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Originally Posted by dirtydan
check the angle of your saddle.
Thanks for ze help |
Let me give my experience...
I rode a multigear bike with a cheap plastic covered soft plastic saddle (stock Bontranger saddle that comes on Lemond bikes) Never had a ball or other groin area issue. I always wear bike shorts and keep things out of the way. I switched to a fixed gear with a 20yr old Brooks saddle that I had broken in. Soon developed a very painful ball - this is not numbness, not bloodflow issue - shooting pains up into my abdomen. Didn't notice it on bike, but it got worse a couple hours after riding. Went away after 2-3days of no riding or riding the other bike. Went to Dr. got a full exam, ultrasound, etc. No problems at all. Dr. actually said (after tests done) not to worry and explained about the specific region that is very prone to creating pain from physical stresses/impacts. Got a new Brooks, kept riding, took some 2wk breaks. Pain never came back But just this week its back in full force. Yikes. Bottom line is that it is in my estimation cause by some blow from some bump you hit and just didn't get out of saddle enough for. A Brooks won't solve it, bike shorts won't. Time away from the saddle will heal it, but carelessness on a bump can bring it back. Also do get tested to rule out any more serious issues. Al |
Originally Posted by BIGPAKO
What should the angle be? I too am getting some pain in general Groin area. My saddle (Specialzed toupe 143) is pointed a tad downward. Is that wrong?
Thanks for ze help Ideally ze angle should be level - as in level with the ground, use a carpenter's level if you have/want to ..... some people put the nose (front) down to keep seat away from nether regions; others like to lower the seat a tad and angle nose up - the former will put a lot of weight and strain on hands, wrists and arms; the latter will crush the life outta the boys unless you like sitting pretty straight up. My 2 cents - start with level, which is easy enough to do by eye, and then do a LITTLE up/down adjustment till you get it right (for you). For me, this is more or less level, with saddles that have a nice 'dip' in the middle - I've used cut-out models that were okay too. And remember - this will all vary from bike to bike, if you change your seat's height or fore/aft position, or do anything to alter them - different shoes, stem, shorts, etc. Carry a hex key, wrench, etc and don't be afraid to tweak on the go. |
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