converting to fixie
#1
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converting to fixie
Hi, im new to this bike world, and i was just trying to get a fixed gear bike, but instead got a wrong one...
so im trying to convert my bike into fixie.
Can you tell me if i should convert it or not? and if so, how or why not? (i.e. the frame's not good for a fixie, etc.)
This is the bike that i got : GT Traffic 5.0
https://bikeshopwarehouse.com/cgi-bin...ails&ProdID=83
so im trying to convert my bike into fixie.
Can you tell me if i should convert it or not? and if so, how or why not? (i.e. the frame's not good for a fixie, etc.)
This is the bike that i got : GT Traffic 5.0
https://bikeshopwarehouse.com/cgi-bin...ails&ProdID=83
#2
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That's a single speed. You need both brakes. If, for some reason, you only wanted one brake it should be the front one. Not the rear.
Since it's a single speed converting to fixed gear may be as simple as removing the freewheel, flipping the wheel around and installing a cog and lockring. What kind of hub does it have in the rear? Does the side that doesn't have the freewheel on it have threads?
Since it's a single speed converting to fixed gear may be as simple as removing the freewheel, flipping the wheel around and installing a cog and lockring. What kind of hub does it have in the rear? Does the side that doesn't have the freewheel on it have threads?
#3
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it says:
Front / Rear Hubs: FRONT: Alloy, bolt on REAR: Alloy for thread on single speed F/W, bolt-on axle
Oh and front brake had some small screw missing and kept on touching the wheel, so i just took it off.
So IF i convert it to fixie, i might take that off too.
Front / Rear Hubs: FRONT: Alloy, bolt on REAR: Alloy for thread on single speed F/W, bolt-on axle
Oh and front brake had some small screw missing and kept on touching the wheel, so i just took it off.
So IF i convert it to fixie, i might take that off too.
#4
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That's a single speed. You need both brakes. If, for some reason, you only wanted one brake it should be the front one. Not the rear.
Since it's a single speed converting to fixed gear may be as simple as removing the freewheel, flipping the wheel around and installing a cog and lockring. What kind of hub does it have in the rear? Does the side that doesn't have the freewheel on it have threads?
Since it's a single speed converting to fixed gear may be as simple as removing the freewheel, flipping the wheel around and installing a cog and lockring. What kind of hub does it have in the rear? Does the side that doesn't have the freewheel on it have threads?
Front / Rear Hubs: FRONT: Alloy, bolt on REAR: Alloy for thread on single speed F/W, bolt-on axle
Oh and front brake had some small screw missing and kept on touching the wheel, so i just took it off.
So IF i convert it to fixie, i might take that off too.
#8
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So if i convert my bike to fixed gear, would my bike (mostly frame) look good??
#9
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You will just need a new rear wheel. You can get one for a decent price on eBay or VeloMine. You'll also need a cog and a lockring.
Now, you can just remove the freewheel from your current wheel and mount a cog. This is not recommended but has historical precedent. In this instance you will most likely rotafix the cog in place using loctite and make sure to mount both brakes. Get some foot retention and use both brakes to stop and you will most likely be fine.*
*I would not recommend it.
One more thing. That frame is generally accepted as a ladies style frame. So I hope you're either a girl or have the swag to pull off riding a girls bike.
Now, you can just remove the freewheel from your current wheel and mount a cog. This is not recommended but has historical precedent. In this instance you will most likely rotafix the cog in place using loctite and make sure to mount both brakes. Get some foot retention and use both brakes to stop and you will most likely be fine.*
I don't even use a lock ring to hold the sprocket, I think they are more dangerous than they're worth. I'd rather have the rear sprocket unthread on a descent than to have the chain get trapped and have the rear wheel lock up because the sprocket won't unthread. I raced track for 35 years and never used a lock ring and never had any problems. As long as you tighten the sprocket with a chain tool, it will stay on as long as you don't do a stupid skid stop. Not using a lock ring lets you use the older threaded road hubs.
One more thing. That frame is generally accepted as a ladies style frame. So I hope you're either a girl or have the swag to pull off riding a girls bike.
Last edited by Spoonrobot; 05-07-12 at 09:33 PM.
#10
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You will just need a new rear wheel. You can get one for a decent price on eBay or VeloMine. You'll also need a cog and a lockring.
Now, you can just remove the freewheel from your current wheel and mount a cog. This is not recommended but has historical precedent. In this instance you will most likely rotafix the cog in place using loctite and make sure to mount both brakes. Get some foot retention and use both brakes to stop and you will most likely be fine.*
*I would not recommend it.
One more thing. That frame is generally accepted as a ladies style frame. So I hope you're either a girl or have the swag to pull off riding a girls bike.
Now, you can just remove the freewheel from your current wheel and mount a cog. This is not recommended but has historical precedent. In this instance you will most likely rotafix the cog in place using loctite and make sure to mount both brakes. Get some foot retention and use both brakes to stop and you will most likely be fine.*
*I would not recommend it.
One more thing. That frame is generally accepted as a ladies style frame. So I hope you're either a girl or have the swag to pull off riding a girls bike.
and some people asked me about that too. If its girls bike. But no its no, I heard its too big to be girls bike. But why is it seen is girls bike??
#11
its not too big to be a girls bike. its the design of the frame. the toptube isnt straight. its essentially a stepthrough design. size can vary its all about the design. and more than likely it's a female's bike
#12
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https://www.gtbicycles.com/2012/bikes/urban/city
here all the urban bikes are like that.
#13
no that's not because its an urban bike. do you see how in the link you posted, he top tube meets towards the seatclamp? your toptube is much lower than that. regardless of you trying to defend your bike, it is what it is
#14
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Oh ****, i just realized it... i got ripped off then. This is why people've been telling me not to trust ghetto websites... i knew my toptube was too low but didnt know it was lower than the one online. i just complained to the website, but i doubt they'll do anything about it...
#15
sell it and save up for something else. as much as people will sometimes disagree with bikesdirect.com they will more than likely suggest something from that website. So just ride that thing for now and save up.
#16
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Man... or do you recommend just getting a new "men's" frame and changing parts?
#17
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From: Newark, Bay Area, CA
Bikes: 49cm Pake Steel Track 2010
No, because the parts on your current bike aren't all that great, IMHO. And plus, if you're going to buy another frame (I would assume new), buying a whole new bike from BikesDirect.com would only be a little more cash.
Just get a new bike.
For as little cash as possible, and since you want an "urban" city bike for commuting, I would recommend:
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/sst_steel.htm (front and rear brakes)
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm (free rear brakes)
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...essenger_x.htm (front and rear brakes)
or even
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ift2_track.htm if you want aluminum + carbon fiber fork (front and rear brakes)
Even though the components on these bikes probably all that great either, I feel like they would still be better than the GT's components for some reason.
Just get a new bike.
For as little cash as possible, and since you want an "urban" city bike for commuting, I would recommend:
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/sst_steel.htm (front and rear brakes)
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm (free rear brakes)
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...essenger_x.htm (front and rear brakes)
or even
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ift2_track.htm if you want aluminum + carbon fiber fork (front and rear brakes)
Even though the components on these bikes probably all that great either, I feel like they would still be better than the GT's components for some reason.
Last edited by PeDDeR27; 05-08-12 at 01:04 AM.
#18
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 588
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From: A1A
^^^wtf is wrong with you bikedirect fanbois? your evangelical zeal is getting out of hand...bikeshopwarehouse is just another of the many alternative sites operated by bd.
the op clearly does not know anything about bikes & yet you recommend that he buy another mail order bike? from the same parent company that shafted him by sending a female bike that is not shown in the listing? the bike he got is the traffic 5.0 gtw, which is the wsd version of traffic 5.0.
k21rr...is the link you provided for the bike you ordered accurate? are you sure that is the one you ordered? if so, raise a stink with bikeshopwarehouse about receiving the wrong bike. you did not purchase a women's bike - demand they take it back.
then go shopping locally & find a fully assembled bike that you can look at in person & test ride before buying. after you learn something about "fixies" you might consider buying a bike online.
good luck...
the op clearly does not know anything about bikes & yet you recommend that he buy another mail order bike? from the same parent company that shafted him by sending a female bike that is not shown in the listing? the bike he got is the traffic 5.0 gtw, which is the wsd version of traffic 5.0.
k21rr...is the link you provided for the bike you ordered accurate? are you sure that is the one you ordered? if so, raise a stink with bikeshopwarehouse about receiving the wrong bike. you did not purchase a women's bike - demand they take it back.
then go shopping locally & find a fully assembled bike that you can look at in person & test ride before buying. after you learn something about "fixies" you might consider buying a bike online.
good luck...
#20
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 418
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From: Newark, Bay Area, CA
Bikes: 49cm Pake Steel Track 2010
This is one of the only times I have suggested BikesDirect. The only reason is that he bought a low cost bike in the first place, and since he wants to buy another one, I'm assuming he doesn't want to spend much again. BikesDirect has decent bikes at a good cost, and everyone here seems to agree.
Of course going to a shop would be the better way to go, but usually that means spending a lot more money.
Of course going to a shop would be the better way to go, but usually that means spending a lot more money.
#21
My non-cyclist friend went to a local bike shop and the cheapest bicycle he saw was priced at $500 and he was "blown away" by such a high price. I sent him to craigslist, but told him that he will most likely end up with either garbage or be ripped off... like this custome $480 kilo tt with a bell... https://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/bik/2937168259.html
#23
You gonna eat that?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,917
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From: Fort Worth, Texas Church of Hopeful Uncertainty
Bikes: 1966 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist, 1973 Schwinn Varsity, 1983 Raleigh Marathon, 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS
What's the big deal? Lots of people call them fixies and you know exactly what it means, right? So what's the issue?
#24
#25
I almost find it derogatory. Racial slurs for bikes man.






