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If I was looking for a distance oriented fixed gear the Steamroller would fall into the category of the Rocky Mountain Burrough... they are both nicely made bicycles with track ends but it makes me wonder why, when a company makes an urban oriented fixed gear bicycle they neglect to do those little things like add braze ons for racks and fenders.
I have a RM Burrough coming in for a refit as it's owner loves it but was a little pissed when he could not fit a rack and equip his bike with panniers... knocking down bigger miles with a backpack is no fun at all. |
@Santaria...why did you pick those 2 frames for big mile rides like you describe?
if you have definitely narrowed your choices to only the ones in your op & if the ability to ever run bigger tires means anything to you, you have to go with the steamroller... |
@the chain tensioner question on my Devil. Last night when I swapped out from 48x18 to 48x16 - I couldn't get the chain tensioner to slip back into the remaining dropout. I'm about 3/32nds of an inch from bottoming out the axle into the back of the dropouts, which is good. I wanted to be able to run the 48x18 on the flip-side because I will be doing some hills at the end of May up near my in-laws.
@Sixty Fiver: That's my current situation actually. I love the Devil frame I currently run which has a geometry somewhere south of the LHT but north of the cross check (for exact info, it's a 700c clone of the 93 XO-1). It's fast with my shakedown ride in the 81GI range pushing 27-and-some-change without even feeling like I was going into Elvis mode. My N+1 moment in this whole thing is that my wife wants me to build her up a touring bike so she can keep up with me. She's convinced me to build up a more "race" oriented bike, which is what I'm looking at the numbers on. I love my Devil, but feel like when I get up at 5 a.m. to go put down a base mile in bibs and a jersey, that I'm dressed wrong for the bike (if that makes any sense at all). M |
Originally Posted by fuji86
(Post 14165259)
Have you fit this particular fellow's body ? Maybe the few degrees or millimeters on any of the dimensions and the Surly is more comfortable for him ? People come in all shapes and sizes. I mean we're talking about an inseam, body torso length, even arm length that varies. And tell me 50-150 mile ride that anyone is going to know the difference on 48/15 gearing ? I mean this is a long trip rider for 50-150 miles, it's not a few hundred or even kilo meter race on a velodrome or even on a rural paved street. I know Retrogression sells the EAI's, but what about the Dodeci Gara, Leader X Pedal Consumption or even a Toyo Godzilla at about the same price to + $ 100 more than a Bareknuckle. I guess you don't sell the Surly, so you're SOL on that sale. But I bet he might not be all that disappointed in the All City for about what he puts into a Surly frame ? Go one further, Bianchi super pista frame runs what and/or plus what the EAI's do too, depending upon where you shop ? All else being equal components wise and he can put a heck of a more comfortable seat under his butt and what is that worth ? Is it the difference in the frame pricing ? Most anything that is transportation is a system of the whole rather than just the frame. I know that you are very knowledgable and I respect that to a certain extent, but with all due respect what level rider is this fellow, maybe his legs and back are going to be screaming for mercy on any of them after riding those distances ?
It may do you a sliver of good to remove your head from your buttocks. |
I feel like I'm the only person on BFSSFG that doesn't like Surly Steamrollers. I mean I'd ride the **** out of one, but I could never envision myself buying one. It also almost seems like you may be better suited with wabi geometry?
I'd buy the BK 9.8 out of 10 times either way and chain tensioners are semi useful but totally unnecessary. infact I notice I spend more time getting my rear wheel in on bikes with them then without them, mainly because I usually overtension it the first go around most of the time and have to readjust. |
Originally Posted by hamfoh
(Post 14165779)
and chain tensioners are semi useful but totally unnecessary. infact I notice I spend more time getting my rear wheel in on bikes with them then without them, mainly because I usually overtension it the first go around most of the time and have to readjust.
On a semi-tangent I do have to thank Scrod, Hairnet, Gig and a few others here for suggesting a bigger GI. http://app.strava.com/rides/7676244 Without fighting the traditional Gulf Breezes (20-25 S/SSE) I figure as I adapt to the bigger gear ratio, I can probably push the Devil over the 30 MPH mark and get my average over 20 miles above the 18 MPH average. |
Originally Posted by TheRealFaux
(Post 14165364)
Umm, no. And riding 48x15 on fat tires is going to suck regardless.
I have ridden centuries on my '55 Lenton with panniers instead of my briefcase and have been exceedingly comfortable and some of that comes from higher volume tyres and a really comfortable saddle. |
I don't think you can win this one dude. The internet is too powerful.
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Originally Posted by fuji86
(Post 14166068)
50-150 mile rides are going to suck on a regular basis unless you do something like this ?
The reality of that distance is that you will be sitting on a skinny seat for hours on end. I'd like to see anyone telling me to get my head out of my @ss to sit in an office chair for 7+ hours (20 mph x 7.5 hours = 150 miles) without getting uncomfortable and squirming in their seat ? Compound that with the fact you have to pedal & propel the bike as opposed to sitting idle. I'll say it, I have a Sports Authority atb that I bet I can be more comfortable on than either of the SS/FG bikes. Nice seat and fat tires, and it's not that appreciably slower for a duration of hours of these longer rides ? tl;dr I have probably one of the top 3 best touring frames made (which is actually a clone of the best); long distance FG racer/trainer. |
Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
(Post 14165736)
Regardless of how tl;dr this post is (and your following one), it has nothing at all to do with the post I was responding to in which you foolishly stated that the BK and Steamroller were essentially the same frame and that you'd choose the Steamroller because of it's "name brand".
It may do you a sliver of good to remove your head from your buttocks. |
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Originally Posted by fuji86
(Post 14166100)
Well if you're going to hold me to what I posted verbatum, both frames are name brand and that was stated. I see little discerning the quality differences that justify paying $ 280 more. Had I reread my post I would have realized I hit the send button before editing that, sometimes that happens. But I still stand that the Surly is the better value 2 name brand frames, regardless of hand built or otherwise, there are some very good to excellent items being manufactured by machines.
Here, let's have a look at it again:
Originally Posted by fuji86
(Post 14164803)
I'd go with the Steamroller because it's essentially the same geometry, cost & quality are similar & is name brand.
I'm not knocking a Steamroller because I think they're great frames - but it seemed like you were trying to put apples and coconuts in the same basket. |
i like coconuts.
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I like whatever the BK is.
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I want a BK now. But I want a keirin frame more.
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BK all the way. NJS is dead.
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No way. Long live NJS. I'm gonna do a "neo NJS" build. It's the future. NJS frame, newer parts, SRAM brake levers, drilled fork. It will make little unicorns cry.
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Originally Posted by fuji86
(Post 14166068)
I'll say it, I have a Sports Authority atb that I bet I can be more comfortable on than either of the SS/FG bikes. Nice seat and fat tires, and it's not that appreciably slower for a duration of hours of these longer rides ?
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Originally Posted by yummygooey
(Post 14167337)
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look at the futuristic microbe-filtering appliance the starter guy is wearing.
The future is now, unfortunately. |
@Santaria...i still do not get why you restricted your choices for a long distance training bike to either a steamroller or bareknuckle, when there are so many other bikes more appropriate for that task
but fwiw... ain't nobody here taking no bareknuckles or big blocks & no njs bikes to places like i ride my steamroller... http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...r/100_4014.jpg anyway...just got back from riding my sr at a local mtb park & all i gotta do is spray it down, change bars, cog, tires & this weekend i'll rundown some blowhard who likes to brag he rides 20+ mph for miles & miles... have fun & good luck in your search for a new bike |
It's funny that winter 2 years ago, I was deciding between the same frames. I had a BK ready to be shipped to me until I got an email that it was "scratched" They sent a pic and it looked more like a scrape/minor dent. They were only willing to give me $40 off so I said screw it i'll get something else, looked on here at the surly thread. I fell in love with the surly bought it and I've never been happier with a bike purchase since I got into riding bikes. The frames a friggin' chameleon and can be whatever you want it to be. My 2 cents i'm not as informed as some of these other dudes.
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http://surlybikes.com/bikes/steamroller
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...rkgeometry.jpg http://www.lfgss.com/thread1175.html Surly Steamroller (56cm): 2010g, fork 916g EAI Bareknuckle (56cm according to will@hubjub): just under 2000g, fork: 900g 26 grams in weight difference. 26 g = 0.057320 lb OR 0 lb and 0.91 oz Geo, the standover height is .838 vs 808, 03 mm that less than 1/8" Top tube length is .003 mm 565 vs 568 seat tube angle and length are identical 73.5 degrees and 56 cm head tube angle is 75 vs 73.5 degrees which seems to be the biggest diference. I addressed the cost difference, that's probably the only real/material inaccuracy in my post. Both are name brand recognition frames. Make whatever you want of it, uglier welds vs prettier cleaned up welds only matter if the frame doesn't adequately support the weight of the rider. I'm going to assume both frames are adequate. |
The steamroller bb drop is 70mm. I was unable to find the BK's bb drop, but I assume it's some where in the sub-60mm range. A Kilo TT has a bb drop of 60mm, and my Rush has a bb drop of 58mm.
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Originally Posted by markaitch
(Post 14168319)
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Originally Posted by markaitch
(Post 14168319)
... all i gotta do is spray it down, change bars, cog, tires & this weekend i'll rundown some blowhard
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Originally Posted by TheRealFaux
(Post 14169911)
The steamroller bb drop is 70mm. I was unable to find the BK's bb drop, but I assume it's some where in the sub-60mm range. A Kilo TT has a bb drop of 60mm, and my Rush has a bb drop of 58mm.
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
(Post 14165397)
It is a deceptively fast bicycle.
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