Well price that is personal to my situation anyway, I am sure you could do it for a lot less, or a lot more, just depends on what you want. For me though...



1988 Schwinn World Sport – Free for my 13th birthday – Luckily my parents had the foresight to get a frame that was too big for me at the time.
Velocity Deep V black rims fixed gear track wheelset MACHINED w/ Formula hubs (rear is flip flop) = $159.00
Track Cog 18t x 3/32 Hardened Steel = $19.00
KMC 1/8" Z410 track fixed gear chain 112 links BLUE = $10.00
Shimano SF-1200 20t Single Speed Freewheel 1/8" = $22.00
Formula lockring for track fixed gear hubs = $7.00
Michelin City Tire x 2 = $50
Tube x 2 = $12
Origin-8 Bullhorn Handlebars = $30
Rim Strips x 2 - $5
Bontrager inform RL saddle = $15 from LBS bargain bin
Shorter stack bolts to use with single chain wheel = $6
Used pedals / toe clips / straps - $12 (which I used the toe clips and straps with the stock peddles)
Grand total as the bike sits = $347

So the question becomes, do I have a bike that is as nice as a new one that I could just go out and buy for $350? I don’t really know the answer to that, but if not, pretty close. Definitely one with more character, IMHO at least. I also know that I have learned a ton about fixed gears in the process of the conversion, which is worth something in and of itself.

Handlebars have not arrived yet, but I will post pics when they are installed. I’ll need some bar tape when I pick them up (hopefully Friday), so my total will increase by $10 or so.

Many thanks to the forum, it would have been tougher without this place (and Sheldon Brown).

That's interesting. Post pics plz.

But the free frame/fork/bb/crank/headset/brakes/stem/seatpost really skew any comparison. I think it's about equal to what you'd be able to get from BD. But the BD bike has the advantage of being new and available in different sizes and colors.

I'd have just bought a new rear wheel for $80.

Mine was:

1974 Koko Sport 3000 Superbike, complete original except no seatpost.
$30

New rear flip flop hub & tire
$100

17T cog & lockring
$30

Seatpost(the continuing bane of my existence!)
$20

Red chain(old one was stretched, why not go colorful?)
$10

Above costs just to get it rideable fixed!

Then I bought:

Mustache handlebars
$25

Brooks plump leather washer grips
$90

Brooks B17 saddle
$75

Brooks Milbrook saddle bag
$85

New helmet to go with retro build
$25

Emergency roadside junk
$40

I suppose this is the part where I say the ride is priceless....
While it is my favorite bike for the fact I did the conversion completely myself and it is exactly how I want it, I know exactly how much it cost. My hubby reminds me often!

Could I have/you have purchased a "better bike" for the same amount of cash? Absolutely. Would I love it as much? Doubtful.
Do you like yours? That is all that matters really. I have spent better money on pretty crap, but do I have it anymore? No because it didn't trip my light fantastic.

Here's mine:

Frame/Fork/Headset (Tenax Schwinn Super Sport): $113
Crankset/BB (EighthInch): $67
Wheelset/rimtape (SunCR18/Formula): $137
Cog (All-City): $20
Tires (Paselas): $43
Chain: $7
Bartape: $10
Seatpost: $14
Handlebars: $15
Stem: $15
Brake levers (Shimano BLR400): $35
Caliper (Tektro R350): $24
Saddle (Specialized Riva): $40
Pedals (MKS Stream): $30
Tubes: $6

$600ish

I wouldn't do it again (KiloTT) but I'm extremely happy with the result and the process. It was a lot of fun planning all the parts and putting it all together.

I would go for a kilo tt... prebuilt is the way to go for entry/ toe dippers. Conversions are usually done economically when you/ friends have the parts laying around and the technical knowhow around a bike to cover labor... If I put up a laundry list of one of my bikes, you would think I am nuts to sink that much $ in a FG...

I could take my conversion and add together the price of the parts on it, most of them bought used from CL, ebay, or local co-ops. That would be one thing.

But to be fair I also need to include the stuff that I bought that did not use. So, I would have to include the used bottom bracket that had rough bearings, or the stem that was too short, or the brakes that were missing the cable stop ferrules, or the brake pads that I thought I would need eventually but did not use before I took the specific brake off of the bike.

Share it.

I spent an additional $70-$80 on parts that didn't work or were misrepresented by the seller when I got them used but I managed to recoup most of that by reselling the ones that didn't work and scrapping the damaged parts.

Yeah the whole "got a bike for free" bit changes everything. If I got a free bike I would have spent a lot less on a bike too.

Your $347 bike could be $550-$650 or more.

ride the bike, wait for a cheap wheelset to appear on craigslist, then do this.

if you can get a wheelset with tires, cog, lockring already on it, you could save a lot of money because then the only thing you have to buy is chainring bolts and a chain.

edit: You already did this, most people would have bought a Kilo TT but I am a fan of putting together your own bike, even if its with cheap parts.

You replaced a lot more than was necessary just to convert it to a FG/SS. Which is fine, and I do it too, but the discussion is better framed as "I spent $350 to customize my bike, how did I do?"

P.S. I would budget a little to have a trusted shop go over those wheels and make sure they're true and tensioned properly.

+1
I've not built a bike from scratch, but there are few components I have not replaced or disassembled myself. You become one with the bike. You get to know the bike intimately. Adds enjoyment to your riding no doubt.

It's like the difference between a guy who built his scrappy Harley Davidson from scratch versus the businessman who bought his and knows jack **** about it. Who's gonna win in a fight? Yeah that's what I thought.

Like^^^^

This is true, it did replace a lot more than necessary, but I wanted a nice fixed gear, not just a crappy old bike with one gear.

And I am not an expert, but the wheels seem to be true and tight. Seems like the guys at Velo Mine do a pretty good job with them. They put in some spacers to get the rear hub to 125mm and installed the fixed cog for me. I have since bought a lock ring wrench so I can make sure the lock ring is tight and change the cog if I want.
I am still trying to figure out my preferred shop, there are 4 or 5 in town, and I have bought a little from each, seeing who I like. Once I figure it out, maybe I'll take them in just to have them take a look. The wheels on my mt bike should really be trued too anyway.

Here it is so far, I'll update as more happens to it.