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Aargh... Broken chainwhip...

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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Aargh... Broken chainwhip...

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Old 01-16-05 | 12:42 PM
  #26  
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From: Sci-Fi Wasabi

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Originally Posted by andygates
Works perfectly for me too, always has. This method has never failed:

1) Grease the threads on the hub, lockring and sprocket.
2) Spin on the sprocket and stomp the pedal a couple of times.
3) Spin on the lockring and tap it tight.
4) Ride the sprocket on hard.
5) Wow, the lockring's loose after that, so tighten it hard - I use a hammer and flat screwdriver.

Job done, forget about it until you decide to strip or change cogs. Now have a beer.
That's pretty much what I did. I always use grease, not locktight... That's probably why after I cleaned some of the road grit, all of my threads were still shiny and new looking. I wouldn't use a hammer and screwdriver, though. My Hozan lockring tool does the job just fine, and doesn't mangle the ring...
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Old 01-16-05 | 02:08 PM
  #27  
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From: pdx, or

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Originally Posted by BostonFixed
Just spin the cog on by hand as tight as possible, and then ride slowly around, with hardly any pressure. You just have to ride up your street, or around the block really slowly, and use your front brake to stop.
A cog gets really tight after a little bit of riding. Riding the bike is a much better way of tightening the cog than a chainwhip.
so could you get a cog off by removing the lockring and spinning the cranks backward?
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Old 01-16-05 | 02:11 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by spindle
so could you get a cog off by removing the lockring and spinning the cranks backward?
With a lot of force, yes. Like the method previously suggested. Put the rear wheel against a wall, align the cranks so you can stand one foot on one, and bounce on that crank arm. This will remove the cog, as long as the lockring is off...
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Old 01-16-05 | 03:06 PM
  #29  
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From: L.A.
Slacking the chain against the BB and wrapping it (like in the link posted) works the best of all the methods in my experience.

You can use a master link as the first link in a chain tool, I do.

I built this out of some bar stock
https://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/jtrain/ChainWhip.JPG

My server blows so if for some reason the link does not load just hit the reload button and the image should come up.
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Old 01-16-05 | 03:16 PM
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if you use the method of yarding on the wheel with the chain wrapped you get two advantages over standing on the pedals.

Your gearing is setup for speed not torque so the advantage is actually to the cog not to your lever arm (crank arms). if you are pulling on a 700C wheel then you have a leaver arm of about 8 to 1 over the cog.

In addition there is no "flex" in the above method, whereas when you stand on the pedals there is "flex" in the movement of the bike and other factors.

Milo
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Old 01-17-05 | 10:53 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by riderx
Are you not using a lockring? Otherwise, how is it spinning off?
I was using a little to narrow cog, so it got loose to the point where it met the lockring.
I didn't have a spacer at that time, which i have now. But the only way i could get it tight enough was with a whip..

I can strip the treads on a hub using a whip, you wont ever be able to do that using the cranks as a leaver.

Come on, there must be some science geek out there, that can do a little math on it, and tell everyone i'm right?
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Old 01-17-05 | 12:26 PM
  #32  
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Wait, I thought that because of the gearing on the bike, you get less torque and more speed at the rear cog/wheel than at the chainring. Also, the chainwhip I used was a lot longer than a bicycle crank, meaning more leverage. I think this is why I haven't been able to spin the cog off while skidding, even without a lockring.

But what do I know, I was a philosophy major.
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