I thought you gave me a link to the Schlumpf 2 speed crankset, which is an option, but expensive
I know the flip-flop hub is an option, but it's a bother in group rides with people with derailleurs. Also it wears out the drouputs (especialy since it's a conversion to fixed, not a track-specific frame).
I am interested though, in what you said regarding the QR, do you use a QR on a fixed gear rear hub? How's it holding out? Have you had any issues?
but you need a springloaded chain tensioner to use and FD and that is not possible on a fixed gear, it'll rip it of.Initialy I thought you gave me a link to the Schlumpf 2 speed crankset, which is an option, but expensive
I know the flip-flop hub is an option, but it's a bother in group rides with people with derailleurs. Also it wears out the drouputs (especialy since it's a conversion to fixed, not a track-specific frame).
I am interested though, in what you said regarding the QR, do you use a QR on a fixed gear rear hub? How's it holding out? Have you had any issues?
#59
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Joined: Jul 2013
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I don't understand why people are always trying to reinvent the wheel with a single/fixed drive train. The whole point of it is its simplicity and reliability.
#60
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Joined: Feb 2017
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The chain tension that will rip off a derailleur if used with a fixed drive train will also rip off that little chain tensioner you linked to. If you want a variable gear drive train with the convienece of a single/fixed, either get an internally geared hub or crank. Otherwise, just ride it fixed/single. If neither of those work out for you, get a bike with a derailleur drive train.
I don't understand why people are always trying to reinvent the wheel with a single/fixed drive train. The whole point of it is its simplicity and reliability.
I don't understand why people are always trying to reinvent the wheel with a single/fixed drive train. The whole point of it is its simplicity and reliability.
Indeed, I share your befuddlement.
#61
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#62
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Joined: Feb 2017
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I understand your sarcasm
but you need a springloaded chain tensioner to use and FD and that is not possible on a fixed gear, it'll rip it of.
Initialy I thought you gave me a link to the Schlumpf 2 speed crankset, which is an option, but expensive
I know the flip-flop hub is an option, but it's a bother in group rides with people with derailleurs. Also it wears out the drouputs (especialy since it's a conversion to fixed, not a track-specific frame).
I am interested though, in what you said regarding the QR, do you use a QR on a fixed gear rear hub? How's it holding out? Have you had any issues?
but you need a springloaded chain tensioner to use and FD and that is not possible on a fixed gear, it'll rip it of.Initialy I thought you gave me a link to the Schlumpf 2 speed crankset, which is an option, but expensive
I know the flip-flop hub is an option, but it's a bother in group rides with people with derailleurs. Also it wears out the drouputs (especialy since it's a conversion to fixed, not a track-specific frame).
I am interested though, in what you said regarding the QR, do you use a QR on a fixed gear rear hub? How's it holding out? Have you had any issues?
#64
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Joined: Sep 2015
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Bikes: Dahon Vitesse D7, Biondi (steel frame, road), Peugeot (80s, road)
The chain tension that will rip off a derailleur if used with a fixed drive train will also rip off that little chain tensioner you linked to. If you want a variable gear drive train with the convienece of a single/fixed, either get an internally geared hub or crank. Otherwise, just ride it fixed/single. If neither of those work out for you, get a bike with a derailleur drive train.
I don't understand why people are always trying to reinvent the wheel with a single/fixed drive train. The whole point of it is its simplicity and reliability.
I don't understand why people are always trying to reinvent the wheel with a single/fixed drive train. The whole point of it is its simplicity and reliability.
I do not want to reinvent the wheel but to keep simplicity. It seems simpler to have a double crank and a pulley than to flip-flop a wheel.
Unfortunately my fixie conversion project has changed to a restoration. So I won't be able to test my theory.
true. To grow old making money by doing what you love. It's a nice dream
#65
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Joined: Feb 2017
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The pulley I mentioned is not a chain tensioner i.e. it has no spring and no cog, it's just a pulley/chain guide. The chain cannot pull/push it because it has nothing to grab on to.
I do not want to reinvent the wheel but to keep simplicity. It seems simpler to have a double crank and a pulley than to flip-flop a wheel.
Unfortunately my fixie conversion project has changed to a restoration. So I won't be able to test my theory.
true. To grow old making money by doing what you love. It's a nice dream
I do not want to reinvent the wheel but to keep simplicity. It seems simpler to have a double crank and a pulley than to flip-flop a wheel.
Unfortunately my fixie conversion project has changed to a restoration. So I won't be able to test my theory.
true. To grow old making money by doing what you love. It's a nice dreamSo a double crank will require a way to shift (i.e., gearing), thus you introduce a derailleur ....Isn't that a multi-geared bike then with at least one half of the complications of the conventional multispeed bike with a front derailleur and a rear derailer?
#66
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Bikes: Dahon Vitesse D7, Biondi (steel frame, road), Peugeot (80s, road)
No, it's just a double crank and a chain guide (pulley wheel), nothing else requried. It's like your 2 cog setup but without having to remove the wheel to switch between them, no extra tools, no turning screws, no derailleurs, no spliting the chain
#67
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So to switch "gears" you get off the bike and pull on the chain with your fingers to lift it off a setting to change the chain location from one crank (sprocket size) in the front to the other crank (sprocket size) in the front???
#68
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Bikes: Dahon Vitesse D7, Biondi (steel frame, road), Peugeot (80s, road)
Either that or use your foot, while pedaling, without dismounting
#73
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From: Arlington, TX
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#74
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Just get one of these and mount the shifter somewhere discreet.

#75
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